Monkhai

Currently the availability problems are the issue. Most EV are 9-24 month waits. Solar battery availability is a nightmare. Solar panel availability is a nightmare. Getting the things installed is a complete disaster too. I have to say the EV shine has definitely been tarnished before it’s even turned up.

Honestly Kia appear not to know their arse from their elbow. Some countries saying MY22 gets it, others saying no only MY23. Customer services says can't you just wait for a MY23 car, when I said I'm happy to but dealer wants 50% extra per month they just go quiet. The car was originally going to be delivered as a MY23, so I'm just a bit hopping mad they pulled it forward and didn't ask. Totally sick of it and if this goes south, then I don't think I'll be revisiting a Kia/Hyundai dealer any time in the near future.

Not it, but the mk1 human driving. Apparently turning up regen and disabling cabin heating (with a heat pump) increases heat from regen charging and reduces heat being pulled out of the battery (via the heat pump) 😂😂👍

If they can get that going in 3.5 years based on SSP then I'd seriously consider one of those if the rumoured ranges etc were real.

So ignoring the rumours and things that have been said by various Kia/Hyundai execs and other countries the official line is: - MY22 has a battery heater - MY22 won't get pre-heat en-route to a charger as this is MY 23 everywhere. The rumours say the latter isn't true if you have a battery heater and a heat pump (which I do). I have a feeling that since the car has a battery heater, even if it was cold, it will draw power from a charger to heat the battery once you plug in and whilst it will start slow, it will speed up (Unlike the i5's that don't have a heater). Do others agree with my understanding there? If so then actually if you turn off cabin heating and turn up regen when you're about 15 minutes from your fast charger it might actually start at a decent speed and get warmer/faster due to the heater. Thoughts appreciated as IMHO that's a heck of a lot better than the 35kW average on cars without battery heaters

I get that you'd want better now. However jumping into a car and driving it like a normal car and keeping cool and still getting 3.1 means thinks are looking pretty good should we decide to carry on down the EV route.

That's not bad at all at 3.1 miles/kWh. Doing anything to preserve energy or just driving as normal with regenerative braking?

Yes and fuel has tanked here too, but actually you need to make ICE more expensive to buy new. Put the new car First year tax up steeply on all ICE cars, bar maybe a few very clean hybrids.

The EV grant was just keeping the buy prices higher, with one base model designed to fit just under the old grant bracket. Right now the tax payer shouldn’t be paying private individuals to get EV. Grants for charging hubs in out of the way and rural locations where companies won’t, possibly tied with rural broadband. If Royal Mail was still state owned all local delivery vehicles on electric, but as it’s not laws to stop all these “self employed” delivery drivers in polluting vehicles. Stop companies taking the pee with BIK free cars as a perk. If the government is going to subsidise cars, they need to be built in the UK from a majority UK supply chain. Otherwise they’re just giving taxpayers money away.

I’ve had an informal conversation that Kia stated publicly all EV6 in uk have winter mode and the battery heater. Still waiting for a formal confirmation and also about the preheating update, but as long as the car has a battery heater the rates from cold would likely average high enough to be 10-80 in 30-40 minutes. That would be something you could live with.

I mean at 60p suddenly Tesla makes sense. Im surprised gridserve or someone similar hasn’t come up with a virtual electric tariff or export tariff where they buy the kWh cheap from home owners and trade them off against their consumption.

I have got one coming on the same basis, but between interest rate changes, demand, availability and price increases if I was to order the same car today it would be nearly £200 more a month 😮😮😮 That means the difference to me was £100 a month but now it’s nearly £300. We own our car outright so there is a little bit of doing the right thing too. So yes it made sense, I’m just not so sure it does today with higher buy prices and higher running prices. Still a slowdown blip would let them sort out charger numbers before a glut.

It’s sad that comparing new for new an EV barely makes sense financially as if you ignore the car costs it’s a winner. As for used prices yes complete madness.

They’re both more than a new one though George 😕 The reserved GT Line S is way over RRP, in the standard colour and doesn’t mention the only option, which is a £900 heat pump. I mean look at the price of this 4 year old up… It’s twice the price of a slightly newer, slightly higher miles petrol. £8000 at 10MPL/45MPG is 4000L at £2/L or 40,000 miles. That’s probably more than an average UP will do in 4 years.

Most cars I look at the lease difference vs a petrol or diesel and an equivalent 150-250 mile EV is at least £200. Don’t forget most people will be buying new EVs as there are not that many used and even those that are used are very expensive now. What are you making the monthly base cost you mention from as I cannot understand what it’s coming from? EV insurance is currently more here, but it’s not a huge difference now.

