Everything posted by MikeTheThinker
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This is a suspicion, but I've noted elsewhere that CANBUS-related fails often appear shortly after the device in question appears to operate OK, and my assumption is the direct connect circuit/s work ok on switch-on but whatever CANBUS test protocol the car computer is running eventually times out, the unit is flagged as 'failed' and the computer disables the power feed. A good case in example is the classic sidelight failure, where the car OKs the sidelight on switch on but some indeterminate time later flags it up as 'failing', only for the apparent problem to disappear again after an ignition reset. Such faults are often caused by poor connections which lead to a sensed high resistance via CANBUS resulting in failure. What to do about this? Check and clean all relevant connections - starting with the device in question and working back 'upstream'. You can do a quick 'earth quality' check using a decent multimeter but are earth connections are repeated through the car this test may not be reliable. Once connections are checked and cleaned, dose with an appropriate electrical contact spray - not WD40 - and close up as appropriate.
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Just FYI normally the nozzles are colour-coded to the fuel - black for diesel, green for petrol and sometimes red for high-octane petrol.
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The Engine Management Computer adjusts the fuel/air ratio depending on a number of factors including engine and ambient temperatures, throttle position etc. It will richen the mixture for cold starts and running, then weaken it as things warm up, so maybe there is something in that to consider?
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Some advice, please, regarding a replacement digi camera. I had until recently (it's just been burgled) a Canon T70 film camera and assorted lenses but it got set aside as I spent more time on two wheels and needed a 'pocketable' digi camera for convenience. Both are now history. I'm looking at relatively current digi (doesn't need to be new) and something which will give me an equivalent to the 35-70 lens I liked on the Canon. I have no aspirations to being a 'proper photographer' but would like more control of my image framing, composition and exposure than I can get via a phone camera. BTW I'm still using a Samsung S10 which is pretty good but relatively ancient. As a pensioner with two houses in need of fettling before I can liberate any funds from them I'm look for cheap to reasonable. Any recommendations out there?
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I suggest a post on the diagnostics forum to see if someone near you can help. I have VCDS here but I'm on the wrong side of the Pennines for you :) https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/
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From the list of available models HERE there is no Fabia2 included for 2007. Closest would appear to be a Chinese build Fabia 2 for 2008 HERE which also lists hex head bolts. The earliest listing for Fabia2 is 2009 HERE but which also shows both lock types and again hex head bolts. For further information I suggest you contact a dealer and ask them for the part details you seek.
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According to the parts catalogue HERE there are two variants of lock; manual and central locking. See item #8. The bolts are listed as M8x22 hex socket head, not torx. See item 9.
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Do tell where you found them, please :)
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Just waiting on the trouts' evening rise ...
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T'was a dark and stormy night, and the Captain said to his mate ...
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http://igorweb.org/equidec.aspx
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My bad; I read the detail from the post but forgot the header. All the bumper options for a 2003 Euro Octy1 are listed HERE. Some details of PR codes may be needed. Also, checking on the damage part should give a part number. In either case the OP can then search on the correct part number - either at somewhere like skoda-parts.com or elsewhere closer to home as available.
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The parts catalogue pages for a 2012 1Z Euro Octy saloon are HERE and the estate HERE. The two covers are completely different so whilst it might be possible to retrofit an estate cover to a saloon I don't believe it would be able to completely cover the load area due to the different body shapes.
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Saloon or estate?
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Driver's side: Pax side: I also note your car is standing a lot higher off the wheel than mine. Both my front shocks were replaced last Summer with the correct part numbers. Edit: just a thought; what size are your wheels? They look to be smaller than my 17s.
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Interesting. My PR codes do not include headlamp levelling, although the facility is both present and working. Full list of my PR codes FYI: 1AT = Electronic stabilization program (ESP) 1D0 = Without trailer hitch 1KF = Disc brakes, rear 1N3 = Speed-related variable steering assist (Servotronic) 1NL = Covers for alloy wheels 2UB = Rough-road design 3FA = Without roof insert (standard roof) 3GA = Without cargo area - added later by CH (original owner) 3L3 = Manual height adjustment for front seats 3NW = Rear seat bench/backrest, split folding with center armrest 3QT = 3-point seat belts with tensioner and height adjustment, front 3S2 = Black roof rails 4A0 = Without seat heater 4K3 = Radio remote controlled central locking operated from inside and safe securing 4R4 = Power windows with comfort operation and circuit breaker 4UF = Drivers and front passenger air bag with front passenger air bag deactivation 4X3 = Side air bag front with curtain air bag 5RV = Right exterior mirror: aspherical 5SJ = Left exterior mirror: convex 6FB = Body-colored exterior mirror housings 6Y0 = Without cruise control warning system 7A2 = CD changer 7AH = Electronic vehicle immobilization device with alarm system, passenger compartment control and backup horn 7GG = Emission standard EU4 DPF 7P4 = Manually adjustable lumbar support in front seats 7Q0 = Without navigation device 7X1 = Park distance control 8GU = Alternator 140 A 8L3 = Roof antenna 8QL = Key for locking system with remote control 8RM = 8 speakers (passive) 8WR = Front fog lights 8X1 = Headlight washer system 8YH = Radio, version 1 9AK = Climatronic with impact pressure control free of cfc 9P1 = Seat belt reminder, electric contact in buckle 9W0 = W/o car phone preparation/installation B09 = Type approval Great Britain and Northern Ireland E0A = No special edition F0A = No special purpose vehicle, standard equipment G07 = Front shock absorption HW6 = Tires 225/50 R17 94W J0L = Battery 340 A (70 Ah) L66 = Suspension range 66 installation control only, no requirement forecast QG1 = Service interval prolongation QN1 = Drawer under left front seat
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Yes to your supposition about valid dates. Scouts were all (I believe) fitted with HID headlamps along with headlamp washers and levellers.
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I'll take a piccy of my '07 Scout front wheel arch tomorrow so you can compare. Mine doesn't wobble. As regards commonality of suspension components there are different entries for saloon, estate, Scout, RS and so on but you can look at the parts catalogue entries HERE for info. The Option Code (PR Code) for my Scout is 2UB, so the page for that is HERE. You can confirm your own Option Codes on the information sticker either in your service book or under the boot mat near the spare wheel well. There's a site which will decode the Codes for you HERE. One possible useless thought; I had a similar problem with our old Mk1 estate which ultimately turned out to be a front wheel bearing - even though there was no noise and no excess shake at the wheel rim.
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I owe you an apology; I didn't note you were writing from Slovenia. One of the best Skoda parts sellers is in Czech; skoda-parts.com. They list a new bumper for around 90 Euro, but you would have to arrange your own carrier. https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/1u0807221k-front-bumper-china-23708.html
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Or try searching using part number 1u0807221k,
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1333728579
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I believe that's referred to as a "Code Brown" moment ...
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I can't speak to the general case but in the two wheel bearing rumble incidents I've had on Octy 2s there was significant rumble present but no detectable shake at the rim when lifted off ground.
