Urrell

PS: I did mine with Carista in a few minutes.

The picture is here on this site. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/383307-sound-deadening-yeti-front-doors/

Greenline does not have a DMF.

I have heard that but cannot see any difference as the same amount of information is on each screen, it just adds an extra page to scroll through.

When you put the car in gear your hand is only a couple of inches from the disable button.

My manual that it came from is November 2014, I don't believe the tyre information was published in later manuals, I would like to be proved wrong on that though.

Yeti UK approved tyre sizes in the manual.

What do you have on it usually, make and size? Mine are Michelin Energy on front and Cross Climate+ on back 205/55 16.

I have done 40,000+ miles in mine and find the ride very good as most others say the 16" wheels and tyres give a better ride than the 17". The Greenline is only 1" lower. For you and yours having the impression it has a crashy ride there has to be something wrong.

The standard torque figures for the 2.0 110 and 1.6 105 engines are exactly the same at 250/1,500-2,500

In the plastic inlet beside the battery.

Could it be part 3 that covers the rear wheel-arch? What is the other side like?

It uses that to know exactly where it is when self parking.

You can set brake assist to 3 settings but your problem seems a lot more dire than that, do you want more or less assist? Asa you will know there are only a couple of things that would cause the pads to back off from the disk and that is a bent disk or very worn wheel bearings.

How much of a top up? Where is it on the dipstick before you add any?

If you had a glow plug issue you would have a fault light up on the dash, probably the engine light not glow plug light, that's what happened to my Greenline when no3 glow plug failed. I take it you have checked the oil level.

I suspect it was the door rubbers sticking and movement of the body when car moving flexed them enough to let door open against the first catch.

That model changed to the Amundsen II in November 2014 so your car must be built prior to that. Mine was built 12 January 2015 and has the later Amundsen II.

I would assume pretty easy, drop down the switch panel and with a multimeter find and disconnect the the roof motor wiring making safe leaving the sun screen motor wiring intact.

Instead of a repair costing up to £3000 why not seal the roof permanently closed from the outside and disconnect the electrics from the roof motor. You would still have a nice glass sunroof and sun blind to close if less light is needed at a fraction the cost of a repair and the knowledge that it would not happen again.

Yes. Your lucky.

Why not just lift the arm rest to a suitable height?

Another thing is I only learnt recently is that cars like my Greenline II run the battery at a lower voltage to leave room for topping up with energy from braking regeneration.

That has nothing to do with coding the battery, if doing it without maintaining a charge the only things lost will be trip mileages and time, just needs time to be entered, there will be a few fault lights but they will clear within a couple of hundred yards. Has your battery got a BEM (Battery Energy Management) code on it?

I doubt if fitting includes BEM coding car to battery if needed, but I think if same power battery used it should be OK if new battery is fully charged when fitted. Have a look on Tayna batteries site, quality makes and very competitive prices. https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/