So that doesn't require a certification then? Looks like a good job 👍 On the blower motor, I spy pine needles on the heater matrix. If so they used to kill blower motors, but mainly because they managed to get in and wrap themselves around the bearings or just stuck in a weird place. The motor might well be servicable if you're lucky and with a little cleaning or possibly disasembly you could have it back on your spares shelf

I would say on 12000 miles a year, if you're doing longer trips, let's say you can get there, but can't get back so 50% of the miles are at higher rates. So 6000 miles at 50p (Average of fast and rapid charging) and 6000 miles at 8p. For an EV doing 12000 miles @ 3.5 miles per kWh = £857 + £138 = £995 or 8.3p per mile If you drive a diesel reasonably but normally getting 12.5MPL (About 56MPG) then 12000 miles = £[email protected]/l or 15.2p per mile. Clear win for the EV on fuel alone. You then have the point around the higher cost of an EV is about £200 per month more on rental vs an fairly equivalent diesel, so £2400/12000=20p per mile. Diesel you have £165 tax, lets say an extra £100 on service a year and £35 being hit for a couple of trips into diesel hating towns (£300/12000=2.5p/mile) That's about 28p per mile vs 18 per mile for diesel, so actually it's not making the most sense, particularly if you already own a car... If you have solar, then the cost is about 7p per mile average. If you don't use rapid chargers more than once in a blue moon, but use 7/22kW destination chargers then the 50p can come down to 40p average for the 6000 high price miles and you're at 5.5p per mile... So 25p per mile vs 18p per mile... If you can get nearly all your miles on cheap/free electric (which is still worth 5p for SEG export money), then you're much closer, but even so... Long and short it comes mostly down to the cost of the EV vs the equivalent diesel.

Ouch... well rapid charging won't get used.

I've got a honeywell EvoHome system, which is (IMHO) fantastic and has really saved a lot of money. We do use smart TRV, such that each room is controllable, but the house is on a single circuit. If you can controll each radiator or each room without them, you must have one heck of a complicated zoning setup What sort of things are you interested in? Yes you can using basic TRV, but the better smart ones give you the advantages of a programmable thermostat (6 temperature changes each day) and allow you to set them by the room. You can also turn off the heating and drop it into frost mode whilst you're out, or change temperatures up/down without having to go down to a central stat or TRV. It's not always useful, but for us we had a single stat in the coldest room and a set of TRV that you set to what you'd want the room to be at when it was in use. The advantage of the smart system, was that we can now set the rooms to say 10 degrees when they're not in use and the appropriate temperature when they are. This means we are only heating the rooms you are using and this is automated, such that you don't need to adjust the TRV in the room when you go in. It could be achieved manually, but it's far easier without. Our system also has a stab at (but not true German style external stat) weather compensation, such that if a weather forcast says the house will heat up and the system thinks the house will gain heat quickly enough it won't heat. It can control the hot water temperature on 6 time times, not just on/off, which has additional savings. It's horses for courses, but we think it's taken about 30-40% off out gas consumption over the last couple of years.

Would be nice... just need a tax incentive to make normal petrol stations stock hydrogen in the same way they stock autogas.

Because voice control work so well 😂😂😂😂. Ive not once used a system where it hasn't been told to F off because it’s so useless. Shame most don’t even understand that.

Thread revival, but due to some potential issues with a car on order we had a look at some other options so we know where we are ahead of the outcome of an open question. We tried an Audi e-tron and it had a lower touchscreen with haptic feedback. A big improvement over a touchscreen without it, but still not a patch on a physical button. You had to look down and find it and look until your hand was in the right place. Honestly I think it's a huge mistake from a safety point of view to go to touchscreen for many of these controls.

The Ioniq5 is bigger than the q4

That’s funny as warm weather it’s fast as, but in winter if it doesn’t have the heater it’s terrible. I’m hoping to hear back on the winter heater mind.

The thing is when I'm looking to use the fast charger, I'll be going from 10-20% through to 80%. Otherwise it would just be on the slow charges. The charging locations are likely to be large hubs on these stops, hence the average of 100kW. Obviously if I'm topping up from 40/50%-80 then I know it's going to be slower most of the time. On an ionity 350kW charger however, when up to temperature the car should be able to pull 100kW too. My issue is not that I'm not going to get a flat 220kW, but more that if the car is doing say 30-40kW, it's 1.5hrs to 80% from 5% not 20-30 minutes. Other 400V/100kW cars will get more than 30-40kW in the winter surely? EDIT: Basically I need to know if the car has any battery heating or not. I ordered a heat pump, so it's hopeful, but not certain. With the heater it might be a software upgrade or at least it will get quicker as it heats and charges. Some of the Ioniq 5s (without the eco pack) appear to have no battery heater at all and the batteries seem to generate almost no heat when charging, such that the pack doesn't heat up enough to go faster until the SOC means the charge goes slower.