Breezy_Pete

Check cabin fuse 2, and fuses 4 and 25 under the bonnet, @trabolgan.

Those connections in circles tend to be splices within the loom, crimped-together wires taped up and a bit hard to spot when the loom is fully taped. Here's an example of a (unwrapped) two-into-one earth wire splice that @JoeF posted recently. The relevant wiring diagram would show that as a similar 'number in circle' thing to what you're seeing.

You won't be able to get the back half of the sleeve off until you get the clamp off it, see my edit in the previous post about hacksawing the bolt

Thing is mate, the clamps aren't the only parts that need removing, you need to get all of the old sleeve parts off, that may be why you're measuring diameters that don't make much sense to me. It should be straight, uniform-diameter tube that the new sleeve clamp slides onto, on both front and mid sections. Hacksaw through the middle of the bolt on the clamp you're struggling with, if you don't have dremel or angle grinder available. See this video, where life is easier for him because the old sleeve clamp hasn't disintegrated like yours.

Have you got all of the parts of the old sleeve clamp off both front and mid section? Photo of current situation?

That's not the problem then.

Don't forget to repair/replace the rubber bellows for the a-pillar wiring. Water will go in there and cause lots of problems without one.

Fuse 17 for numberplate lights (also left side light and left tail light).

Good news!

Have a look at the voltage at the black/blue wire in pin 2 of the 6-way connector on the drivers side, when ignition is on (or engine running). That's what comes from fuse 11, so should have 12V whenever ignition is on.

Check/change the battery in your meter first in case it's on the blink. The thick red/white wires to each motor are permanent 12V feeds direct from fuses 51 and 52 , both 25 Amp rated. Thick brown wire is earth. Have you at any point checked or replaced these two fuses, looking at their pins for signs of dirtiness or corrosion, or loose fit into the fusebox?

What were the numbers, and was cyl 4 any different to the other 3?

They are pretty similar, but now I can be looking at the right wiring diagrams and the right parts list. May help me to help you better. The suffix SK2 part now looks more plausible as the original, factory fitted module. Talk to you tomorrow.

So it is a Roomster, not a mk2 Fabia?!

Ignition switched 12V? The connection that's supposed to come from fuse 37 should actually be the output of the fuel pump relay rather than ignition switched 12V, not sure how much difference it would make in practice.

During or before your ownership? If it was during, did that module ^ come with the replacement door, or was it transferred across from the car's original door?

I think that should be sufficient.

So it looks like the one you've labelled M is pin 2, and the one labelled J is pin 3. Pin 2 needs a connection into the cabin to fuse 37, and pin 3 needs a feed from fuse 45. (Both 15 Amp fuses)

I think I may be able to help more a little later today once I've woken up a bit more and have a big screen in front of me.

Fuse 45 is fed directly from the ignition switch so does not need to go through any modules. You need to get that power wire to pin 4 of the engine ECU, I think. What year was each car built? How much of the wiring in the engine bay has been moved from the 9n3 to the 9n? I think it may be necessary to move the wiring loom that goes between engine ECU and bulkhead connectors, if you didn't already?

Not sure if there's any direct relevance, but if you haven't already, have a look at the breather module on the back of the engine block. It may be gunged up. The below thread contains some gruesome pictures of the one from an 85k mile somewhat neglected Polo with a BKY engine. Bored during lockdown and own a 1.4/16v? - Skoda Fabia Mk I - BRISKODA

I know what you mean, but I checked on the oemwolf page that I linked above, and it shows SK2 going direct to SK5. If it had intermediate steps, they'd be shown as a sequence of steps in my experience. SK3 has been superseded by SK6. SK1 supersedes to SK4, I don't know what it means nor if it is important but there must be some difference otherwise they wouldn't have the suffix. @Tech1e do you know what the SK.. suffix on the part numbers of the window motor modules tells you, please? Can you mix and match?

Glad you got it all done OK. Sitting at same height as before at the back?

It'll be interesting to see what's on the passenger side. The bottom line of that part number label has me a little confused. Looking here, for cars built up to 04/11/07, the full part number (for driver's side RHD) given in ETKA is 6Y1959801 SK3. The only bit on yours that looks anything like this SK3 suffix actually starts off SK2... on that bottom line.* This page suggests that the 6Y1959801 SK2 part was only fitted to Roomsters: Buy 6Y1959801SK2 window regulator motor Skoda genuine OEM part (oemwolf.com) Wait, did you already swap another module into driver's side? This SK2 one? Have you still got the old/previous one? Did that one ever work right? *Information that I came upon later suggest that this bottom line of info on the sticker probably doesn't have any direct correlation with the "SKn" suffix shown on ETKA pages anyway.

Pin 1 at MAP sensor connector - brown wire, earth for temp and pressure sensors, to/from engine ECU pin 83, shared with a few other sensors, Pin 2 Green wire, temperature sensor high side, to/from ECU pin 93, Pin 3 Red/green wire, 5V supply for pressure sensor, form ECU pin 96, shared with other sensors. Pin 4 brown/white wire, pressure sensor output to ECU pin 95.