MarkyG82

According to the AAwireless team there will be no duty to pay. They Have been putting a lot of work in to sort the best distribution routes. Time will tell.

I also have a an AAWireless on 'order'. latest update looks like they are shipping the first batch in Feb so should start to land on doorsteps towards the end of the month.

Just do it in one go and put up with the short honk. That's what I did when fitting a paddle shift wheel.

Well the new one is 1445kg with 245hp and potentially 19s. Added to what surreyjohn said there is definitely a move towards needing the correct tyres for the condition.

The change from past (distant past?) Is that cars are heavier, more powerful and use lower profile/wider tyres. This all combines to a statistical lower grip level. Yes there will be many that can handle more slippy conditions but on the whole cars need tyres suitable for the climate/conditions.

Watching this. If I can get kessy bin just the drivers door it would be quite useful.

We have a Google/nest hub and a home mini in a group in the kitchen. No they don't sound amazing but yes they sound good enough for most things (music, radio, podcast). I would suggest looking into what else you might use it for as just changing the thermostat or radio may not be enough. Especially as you have your music on CDs.

The part I did like about eco was the slow resume on cruise and the soft throttle/gear change. I did discuss the possibility of removing the coasting with a tuner but he wasn't sure he could do it. I do think that rather than coasting a change to the highest possible gear (or even just up one) would offer much better economy while giving semi-coasting feel.

My statement was intended towards the manufacturers where indirect is mostly a bit of added coding. Extra hardware in the wheels and receiver in the car system has got to be more expensive at manufacture? Yes I know that adding features in the factory is far cheaper than retrofit bit with the numbers involved the indirect system is a better solution for the manufacturer.

You'll find many cars use this system probably. Direct tpms has got to be far more expensive.

My findings when trying it: It takes a very specific driving style to make the best use of it. Lifting earlier than you ever thought and then gentle when getting back on the gas to let the engine catch up. If you drive the car a you would in normal you will quickly get frustrated. It caught me out a couple of time when I forgot I'd enabled it and had to brake harder than usual coming up to a junction.

Best bet is to climb under the car with a vernier and measure it. I got the part no off bilstein and also asked my trusted garage for the part no.s (I could get it cheaper through onterweb). Turned out to be 50mm even though catalogue and garage said otherwise. They were stumped too. He couldn't figure out why it would be that size given it was an estate with 2.0 diesel lump. Once fitted they were great and I doubt many people could tell the difference between sizes when driving.

@Combi_Bob nope. I had 50mm fitted to my 2.0TDI elegance estate. I think it's more subtle than that.

I would suggest new top mounts. Drop links not required but can't hurt as they have a few miles on them. Can I ask what you found about the 50/55mm difference. I thought it was dependent on what hub carriers you have fitted?

How does the button work?

There is a spacer you can get from Audi but it only raises by 6.5mm. For your purposes I can suggest 2 mods. 1. Upgraded shocks all round (Bilstein B6 or Koni FSD) 2. Rear anti-roll bar. This should offer what you want but keeping the stock ride height and tightening things up nicely. Probably worth doing it in stages as you may find the better shocks do most of what you are after and then no real need to do the rarb. There are also rubber inserts or air bags that can go in the rear spring for when fully loaded to take up some slack. Not usually used for daily driving but is a hit with the caravan crowd.

Whatever you do make sure you are looking at the right eibach springs. Sportline are the bigger drop at 45-50mm I think. Prokit are the more everyday springs with a 30-35mm drop. These drops are based on standard octavia height. For vrs knock another 15mm off those. H&R are 40mm I think.

I thought that looked like a mib2 bolero.

Tried searching for what each socket is for and found THIS. The site look quite helpfull but mainly good for if you have more of the cables already fitted maybe. Which you dont. I think either the blue or black is gps. The other of the two is dab and the double is fm. Yellow one could be for steering wheel control so that leaves the pink for the screen as you said. Do you have dab in your current setup? That could explain the last connection on your original unit. From memory the last rectangle black plug is for canton. I had this on my amundsen that I retrofitted to my octavia and it wasnt used.

So you dont currently have a unit in the glovebox? There are a number of cables that run to the back of the glovebox unit. Something like: Main harness (big square) Screen connection gps radio dab Canton (probably not on yours) You should have the big square plug and either radio or radio+dab. gps can be added via aftermarket gps antenna that will need to then stick in your dash somwhere if you want to use nav. after taking the screen out of the dash what do the cables look like and where do they run? Could just be as simple as rerouting the main harness to the glovebox then getting hold of that extra cable to connect the screen. tl:dr Maybe a scrappy can help?

The screen is just a display and button unit for the main head unit in the glovebox. The screen and glovebox unit for MIB1 are only used for those specific models (stereo models, not car models). MIB2 units have ability to interchange screens to some extent. Different model glovebox units have increasing specs generally at 3 levels: 1. no nav, small screen (Bolero) 2. nav, small screen (Amundsen) 3. nav, big screen (Columbus) As MIB2 have the ability to use bigger screens, many people have retrofitted the lower spec head unit witha bigger screens then use Android Auto/Carplay. I believe the better units have better sound too. The cost involved is to buy the head unit buy the screen remove Component Protection from the head unit code the head unit to the car Fitting is relativly straight forward. If you can plug a PC in you'll be fine. Just need the removal tools which cost less than £10.

Definitely sounds like the previous owner was a over generous with their pot hole/kerb aiming. See what the dealer says with all the evidence. Maybe email them and follow up with a call so you have everything in writing. Then ask for their response to be on email. With any luck they will at least offer something towards repair/replacement.

I tried this yesterday on the GTE. I was going out in the afternoon having already gone out in the morning. it was charging and at about 75% SOC. I selected preheat AC in the app and it looked like it stopped the main charging. When I looked again a little while later to check the app (first tie doing the prehet this way) the SOC was at 100% despite showing as not charging. I think it's just a broken reporting in the system showing not charging. Also takes some time to actually kick in the preheat.

Have you worked out what mpg is needed for 1000miles?

Creeping towards that 1000 mile 'goal'. Maybe in the summer when the engine will run more lean.