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Park lights are Ignition off and the indicator stalk down and the one front and one rear sidelight on. Driver side, or passengers side, lit according to the indicator position. Is it when Side Lights / Position lights you mean? DRLS, Daytime / Daylight running lights to the front should not be bright when Side Lights or Sidelights and Headlights are on.

@nta16The OP asked in the other posts about stage 1 for a 1.2 petrol & it is a SE, so it will be a TSI and not a MPI.

@wantaskodaSorry for being stupid, but. Was it sitting unregistered, they register it and allow you to take it away and then you became the keeper 2 weeks later? @Biggles33 Back with your vRS was it in for a service before the MOT and they advised it needed discs, or did it get it,s first MOT and failed on the rear discs, not just an advisory?

@Seasider It actually sits higher on the dipstick cold and all back in the sump. As to thinning, the temperature we are talking here is 90 *oC or so, 'normal operating temp'. Just get the big soup pot out, put in 4 litres of engine oil, mark the level, heat to 90*oc and see how much the level rises, or actually does not. PS. You have a car, dip the oil when cold. Do maybe 10 miles and stop, wait 4 or 5 minutes and dip it. Remembering to wipe the cloth, see where the oil is. Nothing difficult there, if in the same place or different then post which way, up or down. This is for 'Mericans' in the UK one the gal never mentions the engine / oil being hot. (There is one from NZ for Skoda where the check is shown being done with the engine running..)

In that case it might as well just be a cold dip, with all the oil in the sump since the last time it was stopped / parked. So for different engines try yourself the stone cold dip, or the at operating temperature and after a few minutes. (Note they say a few, not 4 or 5, but a few is not 15 minutes) If the level is the same stone cold and at operating temperature then no need to ever do that checks after you have run the engine. Remember that with different engines there can be the Oil filter up top, and with others the oil filter down low.

Welcome. Sorry no idea on your heating. Hopefully someone with the knowledge / experience will ne along. As to the radiator fan, that is likely your TDI doing a regen.

There is a thread in the Octavia MK2 section on converting to a Scout as in more Offroader. The links are there to kit from 'Darkside'. They did there Yeti Offroader project and videos.

It is not much of a Service you will get if just an Oil & Inspection Service. So what has the Servicing been at the 3 years, was the brake fluid changed or tested, or are you having this done this time. Did it get a Pollen Filter at 2 years and is it getting one at the next service, or will you check / replace? Spark plugs maybe changed next year. Look see at the air filter and see how it is, clean / dry. Maybe give it a vacuum, same with the pollen filter. Have the Service Indicator reset to Variable / Flexible. 24 months, 18,000-20,000 miles. EDIT.

@andrewclark55 You want to go where they have All the gear and more than ideas. Proper Master Techs. http://autohausedinburgh.co.uk

Skoda CZ had WARM in owners manuals when SEAT, VW & AUDI had HOT for the exact same engines. Then there were some that had Normal Operating Temperature, or at Operating Temperature.

@Graham Butcher 'British Lawyer & Engineer'. He is British and an Engineer & a Lawyer'. Is he a Lawyer as in Qualified in Britain or maybe South Africa or elsewhere. Not important he is what he says he is, but kind of interesting because language matters.

When i heard the gate i looked out and thought maybe a delivery driver handing in the keys for an extended test drive & there might be an Audi card with £800 credit. No such luck, just the postie.

A time served Motor Engineer actually, sometimes called a Mechanic who also became a Vehicle Sprayer. Not a Technician or Fitter. PS. The OP posted back in June. So for anyone else. Wipe the dipstick. Check cold, and check at Normal operating temperature of the engine / engine oil. Because warm can give a different reading. It is hardly complicated.

A Kia Nitro EV, or PHEV or Mild Hybrid are fwd and rear discs rusting will depend very much on if a driver uses much braking and location location location. My Corsa Electric had 2 set of replacement discs in 3 years. It did 60,000 miles but I hardly use the brakes. They were red with rust on the rear from lack of use. My 5 month old MINI Electric with over 5,000 miles has the brakes scrapping all the time now. They corroded badly in the last month. They might well need replacing before it gets to the 2 year brake fluid change or 25,000 mile service.

3 minutes running is not 1.0tsi at normal operating temperature. The oil temp indicator will not be showing 50*oC let alone over 80 to 90 *oC.

Something flashed up on my phone that I will read properly later. About VW group putting off the Launch of the ID2 , the under £25,000 car. The one that needs new battery technology and guess at global markets to know the RRP of. Does this mean holding back on small EV,s from Skoda and Seat as well? PS . Watering down of the Euro 7 emissions by the EU will be really the crux of the matter. They can still build and sell smaller ICE vehicles and make money.

In you opinion . As far I was concerned the wiping is fine. As to the telling you if too high or too low then it is a good indication. Just remember to have the oil hot to get a good check. Cold for seeing there is oil before firing up an engine.

Continental all season contacts at about £158. Not much on offer right now.

I read manuals. I understand the wording and areas A, B and C. Plenty threads on here from those that do not read the owners manual. Skoda used to say WARM, they also correctly said only engines checked cold were 1.2 44kW engines. These had an oil capacity of 2.8 litre.

@wooly4228 is that done as the Owners manual tells? Engine at normal operating temperature and stopped on the flat and checked after a few minutes. So not a cold check. At around an indicated 90*oC and after maybe 4 or 5 minutes. The OP,s was of a few minutes tick over is an issue and why so many cars after a service have not enough oil in. Full time mechanics / fitters that says it makes no difference. It makes all the difference with some. Cold check or hot check. Not a WARM check. PS. As to not showing a message on r low oil light anymore. That is because opening the bonnet can put them off for 100km / 62 miles. Even if you do nothing.

Welcome. As to averaging 80 mpg. Was that an indication on an 80 mile or so trip. It could not go for 240 miles stating with a full charge and only use 3 gallons could it?

They are fantastic as long as the doors have not frozen shut. Remote start and preheating a car from a phone app when you are not yet outside is even better. Available with some ICE vehicles and with most BEV,s and PHEV,s

Hopefully very easy to find the source where the noise and behaviour is from and someone listening or driving the car does in a matter of minutes. Anyone here can make an educated guess. I can not as I have not driven a manual car since the 1970,s.

Simply clever if Governments and councils make the use of public owned land straight forward and planning has no delays.

I just heard the story on the radio about BT in Scotland starting to convert Street side Green Cabinets that will be surplus to requirements to EV chargers. I just had a quick search and I see articles on this around the UK. The radio said this could be up to 60,000 units. I take it that is UK wide. Location location location and next to the road and not the far side of pavements. If BT have a company set up for this then good. Maybe connections and communications to get charging started could be less if an issue than currently it is at some chargers in Scotland.