MarkyG82

Not a good idea to mix tyre types (it's unclear if that's what you are talking about re. all seasons). Different grip levels front to back is asking for trouble. Also not a good idea to mix sizes front to back as the ABS (and associated safety systems) will not function correctly.

As per above, go with genuine as filtering the air is more important than nay additional flow you may get from some other thing. Diesels do not gain from a performance filter unless you are tuning massively and have uprated pretty much everything on the rest of the engine, fuel system, etc. I think even modern petrol engines gain only a small amount due to the turbo and electronics controlling the output.

The 1.6 is a fairly low power engine. And the S3 is a fairly large car. I note that you are in Cornwall. Could suffer a bit on those steep hills you have. If you desperately need a diesel I'd be looking at the 2.0 if possible. If not then the 2.0 petrol is a very good engine. That all being said it sounds like you have found a reasonable car. As long as it's not a dsg you could do worse.

A lot of people with this platform complain of the reduction of braking as slow. This is the regenerative braking rolling off which starts at 10mph I think. Then completely off at 5mph. It takes some getting used to especially if you are a gentle braker like me. Your issue may not be this but I thought I'd add it anyway.

WD40 is a water dispersant (hence the WD in the name). If you have a hair dryer, or workshop blower, have a go at blowing it out after using WD. Then apply some silicone spray as, hopefully, a longer term fix. I would expect the WD to help but not in the long term.

Have a go with some spray on the plunger. Silicone is probably best to avoid deteriorating any seals etc. There's been reports of the same on other forums about the Passat. Some find a spray/clean fixes it. Others get it fixed, usually on warranty.

Sounds like there is an issue with the backend somewhere which is causing the wrong data to be displayed. The fact you are being charged the correct amount shows you are receiving the correct amount and that they are controlling it correctly. I would report it as a bug and keep an eye on it.

But how are those measured? What physical equipment is installed to assess the power passing through your granny cable? If those are figures from the app then is that talking to your car or via a smart plug? Does it have a more detailed view than a simple total figure, like a start end end time and rate during that time?

Assuming the turbo actuator was actually faulty, you now have a new one. Good. Mechanic is struggling to code/adapt it. An ECU doesn't just stop outputting like that. If you are having trouble getting signal to the actuator, it is more likely external to the ECU with cable damage from corrosion or animals. I would be tracing the wiring rather than messing with a new ECU. More often than not, faults like this are based on a simple issue like a hose or wire.

Sounds like something is set up wrong with the charger wiring maybe. A CT clamp in the wrong place or configured wrong. Just seen your reply above and that you are using a granny cable. It's worth you having a look on various forums on the benefits of using a wall box and the safety issues over using a granny cable. That aside it may well be some preconditioning set wrong in the car that is constantly drawing from the grid. Do you have anything you can look at the power consumption with to see when that power is being used? 78kw seems quite a lot. That's the most our box can supply for 11 hours straight!! Are you sure it's not 78kw over a week or more?

What Dave said. It's hard to get concrete info on it but essentially SUK have removed the 5 year recommendation and have even started suggesting 140k miles as the interval. Depending on your appetite for risk and the costs (quotes vary massively) I intend to get mine done around 100k which at current usage will make it 8 yrs old.

Shirley the calibration is done on the system and not the shocks themselves? I definitely seen reports (on here?) of DCC cal being done with VCDS. Could be a placebo.

In general, a FDSH is just a record of what has been done and not necessarily a record of what should have been done. It may well have been looked after correctly and a good read of the history should show that. If you are looking at "stage 99" then maybe taking it to a good place that looks after tuned cars and get them to check it over is a good idea. Stuff like compression testing and the health of the turbo is a good start. Alongside new plugs, fluids (oil and coolant) and filters should see you on your way to understanding the state of the motor and how much boost it is likely to take. Otherwise, a quality map with some well thought out handling mods could get you to a proper enjoyable point. Don't forget the brakes too.

What root is getting at is did you make sure the general health of the car was good before loading the map in? To add to the questions, what did they do (if any) in the way of checking codes before and after and also checking the emissions? A high power map for £250 is questionable when most known tuners are charging £400+. We aren't trying to put the tuner/map down, just trying to make sure you aren't about to blow your engine. As always though, best to go back to the tuner with any issues.

Can't do it that way due to what you may have in the boot.

The vectors should be able to cope with a bit of wet. They could be worn or they could just be a bit wider than you are used to.

On my Passat I need to set a departure time AND set the low tariff time. I have the low tariff timer set to finish after my departure time, otherwise it uses battery to condition the car rather than mains. It means you use peak rate for that bit, but it's never been more than 0.5kw for me and I find it's worth the cost.

That message you received is really useful info. thanks!! It's only been info passed on by users up to now.

Have you asked @pab567? He really will be able to help. There is probably coding required before you can use it and he can help with that.

Assuming the existing parts are worn, new shocks will improve the ride. Fitting weak shocks (what you might call soft) will likely ruin the ballance and could well make it worse. If your car has done a decent amount of miles then replacing with new should be enough.

The terminology I used is the adopted naming convention in this forum and also many other places. It comes from the standard 1 or 2 din fitting head units as that is the size of the mib units. Most aftermarket head units have the control input/output part built in to the din section. Mib units do not, hence the naming above. Also above is mentioned pab. He is the guru with this stuff and should be able to pick out the part numbers you need.

You talk about the screen as the head unit. It's just a screen. The glovebox unit is the head unit and that is the Columbus part.

On pure android it's been built in for a number of years.

Sounds like a cable is the next thing to try then. Keep us posted.

This is a contradiction. With AA built in there is no app to open. I'm not criticising. Just trying to understand the issue so we can better help solve.