MarkyG82

Not entirely true. In eco the return to a set speed is much slower. S may be quicker than d but i would have to check this. Not at all. A simple pull back on the stick to get a more responsive drive is great. The fact that more recent cars don't retain the mode selection contributes a little.

MIB1 unit is only compatible with the screen its designed for. If going through the effort and expense you will be better off going for MIB2 especially as it can have smartlink enabled. With MIB2 there is some cross compatibility with screens. You will need a new glovebox unit and have the component protection removed (this is not needed for the screen), then have it coded to match the car and have smartlink enabled at the same time (speak to pab567 for this). The dealer should be able to do the CP removal of the glovebox unit but the final coding will need to be done by someone with the correct kit (pab567). Budget in the uk £600-1200 depending on spec.

I imagine there will be a fix along at some point for the later versions if they are proven to be an issue still.

Just had our Arona done. Its a different car to how it was when we got it. Had to either drive in sport or eco as the throttle mapping was different. Normal was so bad. Now the car feels as it should have been. I'll be interested what the economy is like after the fix.

Don't forget to take a backup of the coding before you use the app as they don't tell you what is being changed. Reverting would be difficult otherwise if you have issues.

If it's anything like the Octavia all mib2 screens are swappable, apart from the 9.2inch which requires mib2.5. if coming from mib1 then you will need a new glovebox unit with component protection removed and recoding to match the car.

I use individual on my 2.0 TDI. Steering set to sport with engine to normal. No DCC so a pull on the stick is essentially the same as putting it in full sport. I often use the paddles to drop a gear for fun or road conditions. A pedal box helps loads with the hesitant normal mode.

Considering how cheap and easy it is to change the air filter I tend to do it annually.

Father in law's karoq has them. Looks good on the light grey colour. I think it would look best without the chrome trim around the windows.

Classifieds section on here.

Tried ez foaming wheel cleaner the other day. Worked well. Then used ez iron remover (can't remember the name) which also did a great job. If the bilt hamber stuff does cleaning along side iron removal it could be a good time saver if not using iron out on the body.

I honestly didn't know this. I would have assumed that it would be paid by the warranty provider after being approved by the customer. Then if found to be not covered by the policy the bill goes to the customer. Is this the old way? I'm not even that old 🤨

I would expect all work (including investigation) to be covered by warranty.

Do you have Dyno outputs? I'm not disagreeing that you may feel a difference, but it is physically impossible to get that much from changing a filter especially from a diesel that is not controlled by air flow. The stock air box and filter is good for well over 200hp on the 2.0 tdi 150.

15%? Really? On a 245 that's 36ps. On a 1.5 150 that's 22.5ps. 1.5% maybe but definitely not 15% just from a filter. A TDI would see no gains at all either.

Put the stalk 1 click up into what is normally intermittent. Then you have the sensitivity adjust on the top of the stalk.

That's awesome thanks. Just need to find time to climb under the car to see what the original one is like and how much work. Imagine it's a jack up - bottom shock bolts out - springs off job. Should be easy enough provided the bolts aren't crudded too bad.

Does anyone know how the spring perches differ between the multi link and torsion beam setups? The rear on mine could do with a few mm extra for the same reasons as you've stated. Ignore me. My fault for bouncing around the forums as this is the superb section and I am referring to my Octavia. Unless someone has the right answers?

I almost exclusivley use vpower diesel. The added economy goes some way to paying for the difference. Then you have the cleaner engine and related components. For me its worth the added expense. If you sign up to the shell app and collect 'points' you get a money off voucher every now and then too. In theory the additives are the same so you should see similar results. You are just paying for the convenience of having it alreaded added with vpower.

I had been put off the iv due to hybrids not yet actually being that green (still combustion and battery tech not quite clean enough). Also had originally chosen the 272 but running costs and tax cost for the first 5 years are massive. Enter the 190tsi but it just seems a bit dull and not much more grunt than my mapped TDI. So, the iv is coming back round as an option as I really like the idea of commuting on ev power then unleashing the fun at the weekend. Also the pre warming/cooling would be amazing! Can anyone convince me why not to buy one? Moving in the next 6-12 months so a charger will go on the new house. 3 pin for now unless I can find a cheap solution for power as it might make the house more attractive.

What need is there for the 12v battery? Surely the engine can be started with power from the hybrid system. Or is it for starting the car in the event the big battery empties?

If you want to technically identify it there are lumps on the side of the lower part of the struts. This is where the controls are for the different damping levels. Should be able to see it with the front wheels turned.

@wharferat you get a tool in the kit to push in from the outside. Then pull the tool out and leave the plug behind. Its apparently good enough for normal driving. Its at least good to get you home. Should be able to fit without taking the wheel off too. Just need to find space for a jack which I believe there is limited storage under the floor for cables.

I had to use my spare just before Xmas last year. The lack of them in new cars has prompted me to look up alternatives. Best I came across so far is a repair kit with plugs like garages use and a portable inflator. Coming from a technical background I think I could make do with that and then use breakdown or tube of gunge for when the repair won't work.

How do you guys feel about no space for a spare? One big thing that puts me off.