Monkhai

Sell the rim/tyre combo and buy a new set of the correct size pre fitted from my tyres or similar? Now is a good time to sell a set of winters on rims 👍

Approximate translation is that the poster has a 2007 Fabia vRS 130. They need help as their climate no longer works. Motor does not work to ventilate the car. The fuse is not blown, the compressor does not function. Could you offer assistance please and thanks in advance. @fvincent974 Forum rules do ask that all posts are in English, so if you would be so kind to edit your post to English or post what exactly you’d like said and a moderator can update the first post. In terms of the issue, does you fabia have selectable AC with manual switches or full automatic climatronic where you just set the temperature and it does the rest?

Could I ask what tyres they are? Brand/model primarily as I don’t see this information. Obviously tread depth is important but a 7mm ditch finder special isn’t worth keeping.

At a very simplified level Summer - Tyres that have big bands of rubber and few blocks. Harder rubber but sticky and still with good wear rate at higher temperatures Winter - Softer rubber, blocks, sipes All season - blocks , slightly softer rubber sometimes Nordic winters - Very much optimised winters, often studable or studded. Edit: Worth adding 20-30 years ago standard tyres were blocky and would get you home in a light dusting of snow. Modern “summer” tyres have been optimised for warm grub, shedding water, economy/rolling resistance and noise . Hence they are no longer made of many individual blocks of rubber but the bands we see. These bands have no grip on slush etc.

I’d have a look at getting some upper mid range all season tyres on all 4 wheels or if you can stretch to the Goodyear/continental/Michelin all seasons. I suggest this as it sounds like they’re all a bit EOL. Unless you’re racing around in the sunny days then you won’t notice any difference in summer but will benefit in cold/snow.

Sounds like they can be tail happy, particularly if regen is too aggressive.

I’m really interested to understand how an RWD EVbehaves in snow/ice and rain/mud conditions. Looking at them again and AWD options are all on long lead times bar a stock model Y or model 3 AWD. Otherwise it’s all RWD. I’d either run All weather or winter, but I do drive all over so avoided RWD ice and stuck with FWD/AWD. Tyres more important than drive but a RWD on winters was still a bit of a handful in compacted snow. Thoughts appreciated.

There are metal splines and they are either hidden in the rubber at the top edge or internal to the blade below the spoiler profiled section. With the first slight reshaping is easy. With the second I have seen it done a small amount with careful and gentle bending of the whole blade. With the latter type, the usually do two blade profiles, one flatter and one which is noticeably curved when you take it out the box. The latter is flexible and aimed at non flat screens.

Killing the modification industry in one fell swoop…. The car manufacturers absolutely wouldn’t love that to happen so that they can charge £10k for a new plastic badge and a mild remap.🙄

Sounds truly soul destroying. Not allowed to tamper with the white good car and being tracked everywhere. No thanks. just increase VED, leave VAT on fast charging at 20% and add a weight/efficiency element for EV..

Ouch! So £10 year 1 then £165 or £520 for any EV over £40k, which is most of them. That makes an EV expensive to own from 2025 unless electric prices drop. I wonder what they’d do with hydrogen cars. Tax the car, tax the fuel or both?

Not clear yet imho

So car tax is to come in for EV: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-63660321

There is the mk3 octavia with a CR190 and there was a 4x4. Shame the superb is too big (it’s not that big) as there was a petrol 4x4 with 290bhp. Going from petrol to diesel the power matters less and the torque more imho. Question on fuel would be at the front of my mind though. Diesel is nearly 30p more than petrol here. I wouldn’t think you’d actually make any big savings on the fuel side. What about switchable map with an economy map and the standard map for the legacy? I also assume the air and fuel filter are regularly changed and the sparks etc in good condition?

As if by magic…

It could be implausible, but usually these come up because: - Fluctuating battery voltages (old/flat battery) - Battery disconnected - wiring fault - Sensor fault If you’ve checked the battery is ok, then I’d suggest you visually check the abs sensors and also get a fault code scanner. This will tell you which particular sensor or wiring might be at fault. The other option might be a specialist independent or dealer if you can’t track it down. Do you have the actual fault code message?

Have you tried driving it a hundred meters? Those faults usually come up after a battery change etc and clear after a short drive. Also I’m going to merge threads as you can’t keep posting the same thing in multiple threads. Please keep it to one.

Hungary are EU… should be similar albeit not the same.

I’ve moved this to the fabia section as it will probably get more attention. My first port of call would be checking all the connectors and wiring behind the lights as it sounds like a short and water can certainly cause that. When you say aftermarket I’m assuming you mean OEM rather that completely non standard. If it was an insurance claim is go back and get them to fix it. If you paid a body shop yourself then I’d go back there and get them to find and fix it.

It sounds like you’re after help finding the right cluster rather than looking to locate a cluster on the site. I’ve moved this to the fabia section as you’ll likely get more help here.

The manual should say but over the years I’ve typically seen the flowing. Do check though as I wouldn’t want you to shrink/damage anything: Level 1 is probably what other machines call iron dry. This is dry ish but slightly damp. Level 2 is probably Dry, which is mostly or close to totally dry, different garments will differ in how dry. Level 3 is probably cupboard dry/extra dry. This is that very dry, usually IME is creased and you can easily shrink clothes here. You should have two temperature options too a standard or intense dry and a cool or gentle dry. Thick towels bedding etc can take the first, but non cotton can’t. Gentle is safer for most but read the garment labels. Wash then dry if it is a washer dryer is useless as you can’t dry as much as you can wash so one part will be under/overloaded I usually use Iron dry if I have to dry and only use intense for cotton towels and bedding.

Moved to Superb. Is this a main dealer mechanic?

Yeti discussion moved to its own thread: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/508236-yeti-4x4-egr-valve-needs-replacing/?tab=comments#comment-5706052

I’ve moved this to the kodiaq area so you get a wider audience 👍

I suppose… I mean it is a fabia and not an Octavia VRS* *(Very old in joke from the early days of the forum about the mk1 fabia vrs)