petrolbloke

Not necessarily. In my experience it can be quite hard to tell from driving the car which wheel bearing it is, hence my recommendation to jack it up and check or just take it to a garage.

Holy thread resurrection! Another way to check (and how it would be checked at MOT time) is to jack the car up and check for play when wobbling the wheel horizontally and vertically and to spin the wheel and feel/listen for a grumbling bearing. If you take it to a garage they should be able to quite easily diagnose which one it is.

If you have a multimeter it shouldn't be too difficult to work out which wire is for what.

I wonder if the suspension is too low and it's bottoming out (hitting the bump stops). Or just that the spring rate/damping is poorly matched for the road conditions. Regarding the tyre wear - how many miles did the last pair of rear tyres do and was there any uneven wear across them? If the excessive wear was caused by too much toe in then I'd expect the outer edges to be more worn. Most cars will have a bit of toe-in on the rear wheels from the factory (for handling stability) but it's normally so little that the outside edges wouldn't wear noticeably more.

The rear camber is fine. The right rear has more toe than the left but they are both toeing in which is normal (and gives a more stable / less twitchy rear end). You say it's eaten through rear tyres quickly - I wouldn't expect that at all from the print out you shared. I suspect it's the rear shocks/springs that are the problem. Could also be sticking rear brakes, worth checking that too.

It's around the front of the engine, under the inlet manifold, low down near the oil filter. It's got a weird looking mounting bracket and a hose that goes into the airbox I think.

Lowering shouldn't affect the rear toe as the rear suspension is a torsion beam. How do you know the rear toe is out of alignment? Have you had it 4 wheel aligned? If so, can you share the printout? What suspension and what tyres & pressures are you running? Have you got a RARB fitted? What condition are the bushes for the rear beam?

I think they are identical but it's been a while since I replaced mine.

I don't know of it but have you tried the Facebook owners groups?

I couldn't hear anything unusual on the video, but it might be that it doesn't pick it up or that I don't really know what I'm listening for!

Recording is not public so I can't listen to it. You could upload it to YouTube as an unlisted video. I know what you mean but OP said it lasts for about a minute until the revs drop which is strongly pointing the finger at the SAI.

Not on a mk1 Octavia it won't be. I second (or third or whatever number it is by now) to get a second opinion from a decent independent garage, preferably one that's experienced with the older auto models. At main dealer labour rates I can imagine fixing a gearbox would be eye wateringly expensive. Is converting it to manual an option?! If you do decide to get rid I expect you'd get more for it selling it yourself as spares/repairs than selling it for scrap. The headlights and wheels and tyres alone are could easily be worth a few hundred pounds.

225? There's also the 210 (ish) which was in earlier Audi S3s and Leon Cupra Rs before they went to the 225 engine. There was also the special edition mk1 TT which had 240bhp. Probably some other variants around as well... Anyway, I think it will be prohibitively expensive to turbocharge your current engine. You'd be better off either fitting a 1.8T engine and modifying/tuning it to your power requirements or just buying another car that already has the power you're after.

Not sure why your message is posted as an image. It's better to post it as text for many reasons. Anyway, if you're using G12/G13 coolant (or whatever the latest compatible one is called) and it's still overheating then there's probably either something else wrong (water pump, thermostat stuck closed, blocked radiator) or the overheating is being caused by driving conditions (long uphill, idling for a long time, driving in slow traffic...).

I hardly ever use it. Probably useful if you're transporting a load of eggs and don't want to make an omlette en route.

Don't know if they are the same for hatch/estate versions but I have one for my hatch.

Rusted through on a 2015 car?! My 2002 Octavia still has the original dust shields. Maybe they don't make them like they used to! 😄

If they were loose (and could potentially fall off) or contacting the disk I wouldn't be surprised to get at least an advisory for it. OP: did the noise just suddenly start or was anything done to the car just before it started? The discs/pads look OK from the photos, but as Ken said we can't make judgement on the inner pads. All being well they should wear at a similar rate but if the sliders seize up then the inner would wear more. You could try to feel the other side of the discs with your finger (once cold!) to see if there are any obvious ridges. If it's going in for a service tomorrow then worth asking them to do a quick check. With the car in the air it should be a piece of cake to work out which wheel(s) the noise is coming from and whether it's due to the dust shield or pads.

'99 Octy vRS? I thought the earliest ones were 2001 - X or Y reg. Have a look on eBay and FB for cars being broken for spares. I believe other Octavia subframes will also fit and maybe even some Golf/Leon/A3/TT ones - hopefully someone else can give some more detail on that.

140k? Just run in 😉

I think you posted in a FB group I'm also a member of. Same reply here - I fitted Sachs front springs to mine. They have been on a few years with no problems. I think I got them from CP4L/ECP or GSF.

This is in the mk1 section and a 2016 car will be a mk3. I'm not sure if it will cause any problems but I would fill it up with premium unleaded next time (97 RON+) then use 95 RON+ in future.

That is crazy pricing. It's a very straightforward job to replace so definitely worth DIYing or taking the part you've bought to a tame local mechanic if you're really not confident fitting it. Good luck

Direct link for OP: https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk/car-parts/ecu/switches-and-sensors/air-mass-sensor/bosch-air-mass-sensor-0280218340-detail Price looks good. I think I paid about £60 on exchange basis from a dealer 10 or 11 years ago.

I suspect the latter but it might be worth a try. See here: