Breezy_Pete

Also a 7 at the end instead of a 1 though. Will look at circuits in a bit regarding relay.

It's beyond quite a lot of people's minds, but that doesn't mean it's wrong.

Check/replace the fuse if you haven't already, relay coil fuse is number 10 in the e-box, should be 5-amp rated. Look for corrosion or looseness of contacts, as well as fuse itself. If that is OK, check continuity between ECU pin 49, and pin 6 of the 40-way connector to the e-box, that's the wire which the ECU grounds to energise the coil.

You can probably start them moving with a hammer and punch applied in the appropriate angle/rotation to the outer area of the wide flange part. Access to do this may be difficult for some of them though. I tend to buy them from this fella: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-VW-25x-Wheel-Arch-Undertray-Interior-Exterior-M5x16-Screws-N90974701/174236468474?hash=item28914d84fa:g:4BgAAOSwYY1egziQ

Pull metal clip out to release, then pull, possibly very hard. Twisting prior to pulling may help. Did new rad come with replacement o-rings?

Everyone loves a free fix (except garage professionals) Looking up that part number on oemwolf.com tells me that it was superseded to 6R0953507C 9B9 (with an associated part) on VWs and Audis (no mention of Skoda or Seat, unless it's obscured by the advert): https://oemwolf.com/oem-parts/6r0953501c.html Doesn't give a date for when that occurred, which is usually shown. This post gives a couple of part number researching tips:

UV light exposure and heat from weather and usage will account for most of the age-related degradation when fitted to a vehicle. All of these should be absent until the tyre is fitted. So not a biggie.

No need to apologise, made me double-check my thinking. Never a bad thing.

Not sure about that. The problem right now is that at maximum pedal travel downwards (= maximum slave cylinder piston extension) the clutch only just disengages. So lengthening the actuator attached to the piston should make the clutch disengage with less pedal movement, no?

Good idea; well worth a try.

Looks like I did, Sachs part from GSF via ebay; and judging from some photos I was looking at earlier of the 'new' gearbox minus a fork, I swapped the recent one over onto it. Can't see any harm in an experiment to extend the slave actuator so I'll have a look at adding a few mm to that somehow. Think I've still got the slave that came with the JJL box too somewhere, maybe.

Struggling to remember. Certainly considered it, and have a vague memory of finding that local GSF had one on the shelf. Email/purchase records should be able to remind me.

Thanks, that sounds reasonable. Starting to think I must've knobbed up something when I swapped gearboxes 16 months back. I bought a JJL code gearbox on instead of the original GSB code, without much research or thought, beyond knowing that they were fitted to the 1.2/12v engines a little later. Tempted to try cobbling together a short extension piece to go on the end of the slave cylinder actuator to see if that moves the biting point away from the floor.

I would definitely advise looking at the part number on ones existing part before ordering anything, if it's visible just by popping off that top cowling. There are still other part numbers for the part in the ETKA pages for earlier years, 2009/10/11, so a tricky one to get right 'in theory' without looking at the specific car. Mentioning that for the OP @Fawnrush's benefit. Some will probable be interchangeable, but I wouldn't gamble on it.

Had a go a few minutes back. Nothing bulgy but interestingly, the whole flexi section can be felt to move slightly (in the direction of the arrow) as the clutch pedal is pushed fully to the floor. Not sure if this is to be expected, or how to imagine exactly what's going on structurally there; but doing the same check on my Polo results in much less noticeable (but still detectable) motion in the same direction.

Would that late-May date be the MY changeover? If so, the 10th digit of VIN could be pertinent.

Well it wasn't the master cylinder. 🙄 Have literally just had another idea that might be easyish to check once the rain stops - could it be that the flexi section of the hydraulic hose between master and slave is swelling/ballooning somewhere, taking some of the fluid that ought to be pushing the slave cylinder's actuator? Far-fetched and probably just me being in denial about there being something wrong inside the bell housing. Fingers crossed though...

The parts catalogue is doing my head in somewhat, but I think if Fred66's car was built on or before 27/05/12 he'd need the suffix-AN item 1 here: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2012-697/9/953-953050/ and if built on or after 28/05/12 it'd be 6R0 953 507C from this page: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2012-697/9/953-953051/#1 I'm not sure I'd order a spare without having seen the part number sticker on the original, given the sheer number of options. Does the top cowling, item 5 on those pages, just pull off upwards, that would be too easy, right... And none of them seem to fit part number-wise with what Fawnrush posted up-page, which confuses me further.

Posting some pics on Fred66's behalf:

Perhaps you should put him on your ignore list, then he would pretty much disappear from your view?

Oil temperature sensor fault, judging by a quick bit of googlage. Check wiring adjacent to the connector on the sump.

Part number will be printed on it somewhere.

Pleasure mate, did you take any photos? So there wasn't any thread-tapping operation, just drilling and press-fitting?

Probably just the battery light, but depending on usage, that wire being broken might mean that the alternator isn't working for at least some of the time when it should be, leading to low battery charge problems and all sorts of faults. Fix the known fault, then see if there are any left.

The blue wire that provides initial field coil energy to the alternator is broken. The place where at least 99 out of 100 of these breaks is at a bracket on the front of the gearbox where it, and another wire that may also be broken, go through a 2-pin plug/socket connection.