Breezy_Pete

The old o-ring did come out with the old filter, right? There's a SNAFU on these where the old o-ring gets left behind, and soon afterwards there are low oil pressure warnings and general panic.

Radiator fans are the ones being discussed.

700mm long, according to the ebay listing. Tis a whopper.

No, that's what's specified for crankshaft, see Lee's link.

Polo info is at least consistent on the crank pulley bolt for BBY et al.; 150Nm plus 180° for the recessed head bolt like you had/have. Counterhold tool is VW 3415, which does look substantial: https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1845066239

It's bizarre, in my opinion. That seems to be such a huge difference. It's the same for the equivalent bolt on the 1.2 engines I think; really hoping I never need to try to do the job. Same bolt thread size and pitch as far as I recall. Possibly different material grade, I forget. Recently been taking driveshafts off and re-fitting on my Polo 9N3. Same driveshaft P/N, same P/N bolts as a Fabia with the smaller engines (M8 x 48 XZN bolts). Fabia workshop manual calls for 20Nm + 180° turn (no sequence suggested IIRC); Polo w/s manual says pre-tighten each to 10Nm in opposites pattern then 40Nm, same pattern. Having tried both a few times on the respective cars, there's a huge difference in applied effort/torque. The 180° takes a decent effort on an 18" breaker bar, Christ knows what 150Nm plus 180° takes! I remember @Tech1e talking about some seriously big counterhold tools for the crank bolt. This is all under the same company! I'll have a looksee what Polo 9N3 manual says about the crankshaft pulley bolt.

Fair enough, but I'd suggest you're better sticking with 505.01 rated 5w40 going forward, Once you have a good turbo in there.

The thicker oil is probably better; presuming it meets or exceeds the 505.01 VW spec. It does make sense as it will be less likely to find leakage paths at operating temperature than the thinner oil. It could also be that there's been a coincidence here. The oil causing the smoke may have been residual, left over from before the new turbo, and it happened to finish being 'ejected' at about the same time as the change of oil.

I'd say it'll come into the cabin underneath the rear seat bases, so have a look there, and see where the cable leads on its way forward. Looking at this image, the grommet under the rear seat will be the one just above the sensor itself in the picture, so there should be a two-way connection somewhere not all that far from there.

This is more like what you should be seeing, looking from the front, underneath, at the lower front of the gearbox (photo is of a petrol Polo, but should be similar). Lowest, black, connector pair is alternator signal connections (and what is in your pic, in a strange place). The reddish brown pair above it is for the A/C compressor N280 valve.

Yeah, probably. Bet your battery light doesn't come on with ignition either, cos both wires look to have broken and been abandoned. The angle of that photo is doing bad things to my neck!

I wouldn't rely on info from sites like that or ECP, they all seem to knob up quite regularly, but it's a starting point.

According to the three relevant diagrams on this page: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/superb/sup/2016-768/6/ the possibilities are 288mm, 312mm or 340mm. Cut a flat piece of carboard into a U-shape with 288mm between the insides of the U, and make the legs of the U about 50mm wide. See if it fits across the diameter of the disc. If it doesn't, open up the cutout to be 312mm, see if that fits. If it still doesn't you have the 340mm set-up. Or just put a piece of string round the circumference, measure that and divide it by pi.

If you Google the following phrase, in quotes just like here "check warning concerning bulb failure" the results will lead you to copyright-shredding copies of a wiring diagram pdf. Early in this document there are flow-chart fault-finding diagrams for a few systems including bulb failure warning.

I was thinking the same And about the A/C Where are you taking it for this service?

Here's the search result for "air quality" in here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/search/?q="air quality"&quick=1&type=forums_topic&nodes=299

It's not often I've been called unhelpful on here, but you're welcome to your opinion.

Honest question. As I mentioned before; these air quality sensors are a known problem area; so why not start there?

^ Do you work for a battery manufacturer or retailer?

I'm not recommending this specific one, 'cos there are surely going to be some low-quality items out there; but it might be perfectly fine, and is guaranteed for two years: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKODA-FABIA-Mk1-Mk2-ROOMSTER-PETROL-DIESEL-MANUAL-AUTOMATIC-RADIATOR/173205750441?fits=Model%3AFabia+I+Praktik|Plat_Gen%3AMK+I&hash=item2853de02a9:g:NecAAOSw5uFZdf5x @£24 delivered...

You can buy a new aftermarket rad for very few tenners.

That's what I was refering to, yeah. AKA brake booster.

How much use has the car had during lock down? If the answer is "not much" I would be more inclined to blame low state of charge of the battery.

I think it's going to be a touch too long. Octy ones appear to be 650x414mm, Fabia ones 632x414. Have you convinced yourself that your current one really needs replacement? My experience is that leaks are most often simply due to the thermoswitch (just above the bottom hose) needing tightening.

What's the part number of what you've bought?