unclerichy

@David55wrong thread? And FWIW I've still not tried LC and my TMC is, obviously, still non-functional 🙂

I've occasionally priced up the closest spec to my 2016 L&K for fun and it's a similarly crazy increase. You can't even get the tv tuner any more (it came as standard on mine) - how do people cope with their pauper spec L&Ks? 😁

Presumably that's why there are no longer any traffic reports listed on my 2016 Columbus. Glad it's not just me 🙂

😦

Nice. They remind me of the ones on my Mk I Leon Cupra. So many spokes and I hated cleaning them 😀

Washed it for the first time since last year - I do few miles so it doesn't get that dirty. Please ignore the paint swirl marks, the whiteworm on the alloys and the bent chrome strip on the rear door. It is 7 years old after all 🙂 Of course I polished up the exhaust tips.

Bosch R2543 I bought mine from Amazon - Bosch R2543 - Cabin Filter activated-carbon : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

After another low mileage year (3500 this time) it's been serviced, MOT'd and taxed today (it's only money after all 😐) No misting DCC shocks on this year's advisory (it was on the previous two years) though corroded upper front springs and crap rear discs make their third 3rd appearance.

I've just had my MOT (7 year old car) and after two years of misting appearing as a warning this year no mention of it. I asked the technician (as it was being serviced at the same time) and he said they'd have cleaned the shocks last year to monitor them and no sign of it coming back. Go figure 🤔

Ask yer nan to knit a replacement 🥲

Cleaned my iffy ignition switch after I almost couldn't stop the car engine this morning. Quite easy once you know how I've also added more pictures to the original thread.

10 months later and I sat in a car park this morning and had problems stopping the engine so when I got home it was time to give it a go... Thanks to all that provided photos and tips so far - I've taken a few more to fill in any gaps. First of all this is the (blurred) view from underneath the steering column showing the torx screw to undo Once that's done drop the steering column to the lowest possible position and pull out the wheel as close to yourself as possible. Leave the adjustment leaver down otherwise it gets in the way later... Now pull the top cover towards you a little until you can grasp it and then lever it up out of the way. I didn't try detaching it at the back and just propped it up. At this point I started the engine when I realised I had to turn the wheel. First of all I turned the wheel a quarter turn left so that I could get to the left-hand screw. This is quite fiddly to extract once loose as there's not quite enough room to get the screw out without tilting it sideways and I lost it into the bottom case. Turn the wheel to the right to access the other screw and repeat. Strangely I found the access to the screw uneven as if the shroud wasn't symmetrical. At this point the lower shroud can be gently wiggle downwards - don't pull it too much as the wires are (obviously) attached to the stop/start button. I found that carefully rotating the shroud around gave me better access to the connectors. The aerial connector has a clip that needs pressing in with a small screwdriver in order for it to be disconnected. The switch connector clip sits under the red arrow - press this down towards the front of the switch with a small screwdriver and gently pull the wire connector in the direction of the yellow arrow. At this point I took the shroud into the house to continue, To remove the switch from the shroud insert a small screwdriver down the side of the two metal clips and press the clips in. I found that I could do one clip at a time by gently holding the switch to one side. Then push the switch out from behind. (No picture for this one) The metal clips need removing from the switch. They have small locking tabs in the middle that need levering out a little. I used a screwdriver in the hole at the top of the clip to push it out. You may want to stab yourself in the hand with said screwdriver whilst undertaking the manoeuvre... As others have noted the label needs peeling back a little to reveal the fourth plastic locking tab. I also used a couple of pins to hold two of the tabs open whilst popping out the other two. At this point I stabbed myself with the pins and the switch fell apart. With the top removed and the components recovered the switch should look like this - note orientation of the circuit board. When disassembled (and kept in the same orientation) it looks like this: I found that the metal contacts on the circuit board were clean and the dirt was on the blue contact pads in the rubber. I used isopropyl alcohol on a cotton bud to clean all the parts. Reassembling the switch is the reverse of the above though note that once the metal clips are in place the locking tabs will need pushing back into position again. Once the switch is back in the lower shroud and connected back up it's just a case of jiggling to have it fit around the stalks. Though there appear to be clips at the back of it they don't seem to engage with anything. With the engine on again the two screws next to the steering wheel can be reinserted. They have captive nuts behind them and I needed to wiggle to line them up. To fit the top shroud look closely at the back - the two circled areas have a hook on the bottom shroud that act like hinges when clipping the top back in. This then helps line everything up to be clipped back together and the lower torx screw to be put back. My ignition button is like new again.

