MarkyG82

Try going into connection settings and look for cable data connection or something similar. Sounds like you have it set to power only. Often a notification pops up when connecting a cable (generally, not just for AA)

Clear the Bluetooth connection too. Don't connect via Bluetooth at all and just connect the phone. It should trigger AA and pop up on the phone to complete the setup. I'm surprised the S20 has the separate app and not built in. It's a modern enough phone for that.

Have now got Koni Special Active on my passat and had Bilstein B6 on my octavia. I'll be going for B6 next time round. The Konis are just not supportive enough even with lowering springs.

That crack looks like it could be the paint peeling on the drive shaft? Maybe? The shocks are bilstein B4 which are like for like replacement for stock. Some say they are stiffer. I suspect that added stiffness is down to replacing old worn shocks with quality new ones. You could benefit from new front ones depending on how old the rears are.

I had this on my mk2 octavia. Never came out completely unfortunately. I learned to ignore it eventually. Tried all sorts of things. Didn't occur to me that the dash around might be faded. Would explain alot.

This is why I stick around this forum despite not having owned a Skoda for nearly 3 years!

I had this with my octavia and managed to limp about like you. Eventually went to an old school key cutter (not timpsons etc) and they sorted me our for something like £50. Looking at yours mine was actually broken across the weak point next to the text. There was a pin that you had to remove and the blade came out, or whatever was left of it. Looks like yours is broken further into the key? Still worth taking to a place though. The immobiliser in my key was in the fob and not the blade. I had to turn the blade in the lock with my leatherman and hold the metal broken bit in the key against the handle of the tool to make the connection.

If planning on towing (instead of bike transport) then definitely get factory wiring and coding if you can. It integrates with the stability system and alters the way the car responds under extreme moves. Big safety plus.

I'm a little confused about what the discussion is. I thought one of the features of eco mode is the coasting. Are there some cars that don't do it?

Sounds like a diesel isn't the right choice.

Leaky intercooler pipe?

Been trying to dig about for this info. Local dealer not helpful. Trying to find out if this applies to the hybrid drivetrain (modified 1.4tsi). Mine is 5 years old pretty much now.

Could well be the reddit users are intentionally winding you up or are just the usual reddit level of intelligence. I don't get flashed for it much but I do experience the "phenomenon" often enough.

In what way are they testing the battery to determine it's "healthy"? A battery charging correctly on 13.6+ volts or sitting there with 12.something volts when not under load is not a response. When it does crank, does it turn over well or does it labour a bit? Original battery? Probably 10 years old if it was installed in the car a few months after manufacture. Used with stop/start then sat during covid.....

The suspension parts I fitted to my Passat were listed as compatible with some specs of superb so my suggestion is they will fit. The plug for the DCC will need double checking. Maybe get a photo from the seller and climb under your car with your phone and look at the side by side. Springs can be swapped so that's covered. The damping will likely be much firmer than what you have now but should be able to tweak it with vcds to what you like. They'll need setting up anyway probably. Don't underestimate the change in firmness though. Going from worn stock to (nearly) new coilovers will be quite a change.

I second toots theory on TDI's. Most who get diesels don't need a diesel and are potentially going to suffer with dpf issues. For your commute you may well get good economy but the added cost of diesel, the extra burn to warm up and the added fuel use for dpf burn.... I'd be looking at the 1.4 TSI. It's a peach of an engine and should get similar running costs to the 1.6 if driven right.

Yes. I think nearly all VAG (VW, Skoda, Seat, Audi) auto boxes are dsg. They are dual clutch type that preselect gears and change for you. You no control over the clutch but can have control over the gear if desired.

The 2.0 is the same engine as the vrs. Vrs has a bigger turbo and injectors I think. Otherwise it's the same so reliability and servicing is the same. The 2.0 dsg is a wet clutch version (dq250) and is known for its reliability. The 1.6 dsg is the dry clutch version (dq200) and has a worse history although can be reliable. Manual boxes don't get the discussion attention. Can only assume they are reliable.

Could also have done all it's mileage pre COVID and only done short trips for the last 3 years. Wild assumption time: had it not been used at the weekend the mileage equates to roughly 48 miles a day. You'd expect that sort of usage to be acceptable for dpf maintenance. I think there is still something potentially awry and a dig into the numbers might point a knowledgeable mechanic in the right direction.

@Dean17 I would take it to someone you trust with the gear (e.g. vcds) to look at the readouts. I think there are pressure sensors either side of the dpf. The dop in pressure should be within a certain range (needs looking up). If it's too high then it's probably blocked. My guess is the car was sold as the previous owner knew it was coming up to dpf replacement time.

So not especially low mileage for the age. I would follow @paulski's advice initially. Maybe turn stop/start off for a bit to ensure it keeps the hot flow through the system. And maybe some good fuel, but this not necessarily confirmed to help. If it keeps regenning more than you expect then a further investigation onto the state of the dpf is probably required. As far as I've seen no generic additives can unblock a DPF. To do that you need to remove it or replace it.

What's the age and mileage?

Unfortunately we need to keep on about this as many people don't realise the difference between "Full Service History" and what is actually required. Some service staff are helpful but many (most?) are woeful.

Shirley it's the whole of VAG UK?

Was just double checking as it's often more simple to disconnect the shocks only and wondered if this was what @MrRichwas doing.