Monkhai

If they use screw turbines or something else suitable to not harm wildlife and are careful about blocking flow I don’t see how it’s any worse than Hinckley. Besides they’re building anti flood barrages everywhere currently, so some control to deal with surges could be quite useful.

If you give us an idea of your problems, there’s probably someone who can give you some insight 👍

Most battery packs come from there. Huge number of car parts for ICE come from there. I think UK Tesla come from China, plenty of VW group cars have parts I’ve seen withmade in China on them.

Are you saying it’s odd to compare mg4 vs Nero or ev6?

Depends how they implement the cap. If it’s by removing the linking to gas of electric prices that’s good. If it not that but it’s a lever to get legacy renewables onto modern contracts that’s ok too. Don’t forget suppliers on long term supply contracts won’t be affected. If it’s just we won’t pay as much for renewables as gas… they’re mad.

I guess you’ll end up with BEV to replace petrol and FCEV or similar to replace diesel (back when the der pump was smelly and only used by those who really needed a diesel car).

But the vehicle using the energy to turn the wheels might well weigh a lot less than a BEV with an equivalent range. It's swings and roundabouts. More important is that the 0.4 is more than the equivalent 0.2 or less for petrol/diesel. You seem to miss that there are many people I know who travel for business who point blank refuse to buy a car they have to plug in as they can't be doing sitting at a charger for 2 hours + a day. These people are real and most of them would happily buy a hydrogen car as "you can fill up in 5 minutes and be gone". So again, whilst a BEV might be the best option (Subjective) the hydrogen EV would bring many people along, drop the localised air polution and at the very least be a great stepping stone for the stubborn.

Pumped hydro, hydro and tidal barages Tidal gives 4 generation periods a day (in and out twice) at very predictable times that are mapped out years ahead. Plus if you generate in, you can always block the outflow until it's needed and use any excess generation from the inflow to power pumps for the pumped hydro. If you look at cardiff bay, the barage there is a great example of somewhere that could (at least to the lay man) be easily upgraded to a tidal generation barage.

The kia forums are full of how it's nasty inside, like an aeroplane seat etc. Many seem unable to get over the fact that it's about half the price of an EV6, so if you can buy two cars for the price of one it's a hard sell for the 50k one. Established premium brands are doing well, cheap EV will do well with the mass market buyers. I think the likes of VW, ford etc are going to have to up their game and drop their prices. Kia could be in a spot of bother, as the software is "interesting" imho, the car is premium priced and it doesn't have the bandge prestige over other cars that Merc, BMW, Audi or Porsche could count on.

Whilst I agree with your point about a technical spec being met or not, I don’t think you need to be quite so blunt. That first line of your reply just isn’t needed. @chimaera There might be some specs where it can be somewhat beaten, but dot4 is well understood. Plus it’s Brembo, so I’d say it’s much of a muchness. For example I used to run DOT 5.1 when I was doing a lot of autobahn driving as having to hit the brakes hard at 140mph when a caravan pulled out in front of you left the brakes spongy. It’s better at high brake temperatures, but I seem to remember less good at other aspects such as water absorption requiring more frequent changes. If it was me I’d just use fresh unopened tubs of a decent brand of dot 4.

I think they’ll cop out and extend hybrids, probably only range extender types.

Yes, but you don’t need to spend 50k so it cancels the savings out and then some. Not trying to be difficult but the big sell was they’re expensive but so cheap to run. Now that’s not true all the time you will have a much harder dell convincing your average punter to part with a big lump up front. Again you’re forgetting the up front extra cost of the EV.

It's not unreasonable, but if your derv does 12.5MPL (Approx 56PG) it's costing say £1.80 per 13.5miles currently. At the 67p/kWh rate, lets say you're getting a somewhat generous 4.5 miles per kWh (It is a tesla and they're efficient), then it's £1.86 for the same 12.5 miles. Now there are a lot of factors, but that's not a compelling case to spend 40/50/80k going electric. It's really sad, but until either the price of an EV drops to that or an ICE car or on the road charging becomes substantially cheaper than ICE it's going to be a very hard sell to your average motorist who does long trips. As a second car, which can do a real 100-200 miles for going around town and the local area then it would make sense as you go out full, you come home and charge. That however assumes you have access to cheap charging or solar when you need it.

