wokwon

I agree entirely, I turned mine off. You go into central electronics in VCDS and un-tick 'headlight washers installed'. Depending on where you are it might affect your MOT results. We don't have those sort of tests here in Victoria 'Straya (although I wish we did). In my previous car (a MKV Jetta) it wouldn't wash the headlights until the stalk was pulled for an amount of time (I set 4 seconds). So if you didn't hold it in for 4 seconds, it would just wash the window and not the lights. That option disappeared in the version of the CEC on my Superb 2.

Heh, dealer wants it for a 3rd day

My Superb went in yesterday to have the dealer apply the attached TSB. Hopefully that finally sorts the sunroof creaks and rattles. Dealer called last night and said it was taking longer than expected so they needed to keep her overnight. I've got a 1.4 Rapid as a loaner which is quite a nice little car, although the dry 7 sp DSG is rough compared to the 6 speed wet. SunroofNoiseTSB.pdf

Bonus fact: One click on the lock button on the remote will deadlock the doors - the internal handles will not operate the door locks. Double-click the lock button on the remote will lock the outside handles but the interior handles will be able to open the doors. That is what it's referring to with safe lock, i.e., is there anyone (that you like) in the car.

Sounds great, I regularly see Japanese cars driving around after dusk with just DRLs on as their cluster is lit all the time. Seems weird then that VAG has dropped the green 'headlight on' indicator from the Superb 3 cluster.

In AU we call them parking lights. If you park on a dark street you would put them on so the car is visible. It would turn on the two front 5W lamps and the two rear tail lights (also 5W). Total load, 20watts which is 1.5Ah which the battery shouldn't have any trouble running for 10-15 hours and then still starting the car. You can also turn just one side on by leaving the indicator stalk down or up and turning the engine off. That way the current draw is halved.

The reason I think it's lieing is: - When it shows "2" the revs are higher and the clutches are slipping; - When I put it into "M 1" the revs drop, the clutch closes but the road speed is still the same. The "RPM drop but same road speed" thing is what makes me thing it's showing 2 but is actually in 1 and slipping. Maybe it's in some weird space between 1 and 2. One day I'll log K1 and K2 with VCDS and see what's actually happening.

At a guess, your Elegance has the digital amplifier under the passenger seat. Check the plugs/looms in this unit and sniff it to see if the magic smoke as escaped.

In my Superb (MY2013) the gear indicator can lie sometimes. In some slow traffic it will show "2" but is actually in 1st gear and slipping the clutch packs. I know this as if I then place it in manual there is no gear change back to first but the indicator goes back to showing "1". I'm sure a VCDS measuring block would indeed show K1 closed and K2 open if I logged it in this scenario. From what Old Newbie2 said above, they may have altered this behaviour on the newer boxes.

Because some people like to turn it off. In older A-platform cars it used to be labelled "ECON" and when pressed lit up, showing that ECON (i.e. AC-off) was in operation. This was a hint that the normal and default setting (that with no warning lights) is AC-on. Unfortunately many people couldn't get their head around this so it was changed in later revisions to AC-on = indicator lit. The compressor fitted to the Superb 2 (and indeed all VW A-platform cars since 2005) is a variable displacement compressor. Instead of having an electromagnetic clutch that connects or disconnects the drive to the compressor, it instead has a wobble valve that is controlled electromagnetically. The displacement (and therefore performance and engine load) can be adjusted between 2% and 100% of full capacity. The climate control module selects the required compressor output depending on things like cooling demand, outside/inside temperature difference, system high-side and low-side pressure, the risk of evaporator freezing, etc. The control module also turns the compressor back to minimum setting when engine load demand is high (e.g. during overtaking where the accelerator is fully depressed) to ensure that the maximum torque is delivered to the wheels. When you press the AC button to turn it off, the system selects the minimum setting (i.e. 2%). It's never turned completely off and is always spinning while the engine is running.

As far as I know, it's an optical sensor similar to the way an optical smoke detector works. So it would only detect dirty (i.e. less clear air). I don't think it's the ethane etc type sensors as they tend to drift like hell and require frequent recalibration. The recirc flap takes a good 5 seconds to close or open anyway (pull the glovebox out and watch it) so the sensor is of limited benefit and reacts slowly. The dust/pollen filter is much more important.

DSG will be fine, I'm more worried about the ball weight and your 'lowered sports suspension'.

Try This:

Nah, VW has had a problem with this since the MKV Golf (A5 platform). They've not done anything effective to solve it. It's also apparently a common problem with the Superb 3T Combi boot lid loom.

it's all the same module, one module in each door has the window motor, locking servo, outputs for lights etc and for the front doors has further connections for the mirror adjust motors, heaters, blinkers etc. So that module just has power and CAN bus to it and if any of those 4 connections are interrupted then every function of that module will stop working. The module is right where a window winder would be in a manual window car and then drives the door locks via a Bowden cable. I had one fail in a MY07 VW Jetta, replacement was $550AUD including labour at a dealer, however parts in the UK seem to be a lot cheaper as they're not subject to the 'Straya tax.

VWs have always had trouble with the wiring loom in the flexible rubber thingy breaking. This is the wiring between the car body and the door electronigs. This would cause your symptom. Prehaps prise back the rubber thingy and see if the wires are broken.

+1 and you can also use the output tests to command the pump(s) on.

I've had the bluetooth unit in the car freeze before if I get too excited with the menus, but it's always reset itself after about 10 minutes. I assumed there was a watchdog timer in there. I guess you could try rebooting the bluetooth unit. It's under the passenger seat. Just unplug the big harness and plug it back in again.

As long as the radio stays in the car and the ECU isn't changed, it won't ask for a radio code. The Columbus and others uses the CAN bus to interrogate the ECU to ask for the VIN. If the VIN doesn't change, no code prompt.

When the 3T Superb was released, the Passat and Golf of the same time had the rear seatbelt warning. It takes things a while to trickle down from Audi to VW to Skoda, particuarly with VAG's hostility to the re-invented Skoda's success. It's present in the current (Gen3?) Superb.

No the whole thing comes out but it's really easy. Just make sure when you remove the screws (including the one hidden behind the push to open button), that you pull nice and level (horizontal) towards the back of the car. See this PDF on how to remove: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/59721777/PTC%20Install%203T%20Superb.pdf

Passenger side footwell has a rubber bung, it comes out under the battery tray. See my doco in this post (the PDF): http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/220727-option-code-or-part-number-for-ptc-heater-element/?p=3270487

I use my pressure washer in my engine bay, no problem. Have always done this to all my cars and bikes never with any issues. It's not a petrol driven high power pressure washer, just a mains powered one so it's not crazy high pressure anyway. With the Superb having so many plastic covers and stuff the cleaning is mostly cosmetic anyway.