Breezy_Pete

I think it initiates a short calibration period for the next few minutes of driving. Within that time period it will work out average relative wheel speeds for each wheel, presumably ignoring times when there's steering input. Then it must store these average numbers for future comparison.

Do you know what level of battery drain your Bluetooth thing causes? Does it come with any such info? It may well be negligible, but as a plug-in thing that's presumably permanently powered it's worth knowing. Or is it self-powered with its own battery?

I'm forever confusing the two...

Pop the cork back in now !

Quite likely, I think. Seen that type of fastener head before on a Vauxhall. E skt tool needed, I think. I have a set of them somewhere.

Taking the front off the car may be the way to increase working room hugely without vast effort?

Different to what I've had dealings with, sorry. The horizontal-axis rear- facing black headed things look odd, not sure what they are?

You need to transfer the immobiliser chip from old to new fob. It's in the bit nearest the key blade. Little (delicate!) glass tube.

Do you still have the original springs that you took off? The sequence of paint colour marks on them are the easiest way to identify the part numbers. There will be a few different possibilities.

Regarding the drive flange removal, I think it just enables a straight-line path outwards for the gearbox as it comes off. Otherwise that flange catches the gasket between block and bell housing and you have to battle much harder to get it clear (and back on when re-fitting).

I like watching his videos from time to time, but he does make me feel very incapable! Pick up some good tips and tools/equipment ideas though so it's worth the humiliation..

You don't say what year the car is, but the first wiring diagram (2008>) I've looked at suggests that one of them is orange/brown and goes to pin 7 of the 28-way at the A-pillar, the other is orange/black, going to pin 8. I doubt it would work right if they were crossed over.

The cleanliness of that car is surreal.

Yeah, I'd think it would have discs all round. Rear wheel bearings are much easier than fronts to do, fronts need some special tooling.

Fair play, hope it turns out to be a good one. Sounds promising.

See if condition of interior tallies with claimed mileage. 4k/yr miles average over 15 years seems quite 'unusual'. Price seems highish to me for a fifteen year old car too, but can still be a good deal if the thing is in great shape.

I had trouble with machine operators last time I got the Fabia recharged. I knew I had some leaky o-rings in the high pressure side of the circuit, so asked the boss man to make sure to only empty the system, give me the car back to do the o-rings, then I'd bring it back for them to vac down again and refill. Sounds easy, right? It didn't quite go that way, but we got there in the end.

I suppose it's adding dye to the refrigerant and using that to leak location test is what's frowned upon, if you know there's a leak.

I seem to remember reading that positive pressure dry nitrogen leak testing is only done if vacuum isn't held sufficiently, and that dye is frowned upon these days for some reason. @Tech1e have I got that anywhere near correct?

Well that's good news. The window motor modules on later mk1s are only data-connected to one another, and not to anything central. So if they do have a glitch there's no 'supervisor' to step in and say "hey WTF are you guys doing?"

Any chance that rainwater may have found it's way into the control panel in the door recently, say by a window being left open? Other than that I can only think it may be an earth wire or something busted in the door bellows area, between door and A-pillar connectors.

Part number N90892101, any dealer should be able to get them for you. Ebay may also offer some but probably more expensively.

This hasn't been my experience, and I did a couple of things at lunchtime to double-check, though I got a bit confused at the time. First thing I did was hook up VCDS and a pressure gauge simultaneously with ignition only on, engine off. I saw 5.6 bar on the gauge and 5.4 bar reported by VCDS (Lite, registered). Because I was confused about what went where, this was actually the low side gauge/pressure, but with system off and not run recently, I believe that doesn't matter. Then I battled like hell to unplug the connector from G65 and plugged it into a brand new, genuine G65 that was hanging free in the atmosphere. VCDS said 0.0 bar. When I did actually run the engine with both gauges connected, VCDS reported a pressure lower than did the high-side gauge (about 1.2 bar lower). As far as I can see this is the opposite of what you'd expect if there was indeed a mismatch in reporting scales. I suspect that the <£40 manifold set is poorly calibrated.

Sounds like you've grasped it.

See if the level continues to drop over time, below minimum. You may find that it does not drop any further.