MarkyG82

The lack of further warranty is down to the offer being 100% on the parts. They don't offer warranty on the labour. You could offer to pay your £700 towards the parts cost and they cover the labour 100%. That way you would still pay the same but you would receive 2 years cover on the parts. That is your best outcome I think. Yes you are £700 (+expenses) down, but they are under no obligation to pay anything at all as the part out of warranty. SUK have selected 3 years/60k as their warranty period as a balance of parts life, customer expectation, sales leverage.

Even better!! I knew it was a quick job as had a similar thing done on a Renault 10 years ago.

That is very good to hear. Hopefully my local dealer is willing to do the work. Need app-connect (smartlink) activating too. Not sure why it's not already done on a 2018 car but VW must do things slightly differently to Skoda.

This. Give @pab567 a shout as the resident guru. He'll hook you up but prepare for £500-1200 depending on spec. It's by far the best upgrade I made as I use AA daily.

I have this exact dilemma with a car I tested today albeit a VW. My initial concern is that there may be a key out there that can open my car. Chatting through it with my fil he found a company that can remove keys from the car and reprogram. Skip to the end: I'm calling be tomorrow to ask what their view is. It's the only thing holding me from buying the car so I hope I can figure it out. Of course I'll let you know.

The following is based on logic and not actual knowledge of a 190. The 184 has a bigger turbo than 150 so the 190 will likely be in a similar boat. Could even be an updated version of the 184 turbo. On top of that it's likely there are differences with the fuel system so support the increase in air flow. There are likely to be other differences with the head and other ancillaries to support more power and decreased emissions as is the way with engine development. Edit: To clarify I have a 150 Octavia with a map and pedal box. It's fun but not a super car.

So what have they done? New turbo we know about. Have they left the map on? Have they tweaked it to match the new turbo?

It's a habit that the US have got into and IMO not a good habit. As can be seen by the replies, it's good to always use the 'hand' brake when the car is parked. There are other situations when using or not is advised. When stationary at lights/junction is an interesting one. I have taken to holding on the foot brake. If someone decides the back of your car deserves a remodel you can either pull away to avoid getting hot or at least take your foot off the brake to allow the car to roll on to absorb some of the impact.

The 35 miles Wil be on a warm day with no other stuff running. No heating (or AC), no lights, etc. If only you in the car you should use heated seat etc for comfort an turn the cabin heating off. Much more efficient that way. Take a look on YouTube for reviews of the iv and Passat GTE. Should get a better idea of how to use the different driving modes to make better use of the battery and ice. Edit: Also use the preheating as previously mentioned.

What's more important; Getting the service record updated? or Getting the work done correctly? Personally I would rather lose a couple of hundred at point of sale (due to not having a 'full' service history) to know that I paid less for the servicing at a know good garage and the work was done correctly. Edit: Sounds like Root has a good option.

It's also a lesson to learn that if you have anything replaced during warranty period to see if the dealer will let you pay towards the bill. You get the full 2 years cover then. If not then you are only covered to the end of the warranty. Even if only a day left.

@Clockworks the issue here isn't maintenance or condition. It's the suitability of diesel.

I think you have been offered a fairly good deal. The extra charges you have paid sound a little much. 75 for insurance? Eh? Then 120 for a hire car anyway. Should you not get the 75 back at least? It's not technically a warranty claim so those additional bits I would expect are on you but would definitely be looking at what you got for those costs.

It may also be a waste to clog up the dpf and pay for a replacement filter. I would argue you need the right tool for the job and that is definitely a petrol. Can you afford to keep what you have until a petrol comes up at the right price?

Have you got the AA app installed? Sometimes that helps although Android of late has it baked in. I have found that the cable is the most annoying part. One cable working with one phone then fails with another often in the way you describe. Try as many cables as you can and select your 'permanent' one from that pile. Pretty much how it works every time I get a new phone (list below of phones that I have found to be cable sensitive) OnePlus 3 OnePlus 5 Pixel 3 Pixel 5 Just noticed it goes 3535. Yes... I'm boring like that

As root says, a service is a service regardless of the name. All they do is oil and filter. They might change air filter if you are lucky/ask for it. Otherwise the oil changes you have been doing is a fair bit more than it would have got in someone elses hands. Are you in warranty? If not then get the following done: pollen filter air filter fuel filter dsg haldex (if awd) brake fluid The first 3 might be included in a major service but should be cheaper to get them done separately. The last 3 are extras anyway.

I would put money on it being the water pump. At that age and miles it's worth getting the cambelt done at the same time as it has to come off anyway.

It also depends on how it has been driven up to now. Although 110-120k miles in 4 years is higher than average so likely hasn't seen any dpf issues. Still, I would avoid a diesel if doing that sort of annual mileage. My long distance journeys have greatly reduced in the last 3or4 months and I have noticed a big difference. High revs when starting etc. I need a long blast very soon or I'll be in trouble.

You could also argue that the full coil over setup is stiff enough so a more modest AR bar is suitable.

I imagine it's for differing requirements.

Check willtheyfit.com and make sure to include the offset (et number).

This is definitely an issue but not a game changer. I have seen a pic of a full set (front and back) and it looked great. Not obviously from a different car.

The wires are likely to do the same function just different plug ends. Do a bit of homework and make an adapter that links the cables.

I can recommend the B6 dampers for all normal driving or when Lowered. They make a massive difference in every aspect.

I have 12 on front and 20 on rear and no obvious issues with handling. I chose smaller spacers for the front to avoid rub.