Breezy_Pete

Not (for me anyway) without an arrow or verbal description of where in those photos this missing seal should be.

Photo showing where this seal goes? And get onto checking that fuse No.13 in the e-box while you wait for anyone else to step in.

@PipH you're right, there are three ECU pins that get a permanent 12V feed from one of the e-box fuses, a 30 amp one, fuse 13. It's straining my vision a bit to see, but it looks like it might be the lower of two just to the right of centre in the OP's photo on the previous page? Looks like it's already been changed at least once due to being a visually different style to the others. @J.R. I agree that I'd be hoping @langers2k might be able to use his knowledge and experience to help here. The engine ECU appears to have both K-line and CAN comms, so I would have thought one or the other could be talking to the VCDS diagnostics unless there was something 'global' like a power feed fail? The fan behaviour may be the key to all of this, but I'm struggling to get my brain going today.

Check cabin fuse No.1; 10 amp. It's an ignition 12V feed to the engine ECU. I can imagine that if that has blown it won't talk to anything.

I've never owned full VCDS, but I guess registering is done at Ross-tech.com? Looks like communication between engine ECU and the rest of the car is the main problem at the moment then.

Try to get a photo of the point on the rad fan where the wiring goes in too, next time you're out with it. Suspension won't be anything to do with this, unless some wiring was somehow damaged during fitting.

Is the engine ECU fully plugged back in?

Just not possible. Not one of your most intelligent sentences.

OK, whatever you reckon. 😁

Ah, to hell with the law of conservation of energy! Do you realise how impossible that is? Or have you invented perpetual motion machines? 😁

Fault code read next. Approx location?

Yeah, possibly built before end of Dec 2005 and not registered for a couple of months.

A 2006 is a Mk1, so this is in the wrong place, I'll ask a moderator to move it. Can you post a photo of the front of your engine, with any engine top cover removed? I'm slightly surprised that a 2006 1.2 even has an EGR valve, as the BME engine code dropped that item in December 2005 to the best of my knowledge.

Gotta love a vigilant swear filter! 🤣 Nigh****chman?

Travelling at constant speed on a level road takes much less energy (see Newton's 1st law) than varying speed up and down even if some energy can be recouped during deceleration. Only as that constant speed gets higher do aero drag forces cause you to need significant power. 50 is probably a great compromise between drag losses and 'god this journey is taking so long' forces.

It's under warranty isn't it? Take it back and keep doing so until the door drainage is fit for purpose.

Post some photos of the new one when it arrives, particularly of the surfaces that the hoses will try to seal against. Worst case, you won't have paid all that much for the o-ring even if the rest of it looks dodgy. By the time you'd ordered an o-ring and either paid for delivery or collected, you'd've probably spent a tenner.

The Firstline part will very probably be rather cheap and nasty compared with your 10 year old original. It'll probably have rough, ridged seams that the hoses will struggle to seal on, and may well be less rigid, made from cheaper material etc. Really wouldn't recommend going cheap on this mate. Part number (and size) of the o-ring is given as item 21 in that same link. There's very little chance of there being anything wrong with the housing itself. What you may find though is that the surface of the head that the o-ring seals against may need a bit of TLC to get rid of any corrosion and pitting if it's been leaking at that point for a while. Oh, and don't bother with K-seal.

Pretty sure the water pump will be at the other end, someone else must know. Cheaper still just to buy the o-ring, probably.

Close to the bottom of page 1 in this thread there's a link to a workshop manual for the Karoq (and other models) A/C system https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/459017-karoq-workshop-manuals/ From the briefest of looks at that download, you're right about your first three sentences in that quote. The compressor is a variable displacement type, regulated by the solenoid valve N280, see within that manual for further details. Short answer, it won't/can't be doing any cooling while the compressor isn't rotating.

Might it be item 20 here that you're describing Gary? https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2009-608/1/121-121055/

Is the car jacked up in one corner only? If so, levelling it may help?

I'm seeing the choice as being between 228mm and 240mm, the latter being for 4wd cars (PR code 1X1). Right near the bottom of the page here: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2007-419/1/

I don't know what transport mode is; but on the balance of probabilities it seems much more likely to me that the car was delivered to you in this mode, than some hypothetical glitch being responsible.

Anytime; by the way, what did I do?