Monkhai

I would image you’ll have to ask the manufacturer, but that they’ll be pretty unwilling to share in any detail. Probably because the compound make up is the difference between two identical looking tyres being a top performer and a ditch-finder.

I was thinking stealth marking, using some of the uniquely identifiable not visible in under normal light solutions. Probably in not typically visible places of the easy to flog bits, such as the radio parts, engine and exhaust parts, suitable parts of the alloys, seats etc. Basically enough removable parts to make a reasonable chance of a conviction if people were caught transiting/selling a car as parts. A bit like the visual "find an easier one" deterrent of the disclock, I imagine advertising the marking with the supplied window stickers (like the old car alarm stickers) would make the car less attractive than one that is unmarked. The old lock bumping and snapping thing bothers me, because it's been known about for years and yet doors/windows are still sold the vulnerable locks. It's time for a Eurocylinder v2, with two not one screw points and anti-snap/pick/bump features a requirement of the basic spec. Obviously it only applies to new doors. I do hear what you're saying about they'll do what they want though, as they are basically out there and don't care one bit if they're seen. I didn't like the 80s/90s and yes, it's that same you can't have anything nice or it'll get nicked or at the least damaged feeling. Having looked at the pandora system, it reminds me of an alarm from the 90s, where you could hand over the keys, they could drive away and after a certain time the car would just cut out if they hadn't put in the right number of taps. Essentially they get away, you have time to call the police and then hopefully the car can be recovered.

I would suggest that many of the members mentioned on the list may not be around any more and that if they are many of those cars will have been reverted to standard or scrapped by now. I'd suggest this thread, which was last updated 14 years ago (2008) has run it's course, although you are welcome to start a new one.

Glad I'm not the only one who thought this, although my contemplation came from the idea that it's impossible to get a new car right now, so if it got stolen you could be without one for a long time. We have noticed a lot of last generation cars are being broken into and stolen, with the suggestion they're desirable for spare parts due to a shortage of new spare parts. The older cars are easier to nick (if you discount keyless entry), which makes them a target. The disclock type steering locks at least means they need to make more noise to steal it, although how much people would notice at night is another question. I am assuming (although could be incorrect) that marking car parts with something police approved that can be used as evidence and advertising that fact would make it a less desirable target, but you never know if it just makes it more of a target just because they can.

There appear to be people scouting out cars, particularly anything that isn't current generation, of late. Are there any known vulnerabilities on the Octavia 3 which make entry/theft easy. I specifically DO NOT want details as that will only help those who are looking to take or break into the cars. For example, do I need to be mindful that entry is now easy and should look to use something like a disclock? Also what makes a good deterrant these days? Trackers, Smart water, ruddy great steering locks etc? Is it worth leaving the boot uncovered, so it's obvious there is nothing in there or is that just asking for problems with the storage pockets that come with the car to hold deicer and the first aid kit etc? I have this nasty 1980s/90s feeling about thing at the moment 😕

You have already posted a nearly identical thread Please don’t create multiple similar threads, as it’s against the forum rules.

Ahh yes, it's the mother and baby/disabled bay types again

I've noticed a very entitled attitude of certain types of EV driver. Not the majority of them, but the £100k is no object types, who would previously have driven their Giant SUV, with the biggest engine and parked it in a disabled or mother and baby bay.

Oh right, well I got completely the wrong one. The only thing I can think of is that they're using genuine parts, or they are doing the control arms, the ball joints/track rod ends and all new bolts at the same time. The latter isn't that unreasonable as I've seen a fair few rusted bolts shear when undoing them and the ball joints at the ends of the control arms are pretty exposed. Certainly last time i had bushes done I was presented with one that had gone, so just did both to save future costs. You really do need a parts break down or a second price.

You'd need to do that and then once that has done, fill it with the appropriate plastic using something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plastic-Soldering-Adjustment-Temperature-Professional/dp/B09VL6P2RG/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=plastic+welding+kit&qid=1662979490&sr=8-6 It might just be chaeper to find a plastic repair company and get them to do it unless you think you'll do it again.

Surprisingly with the 100kW+ prices being so high and the fact that most of my journeys are 100+ each way, it very quickly gets border line. It's far less than a third for me. If you were mostly in traffic driving and some other drives on say country roads, where ICE isn't that efficient, then I would say EV would still probably be a good swap, unless you own the ICE outright. Essentially if you're doing a drive where ICE is efficient right now, own your car outright and don't have solar, then I don't think an EV makes sense If you're paying high prices on an ICE lease already, then the sums are very different and actually the EV call is much closer. For me it doesn't make sense, but it might in the future.

I just had a look at ECP: https://www.eurocarparts.com/suspension-arm-and-suspension-joints I've guessed at a fabia 2012 1.4, but if you put in your reg plate it will give you the right part under suspension arm and suspension joints. I selected lemforder, who are a high quality part and they're showing at a fictional £109 each, with a discount down to £75, which is a more normal price. I'd suggest looking it up in detail, that they are taking the proverbial on parts prices and therfore I would check they are not using genuine skoda parts. (I'm assuming you're not going to a main dealer - if you are find a good indy). TBH, at this point, I'll get off the fence and say try another MOT centre, who are not trying to shaft you and just pay for a second MOT if needed.

