Breezy_Pete

If you operate the passenger side window from its local switch does that also go the opposite way to expected?

The fact that you get the same 'backwards' operation via key in lock and the switch panel suggests to my little brain that it can't be either of those external things at fault, but must be something within the window module, too much of a coincidence otherwise.

There are at least two connections from the driver's side door lock unit that go to the window module, the 'door open' signal and the key position sensing. The door open signal also goes to the onboard supply control unit, for its purposes to do with interior lighting control and probably other things. The key position info is also hardwired through to the Central Convenience control unit that deals with the locking stuff, for obvious reasons. The former is presumably related to the behaviour you noted above about the window operation ceasing when the door is opened after ignition off, the latter is what allows the 'key held round each way' window opening/shutting, I guess. The door open microswitch connects pin 8 of the lock module to earth (pin 7) when the door is open, and doesn't when the door is closed. The key position signal comes out on pin 4 of the lock module. It is shorted to earth when/while the key is held in the 'lock' position, and is connected to earth via a 180 Ohm resistor when held the other way. When the key isn't turned either way, it doesn't connect to anything, I think. I like your idea about the worm screws but I think it probably isn't that, as I've heard it described a few times and doubt that others have simultaneously had both motors in bits. Did you clean the commutators/gaps?

Rob, thanks for the update, interesting indeed. I've heard of this 'wrong way round' operation before but not experienced it. I received a small parcel in the post today which is a drivers side window switch and lock/unlock button set. First thing planned is to measure the resistances that get switched in between the various connector pins as the switches are operated in all their positions. Maybe we can compare those numbers to what yours does at the moment? I'm aiming to build a full bench-top system, I think. The motor module I have is from a member here, and believed to be faulty, so it'll be fun to see if I can work out exactly how/why.

It's the light brown connector in this shot of the onboard supply control unit, above the accelerator pedal, I think. Ignore the blue arrow/circle they were highlighting something else.

Does the ebay listing actually claim it's a genuine Ross-tech cable? Bet it's cleverly worded to sound like it's saying that without actually doing so.

That's perfectly normal behaviour when the engine is off; you need the engine running to maintain servo vacuum and hence pedal consistency. Did you read the whole sentence Ken? This bit? - "they'll still sink when holding pressure on the pedal"

Can cruise control be fitted to my Fabia? - Skoda Fabia Mk I - BRISKODA Later cars (post-facelift?) have a different arrangement that means you can't see just by dropping the cubby down, but yours should be OK.

1.0 chzc | eBay

That is a good find. Many Skoda models probably use this same size/type so it might be handy to start a thread somewhere more 'general' like 'Handy Topics and Guides' and stick that link in there. Maybe also point out that the lazy tong style riveters make easier work of them? I've used that ebay seller for a few things in the past; great range and great service.

Head skim planned?

Yeah, probably worth the gamble. What do you suspect is wrong with the current one? What misbehaviour is occurring?

Minimal help with the issue at hand but auto-lock and unlock is where the doors lock themselves once a threshold speed is exceeded, and then refuse to let your passengers out when you stop! Anti-hijack feature that I turned off in my Polo as soon as I learned how. It sounds a bit like a dodgy connection in one of the door locks, is it always locking, never unlocking that you see? Have you checked any wiring in the A-pillar-to-door bellows?

Try part number 5J2837015 instead. Apparently the number you have was superseded by that in 2010: Buy 3B2837015AP door lock Skoda, Volkswagen genuine OEM part (oemwolf.com) May increase the range of options. Or maybe not...According to ETKA that only suits cars built from 7th December 2009 onwards. lock cylinder sets - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2007 year] (7zap.com)

Have you still got the old lock? What part number was on it? What replacement did you buy, part number-wise? Link? It does sound like a wire or two is swapped over somewhere but best start with identifying what you had and what you now have in there.

Nice one Rob, that's something to have a damn good look at. I guess vibration of the loom connector and/or slamming of the door could stress those solder joints. Will have a look at mine under the microscope. Did they ever?

Haynes has this to say about the cylinder head bolts and nuts: Cylinder head bolts: Stage 1 .............................................................................................. 20Nm Stage 2 .............................................................................................. Angle-tighten a further 90° Stage 3 ............................................................................................... Angle-tighten a further 90° Cylinder head nuts................................................................................ 20Nm So the bolts get two sequential quarter-turns after the 20Nm stage. The nuts just get the single torque to 20Nm. I seem to remember there are different length bolts in some positions too, so be careful not to muddle them up.

Hi Rob. The electrolytic (tall can) capacitor is powered 24/7/365 so could be worth replacing. Relay will be trickier to replace but worth a try if you can source one and have the necessary tools/skills.

Make sure the locking wheel nut key is in the car before you set off.

If it's your car in the photo, take the wheel off and you'll find the part number stamped into the back of it near the bolt holes, I think.

If it's a factory fit option then it'll be in one of the diagrams on this page: wheels, brakes Fabia (FAB) [EUROPA 2014 year] (7zap.com) You don't say what size it is and I cant quite be bothered looking through all the different pages for you looking for a match. View the pages that are linked from that page on a computer rather than a phone or you might not see the part number column.

Only just seen your reply. Check fuse 11 as a first step, it is in series with the ignition switched supply, and goes to the window motor via a black/blue wire from pin 7 of the 28-way at the A-pillar to pin 2 of the 6-way at the motor module (drivers side). You may be able to back-probe that connection at the window motor module and hopefully see 12V there when the ignition is on. Or unplug it and measure at the mating face.

As far as I know this is the only official one: partslink24

I'm trying to gain an understanding of these problems and haven't made much progress yet, but I did find one interesting thing at the weekend. On the one I was playing with (PN 6Y2959802 from a late mk1 Fabia), if I powered just the main permanent 12V connection relative to its earth (the fattest two wires) it drew a current of around 27mA at 12.5V...for a while. After exactly ten minutes it 'went to sleep' and the current reading dropped below what the PSU could display (less that 1mA). If I also gave it a 12V supply on a pin which would normally get an ignition 12V feed (6-way connector pin 2) it draws a little more quiescent current (33mA approx.) and doesn't go to sleep after ten minutes. As these units aren't on the CAN bus, and only have data connections via LIN bus with each other, it may be that this is a feed that tells the unit "hey you need to be awake and ready for action". I imagine - but haven't yet demonstrated - that without this awake state the thing will do nothing and ignore any input from the switches. If you tell me what year your Roomster is I'll look up which pin and wire colour the equivalent feed is on your car, if there is one. Consider cleaning the pins of the module connector too, rather than anything more 'distant'.

There will be a VW group part number printed on the connector housing. It will be something like 1J0973704 (maybe even exactly that). Put that number into ebay search. You will see options with and without wires pre-fitted.