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The dealer or employee at the dealer is quite possibly wrong. Was it a sales person or at the Service Desk? Do they never just get into a car they sell and try one, then try another? The car can be parked in N. You might need to to service the car, or for any reason. You need it in N if you want to turn the front wheels and not have them locked by the Pawl. Read the Owners Manual. The car starts in N or P, but not in N if minus 10*oC. Unless things have changed with DQ200 DSG,s.

I had a run early up to the hills and back to deliver some newspapers. 8*oC and calm & misty, 12*oC coming back. I will see next week as a comparison with the efficiency. Maybe as much as 10 degrees cooler in a wees time. Sorry camera must have had condensation on. Lots of campers about and getting up, nobody on the roads other than wildlife. Living and dead, lots of dead hedgehogs. 3.6 mile / kWh up & 4.6 coming back. 38 mile round trip.

The coolant getting up to temp in a TSI and then the engine oil is hardly going to be speeded up with insulation under the bonnet. (Noisy diesels not speeded up either, but maybe less noisy.) In countries where it is much colder than -5*oC in the south of the UK or anyplace in the UK there are people that put Grill / Radiator covers on. But then they might have -20*oC or lower all day and night and not cold at start up and later on a lovely warm day.

It was a thread from one member with a very real issue. It showed nothing other than they had an issue. Obviously there are thousands happy, maybe many un-happy that do not come to forums. The one thread is here for someone that has a similar issue, maybe the same engine and gearbox even.

I would use a Tesla in Norway or an i3 since that is the cars family have to lend. (i cant drive Left Hand Drive though, the roads and my brain is the issue, not the cars.) I would use a Polestar in Scotland if getting one, but then there is plenty charging facilities for charging, but sadly not easy enough for those hiring to get to and use it seems be it with the cars sat nav or the Charge Place Scotland App which most are looking at while trying to figure out why chargers will not start when they press START CHARGE. Usually it is because it is GREY and not BLUE. Communications poor and the Charger / System thinks the last user is still on it, or there is another issue. They end up doing the charger dance if there are other chargers to use. I tell them when there is a Contactless payment option' use that not the App. In some cases they have no CPS account anyway so can not use the app to start chargers. So i have shown people how to register a card for payment and as quick as i can exolain to someone in the car how it works and that they might need to find PodPoints or InstaVolt or even a BP Pulse. & these BP Pulse they are trying in Edinburgh are CPS but tap the card and you are paying the Edinburgh City 55 pence tariff. It is easier / quicker / more chance of the charger starting. ............. This looks good. Free to charge. Available. START CHARGE. The thing is it is occupied,. by me and it was a RFID / CPS card that started it. Usually it is GREY and can not be started with an APP even when un-occupied.

What a load of nonsense. Scarmongering. It was the oil supplied to top up that was wrong. I just told him what the correct oil was and told him he had got that at the service. Read the thread. Start with the post. The OP is from 2017 & is about a Mk2 vRS and the oil. There is no scaring anyone. The engines are what the engines are with the failure rate they have. The engine service code was for Fixed Servicing until changed later on to variable / flexible. The Recommended oil for fixed or variable serving from VW Group is Long Life oil. You can use Fully Synthetic oil that is not long life. The same thing with the spark plugs, there was the OEM then a change and at dealers and servicing owners got told all sorts. People here are grown up,s, they can do as they please, they can carry on as things were going on and having to ask here what oil to use. I make my suggestions, say why. They can ignore as an when they want. Telling people that just use what the manufacturer says is what kept going on and the engines kept failing. People including dealership staff were saying 1 litre oil in 1,000 km used was OK. The figure in manuals was actually 0.5 litres in 1,000 km / 621 miles, Every little thing was important and it was just a case of watching and not running low oil levels. Nothing in this was to do with 1.2 TSI,s or other engines. Other than they were changed in 2012, got different oil filters and a different oil capacity. Still the VW504 00 / 507 00 long life oil recommended by VW or the VW502 00 for fixed services,

@numskullreally the 40,000 mile interval is perfectly fine in the UK and other world regions.

No they don't. Driver / passenger front and windscreen only. Now there is the impossible to see into front screens about though. Just horrible IMO and i have no style or taste.

Be brave, go for it. It might well look like a private ambulance / funeral directors car but fill your boots. Night vision is no worse than driving a van and there are lots of van drivers. What is the worst that can happen, maybe a hard stop by Police Scotland officers and they shoot you dead.

They are not all sh!ts, and you see it as you see it or experience it and you might get bent over and taken like a king. Not everyone does with Skoda / VW UK. More and more customers / buyers are though.

