wokwon

Some possibilities. 1) Sensor or servo failure, you'll need a VAS or VCDS scan to identify. 2) Re-calibrate flaps for climatronic: hold down face-vent and AC button until the lights flash alternately. This will re-learn the flap servo end stops. You might not have climatronic so not sure if this is applicable to you. 3) Thermostat failure. When the heat knob is at full, it enables the electric booster heater (if fitted). When not at full, the heater is enabled under certain conditions but not others. This scenario would be evident if your water temperature gauge doesn't reach the middle 90degreesC position after driving for some time. A common one is that the gearbox cooler thermostat (DSG) fails open, so the water never really warms up unless the engine is working hard. The part is cheap and easy to swap. Disregard if you have a manual gearbox. Search this forum for DSG thermostat, some nice people have written good guides. 4) The system never really blows really hot or really cold unless the setting at the endpoint. It's designed to mix the air to avoid extremes. Drivers transitioning from Japanese cars (we had a Toyota that would freeze your legs the aircon was so cold) to these cars tend to think that if the air is not hot or cold then it's not really working. That's what superbdreams is pointing out above. The hottest setting on the dial is 'max heat' and just heats as much as possible and doesn't control the temperature. 5) I had one where the wiring to the inside/outside air servo failed so it was stuck on recirculate. The servo was fine, it was the wiring that failed (no idea why, it's never been touched). This was evident as VCDS reported that the servo signal was implausible. Not the same as your issue, my problem was the car windows would fog up in the cold as it wouldn't select outside air. But the wiring can fail unexpectedly.

Con: The roof drips on to the seats when the door is open Con: Plastic on rear passenger doors is crappier than the front doors (and no door approach light in the rear) Con: Harsh white interior lights Con: Some sort of resonance inside on harsh roads and dirt, makes a booming/roaring sound (might be just my configuration) Pro: Great visibility Pro: Easy to park Pro: For a 4cyl, the CZPA engine is smooth and quiet (although not particularly powerful) Pro: Still ran and drove 120km home after being partially submerged and having 6 inches of water sloshing around inside (Not relevant to your story): Con: No diesel with Active info in 'straya Con: Only spacesaver spare available in 'straya (coz it's all that will fit)

I did look at this on mine, the lower fuse position exists but there isn't any metal contact inside. Perhaps other markets have the contact fitted. That would make it really easy. You would not need to clear a code as it's not interactive with the computer. VAG cars have two main power circuits (yes there are more but I'm simplifying). Terminal 15 - Switched on and off with the ignition Terminal 30 - Always powered In my experience (not guaranteed - just based of this being my third VAG car) the top half of the inside fuse box with the larger blade fuses is powered off terminal 30. The lower half with the mini blade fuses is powered off terminal 15. Basically all you're doing is moving the power for the lighter socket from terminal 30 to terminal 15.

You can change the power sockets to be switched easily, just by using a piggyback fuse. I did it on the Kodiaq, it took 5 mins. For the lane assist, turn it off and on twice. E.g.: - use the assist button on the steering wheel - un-tick LA - press back - press assist button - tick LA - Repeat once more My LA cuts out regularly (I think it needs calibration) and if I just enable it once, it will be off again next restart. Enabling it twice means it comes on next start as expected.

AusKodiaq and I are in Victoria, where using the accelerator is considered hooning behaviour and carries a fine and demerits.

Turn off the undertaking protection thingo with VCDS. I don't have the screenshot with me but it's a tick box. Essential for Australia where lane discipline is non-existent.

Kodiaq still has the levelling sensors in the suspension, same as the 3T Superb. Two in the front one in the back. I agree the Superb needed to be put in adaptation mode before adjustment. It seems the Kodiaq might not, this service manual extract page 139 (attached) just sort of says 'do it mechanically'. It talks about using the VAS to perform a test of the motors but doesn't seem to mention the adjustment other than turning the screws. Not conclusive by any means, VAG's documentation is often all over the place and contradictory. Wish we got those cool matrix LEDs. Weirdly, it seems here in AU that the LEDs don't have the washers installed, at least the two Kodiaq's I had do not. Might be a homologation thing. Kodiaq Maintenance.pdf

Apparently in EU the MY20 Kodiaqs will have an option for TPMS direct (wheel pressure sensors) over the TPMS-indirect (use ABS sensors, measure wheel RPM). If you get the bits it works fine in the MY19s too. 5Q0907273B - Controller module thingy 4x 5Q0907275B - Wheel pressure sensor thingies I tapped off the CAN-bus-extended from the rear 'I can't be bothered doing a head check' radar controller. You need ODIS-E or Vag Can Pro for the initial setup to load in the tyre profiles and pressures (I just put in what was on the tyre placard (fuel filler flap). I used a Chinese VAS6514 and ODIS-E 8.1.something and getting it installed with the right driver etc was very painful. I used this excellent tool to generate the XML file that was then uploaded via ODIS-E: http://htmlpreview.github.io/?https://raw.githubusercontent.com/joltcoke/rdks-tool/master/generator.html The instructions were in Spanish, by a chap called XAGICO. If you Bing that you'll find the PDF. I seem to have an issue where the front-passenger sensor comes and goes. I suspect it's a signal strength problem as the other 3 work fine and the front passenger is furthest from the controller module antenna. I'll try to reorient the controller. Would I do it again? Nah, the ones with the little screen in the ciggy-lighter socket work fine (SteelMate has some good ones) and are zero effort (had this in my Superb). ODIS-E scares me (it's an incomprehensible mess UI wise; I think the same people who did IBM Notes did the ODIS UI) and when I flashed the XML file pretty much every warning light came up on the dash and the car beeped and bonged and carried on. You are permitted to make fun of me for using PSI instead of bar.