Check the two stickies on this thread and follow the one for your respective head unit -> Skoda Audio, Electronics and Security - BRISKODA. A particularly helpful chap (@MartiniB) digs out the direct link to the downloadable zip files when they're available. I've updated mine (also a 2016 car) a few times over the last couple of years at zero cost.

Well there's something for me to look forward to 😐 I was meaning miles driven in the last few years not mpg - that's actually improved since I replaced the (dead) battery a year ago.

My last two MOTs had advisories for front shock misting. When I booked in for this year's service and MOT I asked about the likelihood of it failing this year. Chap told me that they failed DCC VAG cars left right and centre a few years ago but a change in wording lets them just pass with an advisory. Misting is common and he'd only fail them if oil was dribbling out. My car is coming up to 7 years old with 33k on clock as my mileage has dropped significantly over last 3 years.

Mine still hasn't learned not to change up to 5th just before I reach the end of the short 30 stretch on the back road road into my village as it then has to drop down immediately as I floor it into the NSL windy bits

This Christmas I have mainly been collecting up old kit I've built for family over the years and they're now all in my office being parted out. It's a shame how little some of them are worth compared to how much they cost new. I've also pared down my home kit recently to try and cut down electricity usage so it's of no use to me. Left to right: Current home Hyper-V server (NAS, router, other stuff) (hidden at the back) a Lenovo i5 that my daughter had from her old office before they closed down. That's been upgraded to a better CPU and more RAM Intel Q6600 in a purple Chieftec Dragon case. I forgot how much the old Chieftec cases weighed as they're made from really thick steel My old Intel I7-920 (very expensive at the time - the Noctua heatsink alone was £70+. Now nobody wants to buy it for pennies 😐) AMD Phenom II 940 Pentium 4 2.8 in another weighty Antec/Chieftec case. That still had Vista on it Sadly most of this will end up at the tip unless I can flog it on fleabay/Facespace What's interesting is how compute power has increased whilst power usage has decreased - the old P4 is about 65W - the same as my current AMD 3700X which is light years ahead. The i7 is 130W!

How dare you! 🤨 😆

I went through my home office and placed a lot of it on eBay a couple of months ago. Surprisingly I got over £40 for a set of 3 old CPUs (a P60, AMD 486 DX2 equivalent and a Pentium III). I also sold a couple of Matrox Millenium graphics cards which were still working happily and a bunch of original PC games on CD. Trying to install XP and legacy drivers on modern-ish hardware to check the cards were working was fun 🤔

Cool story bro

When I become ruler of the universe this will become punishable by instant death 😒

I refer you to my winky face (so to speak) 🙂

I always put new tyres on the nearside and the older ones on the offside. Gives me more grip on roundabouts you see 😉

I had to run a tank of 95 when the shortages a few months ago meant that Tesco didn't have 99. Hard to be 100% certain it wasn't psychological but the car didn't feel 'right' to me either - especially climbing up a particular hill that I often drive up. I'm now using CostCo's premium stuff which is 97RON and it seems happy with that - no noticeable loss in feel nor change in consumption and this morning it was only 157.7.

Ooof, I feel your pain. Had to do that during the recent petrol 'crisis' when Tesco ran out of '99 😒 I filled up with 59.68 litres of CostCo 97 RON this morning (162.9/ltr). I'm hardly driving these days so this is the first time I've filled up for two months.