MarkyG82

We have the 150 in a seat arona and I'm not a fan. Better than the 110 I test drove though.

So it seems. V90 would be it I think. Good prices too for the t4 engine. I feel some test drives coming.

I'll add that to the list then. Now, do I look at a Volvo too...

@pist0nbr0ke Cant seem to find those for a good price. Basically a superb with VW badge? Budget is around 20k.

Sound like a golf r is removing itself from the list then. Sat in a Leon when looking at the Arona for Mrs G82 and felt it was more cramped than the mk3 Octavia. Looks like I am hunting for a Skoda then. Back to Octavia or superb estate. 280/272 would be nice.

So does anyone know anything on this? I think I might need to measure my boot and take a tape to go test a golf. Will of course post my findings.

No. You need to swap it all.

I did this a couple of years ago. Local key/lock place charged something like £12.

Mainly comparing with golf r estate and Leon cupra estate both of which have false floor as standard. I never lower the variable floor in my Octavia estate. So the question is do they measure the boot space in the other cars from the "raised" position hence giving them smaller boots? If so I wouldn't lose much in space if move to a golf or Leon.

I get put off the Leon as all the reviews say it has a small boot. Golf not much better but at least it's square. Can't seem to find a good answer on whether they measure the boot above the false floor in the R as it's standard fit for them. If so then a Leon might be fine as I tend to leave my variable floor raised for junk storage. Back to the question: that's what I was thinking. I can that idea and go full estate. Thanks 👍

Been wanting to get rid of the Octavia for a while due to not doing the type of driving that is kind to a dpf. So I've been waiting for the finances to square up before replacing it with a vrs, golf r or superb. That could be soon but another idea has arisen. Get a golf r/GTi or similar as a daily and keep the estate for load lugging and longer distance (holiday etc). Anyone else done similar? Wife has a car (seat arona) that we are happy with. I just want a stop gap for 2-5 years until electric makes sense.

I actually found the opposite. With a purple insert fitted it is much more controlled at the front end. With or without B6 and prokit springs. With the shock and spring upgrade it's even more controlled but much firmer. Taking the insert out in the next few weeks when I swap to winter wheels so it'll be interesting to see what it's like with the suspension mods but standard dogbone. Vibration is quite a lot though. I don't mind it but the family are not too fond. Mainly at idle.

That screen should work with many mib2 units as it is a Columbus mib2 screen. If going down the mib2 route you will need a new amp and then that will need CP removal with the head unit CP work. Could work out quite expensive to get an amp too so look into how much it is for mib1 replacement and see if the difference is worth having carplay/Android auto.

Apologies. I was regurgitating info received from someone (forget who, was on here though). The 5 year rule is used by tyre fitters from the looks of the interwebs. No legal issues. Carry-on.

2014

Tyres fitted to the car are mot fail if over 5 years old. Not sure on spare age limits. Imagine they are ok if in the boot but must be good if fitted?

So you don't know how well it worked before the retrofit? It could be faulty. Or the issue could be further up the chain. Maybe get the tools to remove the screen and head unit to check the cables are all plugged in ok. You will need the tools to remove the screen to gain access to change the usb anyway. What I'm trying to say is that I have the exact same setup as you with mib2 and old usb socket and don't have any problems. Your problem isn't usb socket type.

I does sound like there is a faulty part in your system. The USB socket could be the issue. Did you try it before the retrofit? At least they are not too expensive and easy to fit.

DSG on those engines (DQ200) is the weaker variant with dry clutches. Although there hasn't been many stories of late it was known to have issues where the wet clutch versions (DQ250+) are a bit more robust. There is no official service regime on the DQ200 but it is certainly possible to change the oil in them. A good VAG specialist should be able to carry out the work. Usually recommended around 40k miles on the wet clutch variants. How the reliability issues manifest themselves I don't know. There will be others on here who can tell you. One thing I do know is that if you are planning on keeping it for a while be very sure of the condition and any recalls that should be carried out. My FIL got a 1.5 Karoq in manual for this reason.

I just read back my post and realised I said mib2 from mib2. Should have said from mib1. I have the exact same setup as you and have no problems once I get the right cable. You may still have faulty parts but the setup isn't the issue.

Out of your list I'd say the folding mirrors are the most used for me. Look out the kitchen window, oh my car is unlocked...click. Headlight wash tweak is also useful so you don't waste screen wash. I would also recommend reducing the speed at which the reverse sensors stop when moving forward again. Pretty sure standard is in the region of 15mph. I have mine set to 8mph which is much nicer. After reversing from a bay in a multi-storey you could be out the bottom before you reach the normal threshold.

I have a retrofitted Amundsen mib2 from mib2 still using the original usb. A cable (good quality) that charged my pixel 3 fine will now not run Android auto on my pixel 5. A random cable I had stashed in the glovebox works fine with the 5. Both phones charge ok when on the system. They are definitely cable sensitive and I've come across original cables not working before so it's worth trying a different cable.

Thinking (typing?) out loud, has anyone thought about those rubber ring things that can be fitted into the springs for heavy loads, towing, etc? I know they wouldn't change the damping rate but apparently they do absorb some vibration and would go some way to reduce the bang on full compression. You may gain a small amount of ride height though. I guess the more long term fix would be FSDs or B6s.

It's been discussed a few times that the RARB is too soft. Is this part of the problem? I see that it's bottoming out and a roll bar cant cure that. I've never had a car that bottoms hard enough to bang. Maybe the bump stops are too soft/small?

It's great to get different view points on these mods. Having recently turned stop/start back on I can vouch for the comfort sitting at lights with the engine off. I'll be removing the insert prior to parting in the car so it'll be interesting to see how it feels lowered but no insert.