MikeTheThinker

My Scout's due next month @ 18yo and 170k miles. Fingers crossed!

Perhaps you should change your moniker to "Heiniken_Pete" - reaches the parts other mechanics do not reach :)

There should be a button low down on the driver's side B pillar (between the front and rear doors). If you press this before locking the car it will disable the internal alarm sensors until the car is next unlocked. Doing that will stop most 'thermal settling' car alarm incidents.

Still an open issue. @Gaz very kindly loaned me a spare SLR & lens to let me decide if I could use that format going forward, but unfortunately it's still in its bag as there has been much "real life" to contend with recently.

To my knowledge there are two types of resistor fitted to a 2011 Octy - a standard unit for manual controls and an extended unit for electronic controls. The two types are visually very different and can be seen in the parts catalogue pages below. 2011 Octy mk2 manual control heating system - see #11 2011 Octy mk2 electronic control heating system - see #2

Hot air gun.

Good to see a real red as opposed to a red/grey hybrid.

Says "video is private"?

You can buy new badges on AliExpress, plus a quick strip and repaint= new-looking hub centres :)

I think you need part #4 on this catalogue page: https://www.lllparts.co.uk/product/1z0601149/hub-cap-1z0601149 Note; the picture matches but it is shown against a different wheel. A quick fleabay for 1z0601149 brings up a number of options.

I see the water's a bit cloudy :)

A true inheritor of the "BUFF" appellation ...

"You're never alone with a clone" :)

I was given a 'rule of thumb' budget estimate recently for simple panel repair and respray; the panel in question had some small dents but no buckles and no corrosion. The estimate was £300 per panel. There are roughly 10 panels on an Octy so 10 x £300 less 20%(?) for doing them all at once? You might be better off looking for another Octy and selling this one on.

1. Liverpool – one in 210 drivers banned (3,154 people) 2. Bradford – one in 210 drivers banned (2,159 people) 3. Teesside – one in 213 drivers banned (2,207 people) 4. Llandudno – 1 in 244 drivers banned (1,737 people) 5. Wakefield – 1 in 248 drivers banned (1,691 people) 6. Blackburn – 1 in 251 drivers banned (1,577 people) 7. Leeds – 1 in 253 drivers banned (2,457 people) 8. Oldham – 1 in 254 drivers banned (1,470 people) 9. Sunderland – 1 in 255 drivers banned (713 people) 10. Halifax – 1 in 264 drivers banned (485 people) https://www.lancs.live/news/lancashire-news/town-lancashire-one-uks-worst-31495233

From Fleet News this morning: "Non-compliant brake fluid warning after stock still available A second safety warning has been issued for a non-compliant brake fluid that could impact stopping distances and degrade braking systems. The warning was issued by the Verification of Lubricant Specifications (VLS) after stock of Mannol Brake Fluid DOT 4 3002 was found to be still available and still non-compliant. In December 2023, VLS received a complaint claiming that the product failed in critical performance areas required for safe brake operation. " https://www.fleetnews.co.uk/news/non-complaint-brake-fluid-warning-after-stock-still-available?gutid=6419

You're right, of course. I was in the middle of doing something else and flashed on problems I used to have with the Citroens we had for some years.

Power steering fluid?

Before you abandon her have a word with a local body shop. There's nothing structural at risk behind the dents so they may be able to pull it straight and make it up. The insurers should offer you a retention price to keep the car they would write off; seems to run from 1/3 to 1/4 of the write-off offer.

Have you considered fitting higher wattage headlamp bulbs? I upgraded my mk1 to 100W with new bulbs and the headlamps worked really well without untoward beam scatter. Even Mr MoT passed the car several years running without query. https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005007488689896.html

Excellent budgie pics, Gromit :)

More 'kinell than Grinall ...

Bonnet pull is in the driver's footwell on both pre and post FL. Caution; ensure the pull is straight back/up from the footwell as pulling to the side may leave you with a piece of plastic in your paw and no bonnet release!

I've just had a look at the wiring diagrams from Mr Haynes fine manual (!) and note that all the courtesy lights are on the same power feed, so if the cabin interior lights are OK the problem is downstream. Can you check the feed wire to one of the boot lights? It should be Red/Brown and with the interior lights on (to show power is getting there from the control relay) you should show 12v to earth. If that's OK, try earthing the earth side of the interior light. If it lights your problem is downstream wiring to the switch, the switch or the switch earth. If no light, the bulb or the light fitting are faulty. I'll ferret a bit more later to see if there's anything helpful regarding the reversing sensors.

The flickering tail lights as reported earlier do strongly suggest an electrical problem of some sort.