MikeTheThinker

Hopefully not "The Eye of Sauron" ...

You might find this parts catalogue page (2004 Octavia mk1 headlamp control) helpful also: https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/ALL/OCT/252/9/941/941025 This one shows all the vehicles sharing the same part - in this case the control arm 1J0941285C https://www.lllparts.co.uk/product/1j0941285c/linkage-for-headlight-range-control-1j0941285c FYI this is the catalogue page for a 2007 mk2 Octy and the front levelling system is clearly different to your mk1. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/ALL/OCT/419/9/941/941025

Sensor here: https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/1u0907503a-xenon-headlamp-level-adjustment-sensor-europen-union-oe-producer-53304.html Haven't found a linkage as yet; could the existing one be rescued? As regards sensors, the levelling system works by reading both front and rear axles to establish the car's level and then adjusts the headlamp level accordingly.

What is your engine code? Also, are you looking for front or rear level sensors?

A quick Google{tm} search lists several supposed sources and equivalents. Autodoc looks hopeful, claiming a replacement part number: https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/1t0907503

I did a quick calculation of the amount I'm paying in VED for a 2007 2l Octavia versus my annual mileage as a retiree. VED is £238 IIRC and I drive about 6k miles/year, so my mileage cost is 23800/6000 == 3.97 ~ 4p/mile, so slightly higher than the budget rate for EVs at 3p/mile.

That seems a bit high; try these guys - at least to get a competitive price : https://hindleyclutchspecialists.co.uk/

If it's the same as the Octavia it disables the interior alarm sensors until you next relock the car.

Where was the windmill shot taken?

As an afterthought they could call the electric version TEVR and use the strapline "Clever TEVR". I'll get my coat ...

I understood they were using a fablon-like metallised paper - peel and stick.

Good for local jobs if they keep the factory open here.

Have a word with @Breezy_Pete , one of our forum members who also fixes window mechanisms. His work is good and affordable.

Couple of points: 1) does your commute involve any pollution control zones? If it does you'll need a compliant vehicle (at least Euro 5 IIRC). 2) Facelift for Octy 2 was 2008-onwards, with a little blurring depending on which parts bin was closest to the production line :)

After tracking down an intermittent traction alert on my MY07 Scout we found the problem is a faulty pump on the Haldex unit. I did a lot of web trawling and eventually found one on aliexpress.com for just over 50 squid - a far better result than Mr VAG's several hundred pounds and a long wait! The question; other than not being able to use 4WD is there any harm in holding off replacing the pump? It's a messy job involving a ramp and raising the rear axle so ideally I'd like to wait until the car is booked in for a cambelt/pump next year. Answers on a postcard :)

Was the hum at road speed or engine speed? If road speed suspect a (probably) rear wheel bearing.

I had literally just finished typing a similar note and was going to post it - but someone beat me to it! :)

An info dump that may help: From Mr Google's AI but makes sense on read through. Note use of chassis number for insurance. "Yes, you are permitted to drive an unregistered vehicle to and from a pre-booked Individual Vehicle Approval (IVA) test, provided the vehicle is insured for the journey and you carry proof of the appointment. You don't need a MOT for this journey, but the vehicle must only be used for this purpose and for any necessary trips to a garage for remedial work following a failed test. What you need to do: Get insurance: Ensure you have specific insurance cover for the journey to and from the IVA test centre, which can often be arranged using the vehicle's chassis number. Book the IVA test: You must have a pre-booked IVA test appointment. Keep proof of the appointment: Carry a copy of your test appointment with you in case you are stopped by the police. Travel directly to and from the test: The legal permission to drive the unregistered vehicle only extends to the journey to the test center and back to your home, or directly to a garage for repairs after a failure. No MOT required for the journey: You do not need a valid MOT certificate for this specific journey to the IVA test. Also might be worth a butcher's at kit car fora as builders will have to deal with similar circumstances.

From Fleet News: "Chinese car brands registered more than 43,500 units in August – a 121% year-on-year increase and more than the individual volumes recorded by several major European brands. Sales data from Jato Dynamics show that combined registrations of Chinese car brands last month were higher than those of Audi (41,300 units) and Renault (37,800 units). Although registrations by Chinese car brands comprise 40 different brands, the top five players – MG, BYD, Jaecoo, Omoda, Leapmotor – account for 84% of the total. By brand, MG registered more new cars than both Tesla and Fiat last month, BYD was ahead of Suzuki and Jeep, and Jaecoo and Omoda outsold brands including Alfa Romeo and Mitsubishi." Chinese car brands outsell Audi...Chinese car brands outsell Audi and Renault in EuropeChinese car brands registered more than 43,500 units in August – a 121% year-on-year increase.

What might the "dangly" bits be?

Just noticed how appropriate the sun band is for this shot; excellent :)

Have a close look at the cover plate for a part number. That will make it much easier to find a replacement part.

Depending on the depth of the impact you will be looking at either outer skin damage (headlamp, bumper, possibly wing) or - if deeper - the assortment of bracketry that links the chassis to the skin. You haven't given the model year of your car so I've attached parts diagrams from LLLParts for the bumper and wing for a 2010 facelift mk2 Octy to give you an idea. It won't be possible to make an accurate assessment of damage until the damaged outer skin elements are removed. BTW there are plenty of facelift mk2 Octys on offer from breakers.

And then you run the risk of the rest of the car looking faded and drab. Spray with caution ...

There is a known weakness in the door harness that passes through the A pillar -it gets bent and straightened a lot as the door is used and individual wires can break, especially in older cars when the insulation hardens and can crack. To inspect this you need to pull back the rubber protective sleeve where the harness goes into the A pillar and gently pick apart the bundled cables, checking each one for cracks and possibly breaks. I thought I had a relevant wiring diagram to offer but unfortunately it seems I do not. I suggest a forum search for more information, as this is a well-known issue.