MikeTheThinker

You have to watch out for those killer skips. They hide in trees and only leap out behind you when they see you reversing ...

Once upon a time known as 'common courtesy'. Very sadly missed ...

If you want to explore the detail you can see the parts catalogue for a 2004 1Z mk2 Octy HERE. You'll need to navigate through the options for the relevant page/s for your motor. An alternative is to go look at the autodoc.com site and search there. This usually brings up a number of options and often tells you the part numbers.

I originally asked if he could just fit an extended piece of flexi hose to replace the corroded piece but was firmly informed this would be a BAD IDEA. Reasons given were 1) too much flexi hose makes the brakes feel 'soggy', 2) flexi hose is much more prone to road debris damage, 3) he felt there could be a chafing issue with the flexi against the chassis and 4) wasn't sure if such a fix would be MoT-permissible. I don't know if the current MoT rules would argue against the cut-and-insert approach; hopefully someone on the forum with current MoT experience can comment. FYI my mk1 was an '03 also - YH53 GCK in magic black. Quite sorry to see it finally go. We shared a lot of good times around Lancashire and beyond - as also did our son-in-law. Note: I have an assortment of mk1 bits to pass on so keep an eye on the for sale/ for free sections over the next couple of months.

There was a similar issue on my mk1 Octy estate for the first MoT after I got it (2012 IIRC). Our Indy suggested fitting an insert piece in place of the corroded pipe sections, which he then did and the MoT passed with no problems. The car itself continued on to our son in law and has just been finally laid to rest with over 270,000 miles and still running fine, let down sadly by chassis corrosion.

Very Mary Poppins :)

The parts catalogue entry for a 2007 Fabia mk1 with power steering is HERE. I believe the parts you are seeking are #20 & #24.

Take a look at the parts catalogue for the front bumper for your car HERE. Item #5 is the part you are looking for, but check you have the correct side as the part numbers are slightly different. You also need to pick the correct colour part number. A fleabay search produces a number of options, depending on your colour.

Morning Nigel It looks like your car is a very early mk2 Octy - is that correct? You can check by looking at the VIN positions 7&8. 1Z is a mk2, 1U is a mk1. This does matter as the bumpers are different between the mk1 and mk2.

Anything elastic in the hydraulic path from brake pedal to caliper piston can cause sponginess. If the elastic element is pressurised by action of the brake pedal the pressure will continue to act on the system - including the calipers - when the pedal pressure is released. Think of blowing up a balloon. I cannot recall now whether the dual brake system is parallelled off the back of the master cylinder or downstream but both sides share the same pressure - there is only one master cylinder with shared dual lines and IIRC no non-return valves in the brake lines. This means that a pressure anomaly anywhere in the braking system would be felt by all the brake elements. Just FYI I had a complete brake failure on my mk1 at one point, fortunately only at walking pace in a Morrisons' car park. Turned out the master cylinder seal has failed which allowed the brakes to pump our fluid from both circuits as I pumped the pedal looking for some stoppage. Officially this is not supposed to happen with a dual braking system - but it did :(

At first look I'd suggest you either have trapped air or spongy flex hoses.

Unlike here, where it's persisting down ...

It's due late August but I'm going for a month early as it better fits the logistics ('er indoors finishes school for the Summer so can taxi me). 23rd July so fingers well crossed.

Thanks again, Ryan. Daughter & son-in-law well pleased.

I enjoyed a LR offroad day at Solihull some years back, and unless they've dumbed it down a lot do prepare yourself for a challenging - but exciting and educational - day in the wilds :)

Have a look at part #20 HERE. If you can decipher the colour codes you'll get a part number. Do you have a copy of the data sticker anywhere? Usually in the service book or stuck to the body near the spare wheel well. Said sticker would show you your option codes which would help decipher the parts catalogue entries.

Lots on offer on t'web in general plus fleabay and aliexpress. Need to know the car model year and interior colour to advise better.

My Scout's due next month @ 18yo and 170k miles. Fingers crossed!

Perhaps you should change your moniker to "Heiniken_Pete" - reaches the parts other mechanics do not reach :)

There should be a button low down on the driver's side B pillar (between the front and rear doors). If you press this before locking the car it will disable the internal alarm sensors until the car is next unlocked. Doing that will stop most 'thermal settling' car alarm incidents.

Still an open issue. @Gaz very kindly loaned me a spare SLR & lens to let me decide if I could use that format going forward, but unfortunately it's still in its bag as there has been much "real life" to contend with recently.

To my knowledge there are two types of resistor fitted to a 2011 Octy - a standard unit for manual controls and an extended unit for electronic controls. The two types are visually very different and can be seen in the parts catalogue pages below. 2011 Octy mk2 manual control heating system - see #11 2011 Octy mk2 electronic control heating system - see #2

Hot air gun.

Good to see a real red as opposed to a red/grey hybrid.

Says "video is private"?