Breezy_Pete

Yes, one of the output tests in the HVAC module I think.

The fans help cool the aircon condenser irrespective of coolant temperature in the main radiator. Refrigerant pressure triggers fan activity at low or full speed as required, sensed by sensor G65. In ambient temperatures like we have had in the last day or two, switching on A/C set to minimum temperature should bring the radiator fans on at low speed within less than a minute from cold start at a standstill, I think. Do you have VCDS?

Are the radiator fans working at both speeds? I should think a high proportion of cars this age have one or more fan faults unless work has been done since manufacture.

First you register and login. Then from the homepage drop the Individual Vehicle Information tab down and pick Repair Information; then choose your model (Fabia 3). Then pick Info Medium = Repair manuals; then choose Power Transmission, then the one(s) you need, the fifth one in the list for your engine in a mk3 Fabia by the looks of it. Click on that link then you'll see a button that says Order flat rate, go there and pay your money and then you'll get a download button for that pdf. Can't remember if you have to navigate back to that page or it just appears with the download button.

I'm surprised there's nothing helpful there. You can get the official workshop manual for your engine via erWin Skoda for under a tenner. Not quite as user friendly as Haynes but should be reliable info.

Have you tried YouTube?

What a bunch of crooks.

Perhaps the OP could comment on likely weight of roof box contents, so we know if there's any relevance.

Nobody asked for advice about heavy loads on the roof, it's merely size being asked about. Just saying.

I don't know if that's possible. If the engine really did overheat due to fan malfunction or water pump problem, you would lose coolant from the expansion tank I think, as the pressure would cause the cap to release steam. Is that happening?

Now I'm on a big screen I can say that if the car has A/C then battery fusebox fuse 9 (5 Amp blade fuse) supplies an ignition switched 12V to the fan control module (pin 1 of the 6-way connector). Battery fusebox blade fuse number 8 (30 Amp) powers the low speed fans' function via one of the fan control module's relays, in on pin 3 of the 4-way connector, out on pin 2. Strip fuse number 3 (40A) powers high speed fan function via the other relay inside the module, in on pin 1 out on pin 4 of the 4-way. Earth connections to both fans are directly from the 3-way rectangular connectors nearest the fan motors, to a chassis earth point nearby.

Does the car have air conditioning?

The thin strip fuses, yes, but there are also a few more further over, under a cover that unclips. You can see wires going to them, but not the fuses until the cover is removed towards the firewall.

The ones above the battery, including the blade fuses that hide under a plastic cover?

You need to have a paid 'Freedom' membership to post in the for sale/classifieds area.

The first thing to check is the relevant fuses. I can look up which those are a little later for you. Another thing to be aware of is that the fans shouldn't come on until the coolant at the thermoswitch is above 96C, and the thermoswitch is after the radiator in flow terms.

What's the fault code that the garage have read?

Check the starter solenoid wire, just where it goes into the single pin connector housing. I suspect you'll find it's almost or actually broken.

Good news, well done. Bet it feels good having fixed it yourself too.

Find the nearest VCDS owner who preferably has experience of similar engines to yours.

VCDS owners MAP - Diagnostics & VCDS - BRISKODA

The green ring is what (and all) it should have on your car. If the TB has been removed, it is possible that it's not been put back properly and is now leaking past the ring. There are two locating pegs that go into holes in the alloy of the TB. These holes can furr up with oxide over time making the TB hard to remove and hard to replace properly. Cleaning this oxide away so the locating pegs fit in easily is the answer. Make sure the four mounting screws go back into the original threads in the plastic too, by turning them anticlockwise until they drop into the existing thread, then doing them up.

Independent inspector sounds like an excellent move to me.

Good plan. Makes footwell-based work far easier, and takes very little time to do. Make sure you use the correct XZN bit, they're not Torx.

Recirc mode must be better as long as switched on before hot zone.