MarkyG82

First suggestion would be tracking out. I'd get it checked by someone independent from the garage just to be sure. Next would be tyre pressure. Low pressure and excessive cornering speed (understeer) could cause this.

It seems all recent Skoda's suffer the same. Does it have individual mode? Can this be used to set the required settings and then you just need to hit the mode button and select it each time? Or get used to driving in normal for day to day? Put it in other modes for when you want more power or economy?

I don't fully understand the question but the voice control when using AA is Google assistant. Likewise it's probably Siri for CP. If set up correctly you should be able to do anything you can on a Google home device. You're welcome. Not sure how I discovered it I must have just tried it one day. Use it nearly daily now. For connecting: unplug my phone in before inserting the key. The phone picks up the usb much quicker that way.

Dealer should be able to remove CP. Coding needs specialist kit. Vcds/obd11 will not be enough. Pab567 on here should be able to point you in the right direction.

Sounds like your phone is either a low spec model or is a bit old if it's overheating that much. In order: - yes it takes some time to load. That's the price for remote software. And that's the point. - what is it you want to control from the wheel? Voice control is activated via a long press of the voice button. - again that's the point. Stops you doing unsafe things. - that's subjective. I really like Waze. - why would you need to switch between them? Just use Google or Waze. Or stick to onboard nav. - you can actually save favourites and name them which then can be searched for via text or voice. Or just save favourites as normal in waze. - yeah this may be true but if you have spent the time setting it up out of the car then you don't get issues with this.

You will need component protection removed and then the new unit coded to activate stuff and get it matched to the car functions. Yes you are right that the screen you have is fine. It's the only MIB1 screen that works with MIB2 hardware.

This is true but hitting the down shift a few times as you stand on the brakes makes it much more effective.... and fun.

Final ratio could be different. Mechanically probably ok... maybe... possibly. Final ratio could be longer which would offer higher gearing for better economy. Would make the drive sluggish though.

So if you order a new build and it doesn't get built till they start on the updated version, does that mean you get the updated one? Shirley they wouldn't revert the assembly line just to build the old (current) version? Or is there usually a cut off date or break with a switch over? With the long lead times often quoted for car builds being exaggerated due to covid, would it be sensible to wait a couple of months?

I'm not too interested in lowering right now (not even placed an order yet) but from how the cr is described an upgraded rear arb is essential for anyone wanting to go round a corner at pace. It'll be going on the shopping list for sure.

As you say they probably didn't bother with the checks as there is little demand. I would suspect the fitment to be fine as the B4's are ok. The DCC connection is probably also the same but it would need checking of course. Anyone want to be a lab rat?

Does the individual mode stay put between starts? It does in my 64plate Octavia but there are many reports of newer Octavias not remembering the mode selection. Could well be similar with superb and something you just have to do.

900 seems a little low for pulling away. The pd engine has great low down torque and allowed pulling away with little gas input. The cr engines are much more revvy and require more gas pedal to get going. Is it possible you just need to adjust your driving style to compensate?

I was looking at the 272 but the cost with the options I want is well over 40k so the cost of ownership, for the 5 years I plan to keep it for, would be a lot more due to tax and fuel*. That being the case I'm looking at the 190 TSI sportline plus estate. Its a family car and my commuter machine (10 miles each way so looking to get shot of the TDI). Also used for MTB trips, family holidays and other load lugging. Buying cash (with inheritance) so initial purchase price is not too important. Future running costs are what I'm looking at. Current octy has B6 shocks on eibach pros, remap, pedal box and dogbone insert. From what I can tell, the 190 has similar peak power and torque values to my 150tdi with a remap but a much better delivery being a TSI so a couple of k revs on top of where the TDI drops off. *Unless a test drive of the 272 Vs 190 proves I need the power for over £5k extra over 5 years. On that note, will a 272 hold its value better considering I'll be selling it at the height of the ev transition?

Its something like £800. About what you'd spend on better shocks but then you would have a "conversation" with the dealer regards warranty. If sport mode is similar to a set of B6 shocks (or konis) but comfort is what it says then I think it's a no brainer. I'll add it I think. And virtual cockpit and heated screen. Thanks.

How have you got on with individual mode? Getting prices for new cars and thinking about if it is worth it to spec DCC on a sportline.

Does anyone know how much film is 5o protect the front of the car? Would it be worth the expense to keep the car as pristine as possible for say a 5/6 year ownership? Ps. Apologies for the hijack.

It's a design "feature" of the dsg shifter mechanism. One of the reasons they are moving to less mechanical shifters like the new Octavia and golf.

Sounds like a DIY option is on the cards.

Care to share? Looking at superb sportline plus with similar seats.

You really would expect any damage caused by a failure (part or fitment) to be covered by the garage. It is then their responsability to prove the part to be at fault (I imagine). What would have happened if the belt snapped and you came off the road causing damage to others property or worse? You would expect the insurance company to get the money back from the garage or part supplier shirley?

I have tried to get the answer to this in the performance section but haven't had any responses. I have quite a good handle on suspension setup and how different things achieve different results. I had B6 shocks fitted earlier in the year and now I would like to try lowering springs. B12 pro kits used to come with B6 shocks and the B12 sport with B8. With the B8 being shorter it is designed specifically for shorter springs. Now ALL B12 kits come with B8 shocks. Q1: as eibach pro springs are compatible with OEM shocks what is the issue with fitting them to B6 shocks being the same length as standard? Q1: what specifically is the advantage of the shorter shock for lowering if there is no slack in the spring at full extension with B6/stock?

I have been doing some reading on suspension setup and looking to clear some things up. I have fitted Bilstien B6 shocks to my Mk3 Octavia on standard springs. I'm happy with the fit and forget nature so don't want to go down the coilover route. I would however, like to talk springs and shock stroke. I'm and engineer and a mountain biker so have a solid understanding of suspension setup. What I am trying to understand is lowering springs. Even though eibach recommend the B8 shocks for lowering due to the shorter shock I am content that I will be able to fit shorter springs to the B6 with little issue. Now I'm getting into the technical bit. Droop is how the wheel extends when unloading the suspension. The same (lowering) springs on longer (standard) shocks will offer increased droop. What I want to know is how this would affect ride and handling? I assume the inside of the car would lift on cornering rather than the outside compressing? In a random forum talking about coilover setup I found a statement that more droop is better for rough environments and less droop better for track/smooth stuff. Assuming this to be true, would I benefit from lowering a small amount affectively giving me more static sag sitting at 40% into the travel or would I be better off sticking with the stock springs sitting at 25% sag. How would this affect ride? Are lowering springs generally progressive to prevent bottom out or are they simply a higher rate to provide a more sporty ride? If I have explained things badly please say and I'll try again. Percentage figures are not correct. They are just for illustrative purposes.