Breezy_Pete

Hmm, sounds like a good call.

ESP or EPC warning light? Check your brake servo vacuum hose for splits where the hard plastic sections join the non-return valve. Also, which petrol engine? 1.2 40kW, 1.2 47kW, 1.4, 2.0?

Dunno if this helps at all? https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2014-753/1/115-115040/

https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/superb/sup/2013-632/

Looks like it's item 20 here: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2009-608/9/971-972035/ 1K0959843C (that's looking at a 2009 car, dunno if anything changed later). Probably genuine only, but RRP looks to be <£20

What year is the car?

You'll find a few folk with good knowledge of k-jet over on clubgti.com forums, as the early injected Golfs used it.

I doubt that anyone on here has done that conversion.

Be aware that if you leave such things plugged into a permanently powered accessory socket, they will speed up battery discharge slightly (but at least you'll see the problem if there is one). Another member recently measured his as adding 10mA (about 50%) to the car's 'sleeping' current, ^ that one will be more with the USB sockets included. Do you leave that in place 24/7 @MartiniB? 11.5V is rather worrying.

Not quite. It was to stop water vapour in the air from freezing and blocking up the carb. One purpose here is similar, to prevent blockage of the throttle body parts by ice. The risk of freezing is much less with injection engines, but still present in high-humidity, low-temperature conditions (e.g. fog). Fuel vapourising nearby made things much worse with carbs, the latent heat (cooling) of vapourisation adding to the expansion cooling of air passing the butterfly into intake manifold. Some engines use engine coolant pumped around the TB metalwork to do the same job, instead of pre-warming the air. Had an old MPI Vx Omega with such plumbing. Another part vulnerable to freezing is the PCV valve, as it passes (and depressurises) blow-by gases which contain lots of water vapour. It contains a small electrical heater on the 1.4/16v engines to prevent such freezing from blocking it. These recirculated vapours add to the moisture in the TB airflow in older designs where the PCV re-entry point was upstream of the TB (AUA, AUB?). It could be that the pre-warming system is designed to fail in the 'all hot' position, because the converse might cause more problems, in some climates/conditions. I think both our 1.2 Fabia and my 1.4 Polo have fully wedged shut warm air feeds now, with no noticed issues though. I was a little surprised to find the original airbox thermostat still working correctly on my 'rescue car' last year (another 1.4/16v Polo). Will leave that one alone for now but try to remember to check it periodically.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/ULTRICSÂ-Digital-Multimeter-Voltmeter-Ammeter/dp/B00TM0W8ZY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=multimeter&qid=1604611196&sr=8-3

Measure the voltage between the battery posts before putting the keys in the ignition. Then compare the numbers with those here to see roughly how much there is left in the battery https://www.google.co.uk/search?source=hp&ei=NFCkX4fyCIiSlwTVhaPwBg&q=lead+acid+battery+state+of+charge&oq=lead+acid+battery+state+of+charge&gs_lcp=CgZwc3ktYWIQAzIFCAAQyQMyAggAMgIIADICCAAyAggAMgYIABAWEB4yBggAEBYQHjIGCAAQFhAeMgYIABAWEB4yBggAEBYQHjoICAAQsQMQgwE6DgguELEDEIMBEMcBEKMCOgUILhCxAzoLCC4QsQMQxwEQowI6DgguELEDEIMBEMkDEJMCOgUIABCxAzoICC4QxwEQowI6CwguELEDEMkDEJMCOgIILjoRCC4QsQMQxwEQowIQyQMQkwI6CwguELEDEMcBEK8BOggIABCxAxDJAzoICC4QxwEQrwE6DggAEOoCELQCEJoBEOUCUMgYWIv4A2DAhQRoI3AAeACAAdUBiAHOEpIBBjMxLjEuMZgBAKABAaoBB2d3cy13aXqwAQY&sclient=psy-ab&ved=0ahUKEwiH3L7Gj-zsAhUIyYUKHdXCCG4Q4dUDCAk&uact=5

Couple of examples here from 15+ year old Skodas: Item 9 here: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2005-453/1/103-103004/ Item 19 here: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2003-225/1/103-103007/ Find it hard to imagine that more recent engines don't have equivalent separators.

Yes.

For what purpose? EGR valve pin 1, black/red wire is probably the easiest one to access.

Nice write-up. All I can remember is considerable force being required to do whatever it was that I did. It's possible that our airboxes were slightly different.

This photo shows the solder joints of the green connector, as you can see, accessible enough (with care) without removing the dial needles or bezel. Various pins are marked on that one, I seem to remember the fuel gauge pin is down at the left hand end as we're viewing it. May as well just reflow them all though.

^ That sounds completely wrong to me.

Hi Lloyd; I'd be surprised if the fuel gauge issue isn't due to a cracked solder joint on the green connector of the instrument cluster. Relatively easy to reflow (all) of the joints with a soldering iron and some fresh solder. The other issue I'm not sure about, but could possibly be related to the same thing, if the immobiliser pins of the same connector are behaving intermittently. Reflow them all, and the ones of the other (black) connector and see how you go.

Actually scrolling down further in that thread suggests my info might be out of date/duff, see post that says this: "As far as I can tell, Fuse box D (the additional fuse box inside the dash for Start-Stop cars) was also deleted in November 2015. The documentation for fuse box D is labelled "only valid until November 2015" and the wiring diagrams specific to my VIN do not show any fuses labeled "SD". I believe when Skoda changed the fusebox layout they also simplified some of the wiring meaning they could get away without this additional fuse box in Start-Stop vehicles."

This post shows you the picture I'm looking at: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/439363-up-to-date-citigo-fuse-box-diagram/?do=findComment&comment=4940837 Scroll to post by Sidi4

Just have a look at the other end too, for some reason the wiring diagrams only show the LHD version, maybe they're all on the left hand end?

Probably that, dunno. Be brave.

Bypass the EGR cooler and see if coolant loss stops? Item 87 in this diagram, so either disconnect both hoses from the cooler and connect them together with a coupler, or connect e.g. hose number 24 direct to pipe 15; if it'll reach. https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2013-697/1/121-121035/

If there's a 12-position fuseholder under a trim panel on the end of the dashboard, driver's door end, almost all of the fuses in there are permanent lives. Fuse 4 being the only exception in the info I have.