Breezy_Pete

Looks like I was partly wrong and you were more correct than I thought. This from the Self Study Programme on these engines: "Intake air temperature sender G42 and intake manifold pressure sender G71 supply signals to enable the engine control unit to be able to compute the necessary injection time as well as the ignition timing point." I guess in the same way as vacuum advance used to modify distributor function back in the olden days. I'll check the wiring info now.

No, not much to do with spark timing, that's the crank sensor. MAP sensor measures air pressure and temperature in the intake manifold, which aids calculation of fuelling quantity (injector duration). Doubt there's anything wrong with the engine ECU, can help you with wiring info later.

Fair play. I'm pretty sure that both AWY and BMD engine use simple binary sensors (rather than wideband) for both pre- and post-cat so as long as you can get the wiring right it should work.

Just marketing.

Dunno, sorry. Could be a different plug on the end, different cable length, different technology, anything. Research via google images or photos in ebay listings of genuine parts for each number.

That appears to be the part number that suits a BMD engine rather than AWY, see amongst the item 12 selection here( view on computer not phone to see all info: engine control unit; lambda probe; knock sensor; i... - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2003 year] (7zap.com)

Bear in mind that changing sensors that aren't faulty could make things worse if you buy cheapo stuff from the likes of ECP.

I think that puts your coolant temperature sensor in the clear, although the thermostat might be causing it to take longer than it should to warm up. How many miles did you drive before the gauge needle hit vertical? I suggest you leave it, drive it normally and scan the engine ECU every couple of weeks to see if anything returns. If there is a real fault, rather than e.g. a sooty lambda sensor, it'll make itself known in time with a warning light.

@Bertie90 a few questions to establish the state of play of what's on the car right now: Does the car just have front electric windows? Manual windows in rear doors? What is the part number of the window module in the front passenger door? If you do just have front electric windows I expect it will be either 6Y1959802 or 6Q1959802E? What is the part number of the window module in the front driver's side door?

Are they currently the same - 1 white, 1 yellow spot on both sides of the car? VIN won't do anything in 7zap as it's not official and not connected to anywhere that knows anything about your VIN, AFAIK.

It will cost enough to make it worth looking for the lost one for a very long time.

Yeah hub end, so should be no bother for you.

Be aware that if the shaft has never been off before, you might need a puller/pusher to break the bonding that went on it at the factory.

Not sure I'd bother with the inner boot, they seem to last much better. Your description of driveshaft removal sounds good, just be careful that the XZN bit fully engages into the screw heads before trying to undo those 6.

If the tops of the axle stands look like this one, I like to put the stands on the longitudinal chassis member just aft of the engine bay, in the area just behind the curved section, around where the rectangle is on this image. They fit around it neatly if you're careful positioning it. (You can see one or two scuffs in the underseal where I've been less careful once or twice. If there's a plastic cover over (under!) that section of the underbody it's not quite so easy, though those covers do come off quite easily.

If you don't drive it, it takes a lot longer to fully warm up, in ambient temperatures like we have today, so either drive it, or hold the revs up at 2000+ for a few minutes until the temperature stops rising. Not sure about the lambda sensor, looks like it isn't dead then. Did you find anything leak-like?

If you intend to carry on maintaining your car(s) in the future @froggy8, a trolley jack is a very wise purchase.

"B1S1 Not OK" is a bit of a giveaway, I think. That's the pre-cat oxygen sensor not healthy (or just sooted up excessively?). Are there any fault codes other than the one in the title when you scan the engine module? Did you take it for decent drive (10-minute plus) before the 'operating temperature' screenshot?, seems like it hasn't got fully up to temperature, judging by the needle and the number? (Or the sensor is out of spec.) Italian tune-up may be advisable and then look again.

Check for vacuum leaks. Brake servo vac pipe and the pipe coming from PCV valve. If you're not sure where I mean, stick up a photo of your engine bay and I'll annotate it for you.

Is it an AWY code or BMD code engine? (Will be found on boot floor build sticker).

I guess the fault isn't happening often enough to put the fault light on then. CO is higher than it ought to be on the fast idle test, so something's not quite right. Does the car do mainly short trips? One of the fields in engine module measuring block 001 is coolant temp, I think?

The warning light may have been obscured within the instrument cluster, If the car was first used before 1st July 2003 it is not required to work for MOT. See end of spark ignition section: 8. Nuisance - MOT inspection manual: cars and passenger vehicles - Guidance - GOV.UK (www.gov.uk) See if it comes on briefly when ignition is turned on. Check that engine coolant temperature as reported through VCDS is consistent with ambient temperature when the engine is cold and gets to around 90C when fully warmed up. There's always the possibility that the emissions test machine was out of calibration during your test, What were the numbers on your print-out?

I'm not sure but I don't think that unit has much if anything to with with the working of the electric windows. Which bit(s) of the wiring info make you think it could be important?

I guess G83 may be within the HVAC module stuff, rather than engine.

When you looked at coolant temperaturewith VCDS was it the G83 sensor reading you were looking at, or G62? I think there are two sensors.