£140 + 140 = 280 and if you mean the control arms they can be a bit of a bugger to do, but even if they're not it's got to be aligned afterwards. You could buy the fully bushed control arms, and access to EKTA and DIY, but you have to make sure you're using new bolts and doing everything up to the correct torque. FWIW, where is the wear, as they usually wear out bushes not the arms. I'd almost be tempted to go to another MOT centre and get them to check what exactly is worn. If it's all 4 bushes, then it is likely cheaper to buy the arms and swap them, than take the control arms out, do all the bushes and put it all back.

You are quite correct, I was multi-tasking and not reading what I wrote. What I meant to say (and didn't) was that they'd been out pretty much from the day it was announced. Which and moneysaving export had it uot and about pretty quickly. I do agree the Ofgem site isn't the clearest, but then they are just stating a cap, so it's up to suppliers to advise the price (which can be lower) not ofgem. It's a hard one for ofgem, but then much of the media don't help by only every quoting an average cap.

It already states the average cost per kWh unless I am missing something it was approx 34p for leccy and 10.5p for gas. If I get time I'd put the new data in a spreadsheet, but the above figures have been out for weeks. I've just done the sums and it's not cheaper in the EV6 vs 2.0TDI at £2/litre for my type of journeys. If you're doing mostly town driving then yes, but as soon as you include lots of m/way and a few DC charges a week, the diesel is cheaper. We've cancelled the EV, but what this does give us is time to try and get a solar set up installed after we were shafted by our installer. Once we have that in place, I hope to have gained the use of an SS scheme, so at that point new EVs down the line will be a hopefully cheaper/better option.

I’d suggest it’s worth paying a Garage to get them to diagnose. Otherwise you’ll just end up swapping a huge number of parts which will cost far more than a £60 diagnostic fee.

I know the mk2 was on top and easy, but I thought the mk3 was underneath hidden by the plastic under tray.

Normally I just suck the oil out with the pella pump every 9.5k miles and have a full service done at 18.5k miles (Or whenever the computer asks), but with the car getting a bit older, I'm thinking I might just get off my arris and undo the big piece of plastic to allow myself to do the oil and filter now. Does anyone have any details of the tools needed for the filter housing etc and also any instructions? I'll likely still pump the oil out before removing the oil filter to save the possibility of a mess, but it would be great to know what's what before I venture under the car. it's a 2.0 TDI

We can't get them, so there's no point and a 15k system would cost almost 30, with a low end system costing more than 15. Installation dates are a never never and most vendors are putting the price up more than the cost of this years energy bill predictions. I'm waiting on two companies who have both been honest to the core with me on availability and dates, with one looking promising as long as I go with the panels and everything they use on their small commercial installs. The other have said there is no way I will see a tesla battery this side of mid 2023. I'm so angry, because the reason we went with the installer was the commitment it and the other parts were in stock, but of course they withdrew saying they don't have stock. It's beyond disgusting and I notice we've hopefully had a lucky escape as they are now littered with similar bad reviews online. They don't just have no information they give official answers that directly contradict themselves (each from official sources) about key features. I'm looking at the ability to do an SS with some changes that might come in the near future and at that point a whole extra pile of cars come into the game. Got the MOT this week, so assuming that passes or the car can be made to pass, there is zero logic of paying lots of money for something that isn't what they said it would be and then paying high prices for fuel too.

Combined with the solar repeatedly telling porkies about all the in stock parts along with months of other excuses there is no point in an EV at £0.52/kWh. So in trying to do the right thing for the environment, a single selfish business has killed it and I don’t imagine we will go back as solar prices are now beyond us (Almost double).

Walking away… Kia CS make VW group CS look like angels.

Depends, but I ask to see the print out/screen. I have a battery tester now, but ignore the good and look at the numbers. EDIT: It is worth saying, that once you've found the correct numbers from the battery, then plumbed them in, then done the test it's not easy. You have to consider is the battery connected, temperature and a number of other factors, plus what the car is likely to need to crank. My last battery was showing good, but only 67% capacity, which might be ok for certain jobs, but certainly not ok for cranking a diesel in winter. I got the first hint when it took a bit too long to crank the engine on a cooler day, but was fine on a warmer morning, then bad again as it cooled even though I'd charged it. Sure enough new battery, which I charged before swapping started on the dot and stopped a couple of odd behaviors that I'd seen once or twice. When sensors use 12V as a reference voltage and it isn't quite 12V that they're getting things can get really odd, really quick.

Halfords will do it for free usually and most decent garages will do a check, but may charge. They just put a tester on a battery, but the ones that just say good/bad without a percentage should be ignored. To be honest a new battery on that car is probably cheaper than paying someone to check it.

I agree but for the driver paying their own fuel it’s basically better to have a hybrid due to the difference in mileage payments. Totally coordinated honest guv.

Chinese EV6-a-like?