Breezy_Pete

Maybe you've got a different version of the handbook to the one I'm looking at, is there not a section on page 48 with heading "Operational Faults", or is that what you're looking at? Do the windows currently do anything via key in door twist and hold? If not; disconnect the battery for a few minutes then try after reconnection. I think it's more of a reset than just restoring one-touch operation, when done via key rather than buttons inside. It's a bit weird as written, because it doesn't seem to make sense unless the windows are currently open, maybe a bit 'lost in translation'. Have a play around. Maybe if the windows do work briefly from the buttons after battery reconnection, open them fully, then try this key in door stuff from there? Never had to do it on our '05 mk1 TBH, which has the same technology window motors, and that's had many battery disconnects. Not sure if our manual has that section. @xman has posted about having to do this occasionally on a mk2 Fabia, I think. Maybe he can clarify. Or search his posts for the word reset.

Please let us know if it works, or doesn't.

Read and try the reset procedure in the handbook, it may be all you need to do.

2 or 4 electric windows in the car?

The window motor modules on your car are connected to each other by LIN bus (a cheaper, simpler alternative to CAN). They don't, as far as I can see, have any data/comms connection to the rest of the car's systems, including diagnostic interfaces. So they're not the easiest things to fault find, and are invisible to VCDS and code readers, I believe. Has the battery gone flat or been disconnected recently, prior to the trouble starting? There's a line or two in the owner's handbook about a reset procedure involving turning key in door lock stuff. The driver's door module is the LIN master, the others slaves.

I expect it'll be fine, but check the owner's handbook for instructions on connecting chargers before doing it again. Did the car have very little use prior to the flat battery problem?

Your charging system probably doesn't work the way you're expecting it to. The car has start-stop, I imagine? There may be nothing wrong but you can indeed do the two checks you suggest. (Carefully) measuring voltage at the output stud of the alternator relative to chassis ground will tell you what voltage it's putting out, and you can measure continuity through the strip fuse if that voltage is significantly different to that measured across the battery posts. If you do have start-stop, you'll have an EFB or AGM type battery, and the charge management system actively avoids charging these to 100% charge; so having charged it with external energy, it may be that the alternator isn't being asked to charge it yet.

Is it the 6-valve HTP where the spark plugs and coils stick out forwards? Or 12-valve where they are central/vertical in the head?

It might be if it disconnects a crash sensor and thereby causes a failure of an airbag to deploy if the owner doesn't get it fixed promptly.

Seems like it's irrelevant anyway now, but if the boot socket is permanently powered I think it would be effectively the same connection. Unless the fuse box cover has some relevance (electrical interlock?) other than accessing the places mentioned, which seems unlikely.

If the A/C hasn't got any (or not much) refrigerant I'm not sure it would try to switch on the fans at all? I think it's different to what I'm used to, having a pressure switch rather than a sensor, so I'm not sure. If it also doesn't come on until the same high temperature, and it has three wires coming from its motor, then yes, probably.

Consider repairing the low speed function of the fan with an external power resistor, as a salvage yard fan may well have the same problem, if that is the problem. Radiator fan repair, courtesy of Vortex, here and UK-MKIV forum - Handy Topics & Guides - BRISKODA

Does the owners manual specifically prohibit connecting a charger via the boot socket? I would expect it to forbid connecting directly to the battery posts, but you wouldn't be doing so by charging via the boot socket, I suspect.

That seems like the easiest way to confirm one way or the other. Seems like a crazy design for the 12V battery not to get at least trickle charged when the car is plugged in, but I suppose there may be a valid reason for not doing so.

Maybe change the title to Rubbish OE Wiring?

@Llanigraham nailed the diagnosis nicely on this one.

That does look better, but if you can clean the flat contact faces of the crimps, and the strip fuse, with a little brass-wire brush or similar prior to doing up the nuts, it'll be good.

One of the two-ways will be to A/C compressor, the other for alternator signals. The four way takes these wires onwards to their final destinations, I guess. I was thinking you could leave all of that stuff in place, cut off both ends of the thick cable and just tyrap a replacement thick cable to the existing loom. Do the end crimps of the thick cable on what you have bought look to be in better condition than yours? Compare colour of the battery fuse end crimp to your discoloured/overheated-looking one from the photo above. Is the replacement shinier, like the other wires' crimps going to the other strip fuses?

Looks like 3B0973702 is the housing part number, but ebay results aren't as helpful as I predicted. A few used ones with only short wires. De-pinning your existing one, and inserting some repair wires may be the way to go. I think the part number for a 500mm double ended repair wires is 000979131EA e.g. Audi VW Skoda Seat Repair Pipe 000979131ea (selectively GILT) | eBay Cut that in half and just be careful to mimic the existing pinout polarity. May be cheaper and quicker to buy from a TPS or dealer locally.

There will usually be a VW group part number on the connector housing. It may take magnification to be able to read it, but if you can, stick that number into the ebay search box and usually you will get results for both bare connector kits (housing plus crimp inserts, plus seals where applicable) and pre-wired connectors. If you can, buy the prewired and splice that into the existing loom beyond the 'bending area'.

Better to let them read the fault code(s) first, and tell you what they are and what they think will solve it.

Still don't get it, sorry. Was it anything to do with ABS? Or just that police cars of the time wouldn't be able to catch said cars?

The door open switch (on the outside, rather than one of the PCB mounted ones) just shorts pin 8 of the connector to pin 7 (earth), whenever the door is open.

Scan for the fault code(s). Probably one ignition coil failing.