Breezy_Pete

If you do replace microswitch plus wiring all the way back to the solder joints, check the connector pins for play while you're there. May be hard to see cracked joints, as the whole board is covered in some sort of varnish, but wiggling the connector relative to the board may cause something to catch your eye. Here's one with varnish scraped away from the incoming earth pin: 20200910_155143.mp4

Accelerator pedal connections as follows: Pin 1 at pedal grey/black to ECU pin 13 2 at pedal yellow/green to ECU 15 3 grey/red to 74 4 white/blue to 53 5 grey/blue to 8 6 brown/blue to 54 Pins 2, 3, 4 are labelled 5V, - and s (signal, presumably) respectively for sensor 1 on the pedal. 1, 5, and 6 are labelled 5V, - and s respectively for sensor 2. I guess this one would be the "throttle sensor/switch B" that your fault code references.

Gimme ten minutes.

I did have a quick look but nothing leapt off the page that would explain your new faults. I think that your idea about other wires near to the 'work area' being damaged is the best one to pursue.

Charge the battery unless it is already showing a healthy off-load voltage. Is the interior of the car damp?

I'm confused by that. There's only one oil pressure switch isn't there, so how can there be two threshold pressures?

I don't understand the reference to Lotus/Mini?

Yep 6q0199555AT.

I think it's the second item 9 here: mounting parts for engine and transmission - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2012 year] (7zap.com) 6Q0199555AT Unless your engine is CLMA code, which I've never heard of, in which case it's the first item 9.

I'd say it's very likely to be the battery at that age.

The pipe between EVAP purge valve and intake manifold is another, but from you description of the breather module to intake manifold pipe it sounds like that is the most likely problem. Also, the metal pipe between EGR valve and intake manifold can be considered a vacuum hose.

I went to one of the best house parties in my life in Swansea, but haven't ever thought of moving there. I'll have a think and look at the circuits again tomorrow.

That hose must be airtight at both ends.

That seems to explain the problem. Any sign of corrosion at the loom connector contact?

Seems to be alternating between lovely blue sky and peeing down here. Sounds like you may have the same.

Yes No.

Directly. Can you have another look at the pin 92 situation, particularly with respect to the wire colour as it seems critical that you have checked the voltage on the correct wire at the ECU loom connector.

Terminal 30 is everything connected to battery positive. This fault code is consistent with the wire to pin 92 problem, I suspect.

Go here Waterpump for mk1fabia 2002 sdi. - Skoda Fabia Mk I - BRISKODA

Pretty sure it's only that black cable on the right-most fuse that's going to the alternator output stud.

You're welcome. Wish we lived closer so I could have a look with you. Unplugging the ECU and having ignition on with it unplugged will be the reason for the multiple fault codes, and you did the right thing in just deleting them. Not sure if it's possible to see easily, but if it is, can you confirm that the wire going to pin 92 is the colour(s) I said on page 1? Just wanting to be sure you were on the right pin of the loom connector when measuring.

Are you sure the battery end of it doesn't go to the right-most of the strip fuses?

I'll have to take your word for that. Pity you didn't post a few hours ago, I have a workmate with the same engine in the same car, I could've had a look at his.

Alternator current capability won't have been an issue. If the thick cable is high resistance you will lose volts from one end to the other, and whatever the alternator does the battery won't get enough volts to charge. Is there any sign of overheating/melting of stuff at the battery-end connection? I reckon an ebay supplier, or a local motor factors will make you a suitable cable for not much money. I think the cable thickness required is 25 square mm. You (or your mechanic) would need to define the crimp sizes for each end (probably M8 at alt, M6 at fuse) and an approximate length.