MarkyG82

@Carlston Does the 150 scout not have 55mm shocks? A thought it went with 4x4 too.

So I have started a thread over on SpeakEV and the information is confusing to say the least. Current Ts&Cs available online suggest the 5 years and 100k for first owner. But here are documents out there that show the 8 years 100k with no mention of first owner. Without doing any further digging my best guess is that VAG changed the terms at a milestone in their program. Probably either when Skoda jumped on the PHEV bandwagon in 2021 or when the ID3 came out (2021?).

@RootedYou have too much time on your hands That's very interesting and makes me want to dig out the equivalent VW doc as I'm not in doubt on my cover. Far too late now as I've had the car for over 3 years and it's 5 years old. Still good to know where I stand. Edit: That didn't take long to find and confirmed that It's first owner only for VW too. Can only assume it's the same across the VAG brands. Very disappointed and I'll be sharing the info with the EV forum I'm on.

A warranty is a type of insurance and as @J.R. eluded to, they will try to get out of paying for anything. Take a look at your paperwork and see what the deal is. You may get a better result from an auto electrician. A boot switch/button sees hard use so can fail and should be an easy fix. The cutch issue sounds more in depth.

Just because he has 4wd he needs scout suspension? OP if the shock diameter is right the vrs parts should work*. Just bear in mind that vrs springs are slightly lowered compared to stock height. If it's better performance parts you want maybe consider bilstein B6. They are stock height but the same damping as the B8 sports shock. * There's 2 sizes. 50mm and 55mm. That's the diameter at the lower end of the shock where it joins the hub carrier. You should be able to get access to measure it if you turn the steering to full lock.

That must be a Skoda thing because my warranty is definitely live.

@Monmouthshire That 91% doesn't mean a lot. Is that 91% of the original useable capacity or 91% of the total capacity. If "original useable" then the result is based on what's written down as the spec, which the car was unlikely to achieve when new. So if you take the actual useable capacity when new at 96% of spec, then 91 after 3 years is probably within the scope of wear. It will likely drop faster in the first few months then settle before a gradual decline. All that being said, if it's 91% of actual capacity then there is no issue at all as that is roughly the useable capacity anyway. For peace of mind, there is a warranty on the battery that exceeds the rest of the car so any issue will be sorted by Skoda usually with a new battery.

Most superbs have a good level of standard kit so you may find something you like in any model. L&K have the highest spec. They all have independent rear suspension where as your octavia has torsion beam rear. The superb should be more compliant but comfort is subjective so worth a drive to find out. There are other changes (like vehicle weight) that may affect the comfort more than the suspension design. Tax is all the same for cars from April 2017 with the extra luxury car tax added for years 2 to 6 for cars over £40k RRP. A highly specced superb could exceed that. You have to balance the additional cost of tax against the additional cost of maintenance for an older vehicle. My car is currently £170/ year which is standard for hybrids. £180 for petrols/diesels. The variety of tax rates only applies to the first year the car is registered.

On the face of it I would agree and many have not had issues. I used the granny cable for the first 2-3 months before I got a wall point installed and didn't have any problems. However, my original statement stands and I recommend to avoid putting a constant load of such high levels on standard home electrics. Unless the sockets has been installed for that specific purpose. Just because it works now does not mean it will continue to work. Like anything mechanical, electrics do wear and a slight deformity can cause a big issue if put under long term load.

One specific scenario is when it has just gone to hybrid and the engine is in a warm up phase. It will not allow ev only mode but should allow all other engine based modes. You can try this theory out by switching to hybrid while moving so the engine starts, then switching back to EV immediately. It should prevent it. There will be other times based on power demand and maybe even operating/ambient temperatures. The car turning itself back to ev mode may be linked to your internal satnav as it has a smart system that aims to use the modes to best effect based on the journey entered. If not using the satnav then I would suggest it's an issue to raise with the dealer.

I'd advise doing some research into this as pulling the required current for prolonged periods can put strain on your house electric installation. There is quite a risk of fire if not done correctly. If you have had a plug installed for this task then please ignore me.

