Frenchtone

Fitted, a Bosch variety, and a 2 mile run has proved the sensor was the problem! A little advice if anyone has the same problem, opt for a genuine Bosch piece - 4 or 5 years ago i tried one of the cheap chinese jobs ---- it didn't work, A friend confirmed their operating characteristics cover a different range, be warned!

I should have said that eventually the abs and the traction control lights were also illuminated, found the sensor so today's task!

The prob appears to be the front offside abs sensor, of which i have one in my garage, just need to find and fit it!

So, had the battery on slow charge for 18-19 hours, Disconnected and fired the car up all warning lights cleared, I have to go out latr, about a 25 mile trip so that should give me an idea if it was just battery base, also a chum is coming round later this morning torun a vcds trial. Will keep you all updated!

Ok, so yesterday whilst returning home said light came on, it was amber coloured, it eventually went, but returned sparodically. Is there a power steering oil top -up point somewheer or is it likely to be something else, I cannot find any references on here. The car has covered 109k and is a deisel 140 Thanks in advance Tony S

Could be an ABS wheel speed sensor! when problematic the car goes in to limp mode!

Tried that, no joy! However had a poke around in the hole in the back card and yes opened the door, checked its operation and it worked, Have squirted some ptfe lube into it, it now works fine! Maybe caused by carrying 2 x new tyres in the boot area which might have put pressure on the door card and hence a little strain on the lock mechanism thus causing my problem!!

Hi all, I know this has been covered numerous times, but I cannot look for the topic, I am away from home so no computer access. The rear door has first stage released but when i press the button on the door I can hear the second stage release actuating and then cancelling. What di I need to do to open the door and any links to solutions on here please

Yes! Should clear within about half a mile.

^ Yeap, sorry about that --- tired after a morning log splitting and stacking!! :-(

Living in France I still use Michelin Sport SP01's, I have gone from 50 profiles to 55 profiles and yes, I think the ride is a little softer but then again French roads are kept in better condition than are uk roads

Look at your local diy store get a half threaded one, cut off the hex head et voila'probably cheaper than elsewhere, mine works a treat! ;-)

Not very, a runout of the Mk 1, a silver and black 4 x 4 Adventure model, 104k miles, some niggling probs but generally well pleased with it!

Here in mmy part of France garages will replace bulbs for free(job for the apprentice) Do they do the same in the UK?

ABS wheel sensor perhapd?

yes dental floss is good - thats what i used now you have mentioned it!

You could also try thin cord, introduced at the top of the badge and pulled downwards with a slight sawing motion, --- it worked on the rear badge of my Yeti!

A failed ABS wheel speed sensor perhaps?

Perhaps different rules here a la frog!

Ok found my problem, a loose front (uk) n/s wheel, changed by local Profil tyre depot as I have another set of wheels, 2 of which are being reshod by said outfit! A lesson to be learned here, after work like above I will now always check the wheel nuts, And , an interesting conversation with the depot manager to be had monday when I collect the 2 wheels. It's quite frightening when the above situation arises and the possible consequences that could have arisen!!

Got the clamp off and went up to the village, no noise so must have been that -- seriously though did go up the village and yes it was silent, cannot look under the car my trolley jack is bust, a chum has promised a pair of ramps for the weekend!

As previously no noise when the engine is 'pulling' only whencoating or rolling at a non changing speed I now have the tyres, they will be fitted in the near future, as above I will check the propshaft tomorrow!

No, t's a RHD but the fuse board is upside down in the end of the dash panel, took out fuse 16 a 10amp red job, ESC lit up on dash after initial checks, VCDS also showed a problem, replaced fuse and back to normal! Hence my assumption it is a mech prob. I will take the car down to the soft surfaced car park and give the accelerator some welly, done this before to prove the 4 wheel drive is working. Ok, just done the initial take up, and yes 4 x small piles of disturbed parking surface so I assume the the haldex etc is working as it should! My only other thoughts are -- is it the antivibration joints on the front / rear prop shaft? I cannot look under at the moment, my trolley jack has lost some oil, and, a buddy will eventually arrive with some EP90, my usual top up oil! Then I'll have a look under the car at the shaft etc. The car is 11 years old with 100k on the clock, the rear joint was replaced about 3 - 4 years ago.

The problem appears to be mechanical, after removal of the Haldex fuse the clonk persisted -- where now?

(Try disconnecting the wiring connector from the Haldex controller and see if the clonking stops.) Ok, to disconnect the haldex, is the connector at the rear. ie on the haldex unit or somewhere else?