Get a grip. Like the mickey muppet road show here re-writing history. It is advice simply that with CAVE engines the 5w 40 FS had them run a couple of degrees cooler, get the oil up to temperature, be sure to give the engines a good blast before parking up because 1 plug oils, gets carbon build up and starts to disintigrate. Skoda changed the OEM plugs after 18 months, different gap. and they were still sh1ite, they did software changes twice, they did 2 breather mods then revised the engines and still ballsed up late 2012 early 2013. Then eventually came up with oil spray jet changes. Rejected cars that Skoda bought back and sold as oil users were fine with Oil changes, a different oil filter, spark plugs and a remap. I bought some and did exactly that, sold them and followed their history. It was not rocket science and no help was forthcoming from here, it was Audi Techs that got the technical information first. The cars were a lottery from new, but simple no additional expense with consumables could help your chances. Somepeople bothered to try and help, and some were of no more help than the Main Dealership employees. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/421365-links-to-lucifers-ultimate-guide-to-14tsi-twincharger-engines

Experience from a child with an engineer father and haulage company family, and cars, karts, bikes, racing, working on engines, tuning, and having family in the engineering and tuning and racing business if you don't mind. You just make up your mind on what you think you know and want to post.

My advice has never harmed anyone's engine and i go hundreds of miles or spend hours to help people, some are even grateful. i doubt you would pee on them if they were on fire. You talk from no knowledge of them. You take your engineering and motorsport knowledge and just waste it with your crap attitude. Never actually bothered to see where the failures were with these engines or the hundred of members that here had one or 2. See which the members and others had with failures and with which plugs and whech breather mod or software update or ECU change done from 2009-2012 or 2012-2014. If you had actually ever opened the bonnet of one of these cars, done any servicing or seen what the issues were you might be helping. There are less than 3,000 of them in the UK from Skoda and too many have failed. It is simple things and little things that can sort them out. Sadly there are too many dealership techs that never bothered their backside to find out what. Factory trained my arse. Follow the manufacturers line and the person that suffers is the car owner, or the next poor one or the one after that because they get duff gen. like your duff gen.

First is Heavy Good vehicles working to and from ports / harbours, Free Ports where there is hydrogen being produced and vehicles doing shorter runs that are using hydrogen and in forests and estates there are logging lorries being trialled, then there are the bus fleets already running on hydrogen like in Aberdeen. (Or not running as issues arise). Commercial vehicles are operating in Fife running on hydrogen, but then in Dundee the Council fleet is going Electric. The mix is needed, location location location and horses for courses.

There is a very quick grown number of light commercial EV Vans, Taxi / Minibuses & Private MPV,s around now and with 75 kWh plus sized batteries and these might be getting parked up at 7 or 11 kW AC chargers but more are needing charged during journeys or during the working day, maybe over a lunch time or before heading home to park up and ready for the next day. Around my local vicinity and on my travels these are doing lots of sitting on chargers 'Long time mister'. Lots of Polestar hire cars around Scotland and the hirers seem amazed that they are only getting on a 50 kW possible, and possibly not. Then there are these ridiculous Range Extender Taxis and Commercials like even the PodPoint techs have that do not have 22 kW AC charging and these techs are supposed to travel the likes of a couple of hundred miles from the Perth / Dundee area all the way north. (Each way a couple of hundred miles.) A bit of a horlicks sadly. Good that the southern areas are improving because the top 1/4 of the British Mainland is not. I have not asked people what the Polestar costs to hire in the Central belt but if they get on CPS chargers they are paying 55 pence a kWh around there, then from around 35, 41, 47 pence in the different council areas and by the time they are at Inverness & North / Highland Region 87 pence a kWh. Why you would take a EV i have no idea, but then maybe they believe there are more free chargers. Getting on commercial chargers & ultra rapid will be 62 pence, 70 or 75 pence and up to 79 pence even £1 a kWh.

I would not let Halfords service or blow up tyres on a push bike, let alone fit wiper blades. Go where there are people not just with the gear and ideas, but nothing between the ears.

@sepulchrave Great to see your input again. Like with spark plugs, like with things like DSG,s. The usual slag the engines or gearboxes and say follow hw manufacturers recommendations or your recommendations. You are a smart guy with some terrible advice that can cost others but is no skin off your back. Well the thing was there were many engine design and engineering faults and issues with consumables and software and many a brilliant mind got no place much with the issue. The one simple issue is the 3.6 litres oil capacity which is a mistake. The 5w 40 FS oil was just fine in the temperature range. If there is as much detergent in it as in the long life then that is not an issue. The issue with the first 50 cars in the UK was that many were demonstrators or media cars and were used hard from day one, had the oil not checked til the Low oil Warning light or Low Oil pressure light came on. That could be when the oil was down 1/3 of the 3.6 oil capacity. So the Long Life oil might have jack-sh!t to do with anything, but stopping using it cost nothing, but plenty found it beneficial.