@Rooted Rating aside, yes they are certainly capable in winter and massively out perform "summer" tyres in such conditions. But those who have compared them to equivalent quality winter tyre (of the like we get in the UK) they are not quite as good. My comment on the "winter rated"ness was misplaced and was aimed at the capability rather than what's written on them. I know you have a fair bit experience with various tyres so I'll leave it there.

I'd be surprised if you got anywhere near 55k with either of those. Although not fully winter rated they are still softer than a typical touring tyre so will wear a bit quicker. Mine (cross climates) have done a good few thousand and i've not been disappointed. Though they do wear faster in summer.

The main battery has a buffer top and bottom. So it is more protected from over/under charging than many others. It's also a water cooled system so more thermally stable. As above though they are affected by ambient temperature. My Passat is the older setup with a slightly smaller battery and get just under 20 miles in winter and can just pip 30 in summer. That's with 24 on the car readout after charge in winter and 28 in summer. I also managed over 2000 miles without putting more petrol in last summer. The 12v battery charges from the DC-DC system whenever the ignition is on. They are heaving on the 12v system if not used. With it sat for that long it will struggle hence the new battery. The longest I've left mine is a week and not had an issue at nearly 6 years old.

Can recommend both those tyres so I'd go with whichever you can get the better deal on. As a side comment, you mention only doing the front. It's not advisable having different tyre types across the car. It's also advisable to have the best tyres on the rear should there be a difference in tread depth. Plenty info online (particularly "tyre reviews" YouTube channel) if you want to know why.

Have you had an update? Maybe it's broken something. Not uncommon with software based stuff.

It will be something to do with the locations maybe. Have you set them to do different things? Reminds me I need to set my home one to only work when plugged in.

Do a search for diesel overheating. Loads of info on it. The end result will usually be a new water pump and most people do the cambelt too.

2.0 TDI by any chance?

Passat gte here. Very happy with it and get about 17 miles range this time of year. About 26 in the summer with AC. Can pip 30 if I turn off AC. The batteries in phevs or EVs are affected loads by temperature. Mine is the older version with the smaller battery though. I wouldn't worry about battery degradation. They are quite good with an invisible buffer top and bottom and water cooled. No issues with charging to 100% every day. I would definitely recommend a wall box. Faster charging and much much safer. 3 pin sockets are not designed to supply 10A for hours at a time every day. Ok for just starting out or emergency. The drive is refined but not neck wrenching (unless you tune it). Very practical but you lose the variable boot floor although still have about half the storage under it. So no spare wheel. Otherwise it's standard Skoda Superb.

Dragging this up as I'm still not happy with my Konis. Trying to work out what the most cost effective way of swapping the shocks over is and whether it would be worth it before the special actives are shot. They are around 2 1/2 years old and I've never been happy with them. I have Eibach pro springs and a rear uprated roll bar. The final result would be basically the same setup as my octavia had but IRS. Has anyone here made the jump from SA to B6 and how are you going with it?

Get what you can from them towards this genuine service and double check with them that the reminder is reset. After that, vote with your feet and don't ever go there again.

Personally I would be nervous with that use profile. Leeds once a week no probs. Once a month is a little risky unless you get the dpf properly looked at and know the condition. That is me though as I went from a 2014 Octavia TDI to a Passat gte and wish I had gone for petrol sooner after 11 years of diesels.

VCDS minimum. If you have the ability and knowledge to look at a DPF and know what a good one looks like compared to a clogged one...... I'm yet to be convinced of the success of a cleaning process so I would be budgeting for a replacement at some point. Given the high mileage per year of the car it could well be ok. Do you know why the car is available? What are your usage plans for the car? Long runs every weekend or will it be the school run? If the school run I'd be looking at petrol and not even entertaining the idea of a diesel.

Do you have battery charge mode? That should put the most stress on the exhaust creating the relevant conditions for a good regen. Obviously you need space in the battery or it wont run as much. TBH I'm surprised it has a GPF given how they are designed be able to run on the electric or having the engine cut out when going along. Does the skoda have the equivalent of GTE mode? On my Passat this is similar in function to hybrid (obviously more powerful) but the engine doesn't cut out when over about 50mph. Might be a better option for longer journeys to avoid this in the future?