You can put rings on the battery (or appropriate) terminals and then you have an accessible connector. The CTEK claim they are suitable for maintainance charging and I believe are what is supplied by a number of vehicle OEM. I actually use the cigarette lighter (12v power) adapter and charge through there most of the time.

Don’t take my word as gospel I don’t drive petrols but do drive manual diesels. If it’s not notchy in the diesel I’d be amazed if it was in the petrol and I think it’s the same gearbox.

As for the steering, it’s electronic so change the drive mode to eco and compare. That should feel much more assisted.

Will move it, but the box shouldn’t be notchy so if it is on just one change that’s not ideal. 3rd to 4th is the gear that will take the biggest hit when being pushed hard too imho.

I assume you mean DSG, but since you have another thread on automatic reliability I think it’s covered and this thread is unnecessary.

In the UK, a good compromise (unless you get lots of snow) could be 4 good all-season tyres. By this I mean the ones with snowflake/mountain marking not the cheapy "all season" sometimes seen. If you're very cold or get regular snow, then definately not, but if it's just to get you home safely in a flurry of snow, then AS might be a good compromise. Cost wide you will save little, as the summer/winter are only on half the year each, so you'll use one set of each vs two of the others. The savings come from storage, changing and wheels etc more than the cost of the tyres themselves IMHO.

I don’t know the codes, but has that relay been checked?

I wouldn’t put winters on only one axle unless you want to go off the road in a big way. Slowing down and cornering/changing direction are where you would come very unstuck

As ken alluded to, just sitting with it on and moving the flap position "manually" a large number of times by pressing the button for feet, windscreen, face over and over whilst also setting lo and hi over and over might be enough to free something. It's worth a try for nothing. I think the diagnostic tools might be able to do some playing around with this too.

It's a friction brake. The friction lining (Brake Pad) rubs against the brake disc to create friction to slow the car down. They wear, that's the point of the disc, albeit slowly. You can't put too big or deep a groove in it or you harm the performance of the disc and if you drill the disc it can crack around these. Most people I knew who had proper fast track cars (not off road going through dirty standing water) used solid discs as the extra mass gave better cooling. There's a whole series of possible factors from: Discs are worn out Pads are not applying pressure evenly (that would really only go for the wear ring you see about 1" out from the centre) Discs are not on the hub quite straight (fraction of a mm, meaning a tiny tiny bit more wear on one side of the disk than the other They were not milled consistently (I'd assume a machine did them, so it would be unlikely but you know what they say about assumptions) The material the original disc is made from. Many more Where did you buy them from? Not an e-bay special I hope? What is the wear pattern like on the inside of the disc (Is that face slotted too - it should be and if so is it worn in the same or mirror image) How many miles have you done on them and of what sort of driving. It's normal for slots/groves to wear as the disc wears, but how much depends on the brand. I know some makes had a certain bit wear flat at minimum thickness, so you could easily tell when it was new disc time. Perhaps it's that? I personally wouldn't bother and would put bog standard discs of a decent brand/quality on them (OEM Equivalent brembo for example) Regardless of what we all say, I would be getting the brakes checked by a qualified person if you are not 100% certain what you're doing as they are the one thing not to take any chances on.

A pandemic A war A loss of manufacturing Critical changes in oil/energy prices Lack of shipping resources .... JIT is great when everything is perfect and predictable. The sticking loads in a warehouse costs too much. Sadly what is needed is ARTBIRN (Just made up) - A reasonable time before it's really needed, where goods are shipped in half warehouse quantities, such that the warehouse holds enough to deal with a reasonable period of time of work continuation should an oops happen. Essentially when you've used half your stock, fill up again rather than waiting until it's nearly empty. As for the side window... I doubt it's a common parts, so they might have one of each type in a central warehouse if you're lucky, but probably not as it would cost much £££ to do so for all the popular cars. Front screens yes, possibly some others for very common cars, but not all of them.

Already got 3 star locks and 2 star handles (not needed I know, but I was replacing some old broken ones and the cost difference wasn't huge). I've been fitting decent locks for over a decade as I used to work in DG and so knew how vulnerable EC locks are. Hingebolts are something so many people overlook too. It's just a shame that stalking out cars/houses isn't something the police can pick you up for. It's pretty indefensible when you do it in the middle of the night, wrapped up hiding yourself and clearly checking out property 😕