Long story short. Just forget that Halfords health check and go get one someplace else, maybe ATS Euromaster or if you are up their way, book in at Victoria Garage Maud. AB42 4NP

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/294051-cave-cthe-14tsi-just-reply-please-if-you-have-had-an-engine-replaced The Lucifers Guides are in a thread pinned at the top of this section for anyone interested in issues with Twinchargers. @briscaF1 The failures of 1.4 TSI / TFSI 132 / 136 ps Twincharger engines has been greater than 20%, not that VW Group will ever give the figures of failures that have required rebuilds, short units and base engines under warranty from them or on vehicles out of warranty. So no there is no proof and it might not be responsible. But stopping using it, and using plugs other then the OEM have saved engines that were getting to be pretty high oil users. But the issue is that the Long life oil and the super unleaded and the issues with Twinchargers and bore wash among them means it might well be of no benefit if you are doing fixed service intevals anyway. Then there are the Euro 5 1.8 & 2.0 TSI failures prematurely and that is not oil related, but actually not using Long Life oil does no harm with these for many that stopped using the Recommended 5w 30 FS III.

These days you need not even been near the car and for you or someone else you can turn on the AC or heating at whatever you left it set at. (I have not had the use of a car that you can turn up or down the heat remotely, but there will be ones.) You can open or close the sunroof or windows. It is lovely stuff, only issue for me with Vauxhall & Peugeot was needing to go check if what you wanted to do had worked or if it was going to please its self what happened.

I have had them on Offroaders for years because of sitting about at events or just in poor weather and needing air in vehicles. For an EV if you are sitting in while charging then you might have heating, AC, heated seats and your have no power issues, but windows open make a difference if needed, Wind deflectors are perfect for that.

If you cross the channel and the roads are good and you are fully loaded and up above 100 mph and it is around 125-130*oC you will still be fine. If you are towing a caravan in the UK in this weather and it is up about that you are still fine. Just out of interest & unrelated but how many miles has your car done, and has the Haldex been serviced correctly every 3 years / 30,000 miles? So at least twice.

Welcome. Not very high then above the normal indicated 92 *oC or so. 110*oC indicated must mean you have good oil, a good oil level and the weather was not too hot, or you were not going that quick or the car loaded, as in it was about where it should be, and if it goes higher it should come back down to there, and as you slow and the fans do their job it drops again to near the 92*oC indicated.

@lol-lolNot much from using AC, but it does depend how many degrees you are asking it to reduce the interior temp, is it bringing 26 *oC down to 16*oC or maybe not 10 degrees just 5 degrees. But that is as it has been with many vehicles, ICE or EV. The thing is if you have 200 miles range showing and put on AC & it then shows 194 miles, no big deal. If you have a small battery and maybe not a EV only model car but something built from an ICE model the 5 miles or even 10 miles drop in range can happen. As it is in warm weather no big deal. If you need AC just to keep the windscreen clear then it is about poor design / engineering. @cheeZeygrinI have been sitting this week charging with windows open AC on as no breeze. I sit charging heater on and windows a bit often in lots of weather including winter conditions. But that is where wind deflectors are important when it is peeing down or snowing. I am seriously going to miss Wind Deflectors & regret having a car that as the windows drop as the frameless door opens water pours in if it is raining.

This MOST EV drivers, is the issue. MOST EV Drivers might not be charging at home, have a smart meter or wall box, and if they are charging at home might need to use a 3 pin charger. Even if just for weeks or months because getting chargers can be a fiasco not explained at Car Dealerships. It is good for the basics, and to give people the general idea. But to stress the Full tanks and batteries, then show the 34.5 kWh @ 30 pence a kWh. The 64 kWh was going to be OK for 205 miles, but you would want on to a charger by 190 miles at the latest if doing such poor efficiency. So if you were to want not just 100 mile of a charge as in 31 kWh but 150 miles so 45 kWh it is going to cost you. As it is, not their money, paid to do it, not that far off being correct, but then if you do the same trip, week in week out, or a few times a week you will be doing it cheaper than that and not paying 75 pence a kWh at InstaVolt. Maybe not driving in ECO either when you know how to drive efficiently. 3.2 miles a kWh might be expected with passengers and stuff in a Niro EV.