MarkyG82

Is there a system you can install to control the shocks on a non-dcc car?

Was going to ask when the map is coming. I reckon you'll change your mind by the end of 2021!

Having not been at the helm of a vrs what does vrs mode actually do? Is it throttle mapping and steering like you get in S in other cars?

This is a problem withh all VAG cars from the looks of things. Fine for everyday drivers with a fabia or polo. Not so good for a higher power or sports car. The pedal box litterally transformed my Octavia. Had a map put on it but it was the pedal box that openned the map up. The response when asking for a little more throttle made it far more fun to drive. Makes it a little more eager to drop a gear and also allows you to use the torque that is at the revs you are in. Tweakable to remove the deadspot in the first bit of pedal travel (the main reson for installing it). Pretty sure dtuk still do 14 or 30 day money back deals. Or buy one used and sell it for the same if it doesnt work to your liking. That is of course if your tuner cant sort it in the dsg tune. That would be the best option.

Oh. I assumed it was the same as the Passat GTE. My GTE has 2 slots in the unit.

Next silly question, why not just put the sd card into the slot in the head unit (glovebox)?

Shocks (dampers) for reducing bounciness. Springs for roll/pitch or lowering. There's a LOT more to it but that's a good place to start. B6 should work well with stock springs and help reduce unwanted body movement in all directions along with general body/wheel control when things are bumpy. You will find you are able to carry more speed and comfort should improve (this is personal preference).

ECU swap is not the same as a tuning box. The former is a straight swap for the factory control unit. The latter is a piggy back unit that alters the signal to the factory system. They have their advantages and some are better than others.

I know the guys quite well and I doubt they would travel to you unless you are looking for a custom map with mods. Got to be worth their effort as there are only 2 main guys. Do superchips still do plug-ins? If the map is the same then it could be worth it for the ability to switch it off for service/wife. Edit: Actually scratch the wife bit. The map should be better on the clutch thn stock as it's a smoother delivery.

With the 1.9 id just go with who offers the right price you are willing to pay plus any extra 'features' you want. I very much doubt there will be a bad map from any reputable firm on the PD lump. I had my 105 mapped by Storm Development as they are near me and have a reasonable reputation. I specifically asked for a smooth map to iron out the lumps and not a HP hunting setup. It was great. Much nicer to drive even though the peak HP was only increased to 135. The pull through out the rev was constant and the peak delivery was way above normal driving. Kept it like that for about 3 years and it never got boring.

@benbro I think you are concentrating on the snow performance of the winter/all season tyres. The NZ climate is perfect for all seasons unless you are driving a sports car in summer. It's definitely taking on board what @SurreyJohn says and maybe spend an hour on youtube watching reviews. TyreReviews is particularly good.

8j are 6mm (ish) further out so add that to the 4mm difference if going for et44. 8j et44 stick out 10mm more than 7.5j et48 8j et48 will stick out only 2mm more than 7.5 et44 but will be 10mm closer to the strut/spring If inner clearance is not an issue and you want stock look then 8j et48 would be good. 10mm out would look good though and retain inner clearance.

I think the general compression of the engine is enough to stop/slow the car. If it would cause issues with hydraulic tensioners then maybe the default advice should be to put it in the direction of the hill? Along with pointing the wheels at the curb you should be golden.

E manager is for plug in hybrid to plan charging and preheating.

Although your mpg (and other stuff) stories are polarising on here, I quite like the efforts you go to to get good mileage from your motors. At last you are in one that is suitable for the subject. My challenge to you is to see if you can get 1000 miles from it. And that's a real achieved 1k rather than projected based on fuel remaining.

@FrankNicklin we are getting ourselves cross wired. I was talking about the bad practice of not using the handbrake. Of course if you apply the handbrake before lifting the foot brake then all is fine. Carry on good sir.

"Any" I'm not sure. Most is more likely. It's actually a fabia wheel but when you look at the parts they are the same from fabia up to superb. Got the part no from a superb thread. Not tried yet. Will remove and chuck on here for proper sale. Thanks all.

Trading in the Octavia at the weekend and realised I have a steering wheel with paddles fitted. Still have the original so would anyone be interested in the paddled one? If not I'll leave it fitted.

Do you know what model you have? @pab567 should be able to help out for much less than £1000. If an Amundsen then I may have one in the garage you can have for a small sum. Will need work by pab to get it up to speed with your car.

I was going to add this too but thought there was enough in the thread. Witnessed it years ago when I saw someone get shunted in a right turn lane turning a 2 car bump into a 4 car smash. Was early in my driving "career" with my dad in the car. Had a good discussion about it after as a learning point.

The problem is the car moves after taking your foot off the brake. This is when the pressure is applied.

I had a similar thing happen a good few years back with a p reg laguna. It was on a rare 2 digit plate and the accident was in Wolverhampton. I had never been there and and when it came down to working it out it was the fault of the police missing a digit in their notes. Mine was P59 and the offending corsa was P592 or something. Finger crossed you get it cleared up swiftly.

The 250 in my Octavia has been fine in the 3 years I've had it. Can we assume that the DQ250 in the iv/GTE has the same oil pump etc as the standard 250? I know the housing is different to account for the motor and extra clutch pack. Either way I'll be extending the manufacturers warranty.

WOW! And there's me saying dsg faults are rare these days! Edit: And I've just put a deposit down on a Passat GTE.

To write off skoda due to what is now a rare occurrence is your choice OP. I agree it is shocking that they are not even letting you pay towards the parts to gain some cover but there should be some sort of consumer cover for workmanship ect. Maybe that is worth looking into for piece of mind?