Monkhai

You'd need to do that and then once that has done, fill it with the appropriate plastic using something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plastic-Soldering-Adjustment-Temperature-Professional/dp/B09VL6P2RG/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=plastic+welding+kit&qid=1662979490&sr=8-6 It might just be chaeper to find a plastic repair company and get them to do it unless you think you'll do it again.

Surprisingly with the 100kW+ prices being so high and the fact that most of my journeys are 100+ each way, it very quickly gets border line. It's far less than a third for me. If you were mostly in traffic driving and some other drives on say country roads, where ICE isn't that efficient, then I would say EV would still probably be a good swap, unless you own the ICE outright. Essentially if you're doing a drive where ICE is efficient right now, own your car outright and don't have solar, then I don't think an EV makes sense If you're paying high prices on an ICE lease already, then the sums are very different and actually the EV call is much closer. For me it doesn't make sense, but it might in the future.

I just had a look at ECP: https://www.eurocarparts.com/suspension-arm-and-suspension-joints I've guessed at a fabia 2012 1.4, but if you put in your reg plate it will give you the right part under suspension arm and suspension joints. I selected lemforder, who are a high quality part and they're showing at a fictional £109 each, with a discount down to £75, which is a more normal price. I'd suggest looking it up in detail, that they are taking the proverbial on parts prices and therfore I would check they are not using genuine skoda parts. (I'm assuming you're not going to a main dealer - if you are find a good indy). TBH, at this point, I'll get off the fence and say try another MOT centre, who are not trying to shaft you and just pay for a second MOT if needed.

£140 + 140 = 280 and if you mean the control arms they can be a bit of a bugger to do, but even if they're not it's got to be aligned afterwards. You could buy the fully bushed control arms, and access to EKTA and DIY, but you have to make sure you're using new bolts and doing everything up to the correct torque. FWIW, where is the wear, as they usually wear out bushes not the arms. I'd almost be tempted to go to another MOT centre and get them to check what exactly is worn. If it's all 4 bushes, then it is likely cheaper to buy the arms and swap them, than take the control arms out, do all the bushes and put it all back.

You are quite correct, I was multi-tasking and not reading what I wrote. What I meant to say (and didn't) was that they'd been out pretty much from the day it was announced. Which and moneysaving export had it uot and about pretty quickly. I do agree the Ofgem site isn't the clearest, but then they are just stating a cap, so it's up to suppliers to advise the price (which can be lower) not ofgem. It's a hard one for ofgem, but then much of the media don't help by only every quoting an average cap.

It already states the average cost per kWh unless I am missing something it was approx 34p for leccy and 10.5p for gas. If I get time I'd put the new data in a spreadsheet, but the above figures have been out for weeks. I've just done the sums and it's not cheaper in the EV6 vs 2.0TDI at £2/litre for my type of journeys. If you're doing mostly town driving then yes, but as soon as you include lots of m/way and a few DC charges a week, the diesel is cheaper. We've cancelled the EV, but what this does give us is time to try and get a solar set up installed after we were shafted by our installer. Once we have that in place, I hope to have gained the use of an SS scheme, so at that point new EVs down the line will be a hopefully cheaper/better option.

I’d suggest it’s worth paying a Garage to get them to diagnose. Otherwise you’ll just end up swapping a huge number of parts which will cost far more than a £60 diagnostic fee.

I know the mk2 was on top and easy, but I thought the mk3 was underneath hidden by the plastic under tray.

Normally I just suck the oil out with the pella pump every 9.5k miles and have a full service done at 18.5k miles (Or whenever the computer asks), but with the car getting a bit older, I'm thinking I might just get off my arris and undo the big piece of plastic to allow myself to do the oil and filter now. Does anyone have any details of the tools needed for the filter housing etc and also any instructions? I'll likely still pump the oil out before removing the oil filter to save the possibility of a mess, but it would be great to know what's what before I venture under the car. it's a 2.0 TDI

We can't get them, so there's no point and a 15k system would cost almost 30, with a low end system costing more than 15. Installation dates are a never never and most vendors are putting the price up more than the cost of this years energy bill predictions. I'm waiting on two companies who have both been honest to the core with me on availability and dates, with one looking promising as long as I go with the panels and everything they use on their small commercial installs. The other have said there is no way I will see a tesla battery this side of mid 2023. I'm so angry, because the reason we went with the installer was the commitment it and the other parts were in stock, but of course they withdrew saying they don't have stock. It's beyond disgusting and I notice we've hopefully had a lucky escape as they are now littered with similar bad reviews online. They don't just have no information they give official answers that directly contradict themselves (each from official sources) about key features. I'm looking at the ability to do an SS with some changes that might come in the near future and at that point a whole extra pile of cars come into the game. Got the MOT this week, so assuming that passes or the car can be made to pass, there is zero logic of paying lots of money for something that isn't what they said it would be and then paying high prices for fuel too.

Combined with the solar repeatedly telling porkies about all the in stock parts along with months of other excuses there is no point in an EV at £0.52/kWh. So in trying to do the right thing for the environment, a single selfish business has killed it and I don’t imagine we will go back as solar prices are now beyond us (Almost double).

Walking away… Kia CS make VW group CS look like angels.

Depends, but I ask to see the print out/screen. I have a battery tester now, but ignore the good and look at the numbers. EDIT: It is worth saying, that once you've found the correct numbers from the battery, then plumbed them in, then done the test it's not easy. You have to consider is the battery connected, temperature and a number of other factors, plus what the car is likely to need to crank. My last battery was showing good, but only 67% capacity, which might be ok for certain jobs, but certainly not ok for cranking a diesel in winter. I got the first hint when it took a bit too long to crank the engine on a cooler day, but was fine on a warmer morning, then bad again as it cooled even though I'd charged it. Sure enough new battery, which I charged before swapping started on the dot and stopped a couple of odd behaviors that I'd seen once or twice. When sensors use 12V as a reference voltage and it isn't quite 12V that they're getting things can get really odd, really quick.

Halfords will do it for free usually and most decent garages will do a check, but may charge. They just put a tester on a battery, but the ones that just say good/bad without a percentage should be ignored. To be honest a new battery on that car is probably cheaper than paying someone to check it.

I agree but for the driver paying their own fuel it’s basically better to have a hybrid due to the difference in mileage payments. Totally coordinated honest guv.

Chinese EV6-a-like?

If you're seeing a lot of random, seemingly unrelated issues my first port of call would be to check the battery and if it's very old or weak then to change it for a new one. A lot of sensors really don't like it when batteries are on their last legs or flat and start coming up with errors. Once you've done that (If it's weak as it's coming up to winter anyway), then clear the fault codes and see what comes back. Those will then be the ones to concentrate on. The wastegate solenoid and the turbo are entirely possible to be related, but if the battery is making the solenoid sensor report bad data the turbo will cut out too thinking there is an error that might not be there.

I've moved the details posts to a new thread in the MK1 fabia section: You'll almost certainly get a lot more help over there

You can claim the difference in tax, however 18p per mile for a circa 50MPG diesel, vs 5p per mile for a 3.5m/kWh electric. @£2/litre, you're really using 27L to do 300 miles, so about £54, whilst being paid £54. @£0.5/kWh, you're using 86kWh, which will cost £43 (Winning) but you get paid only £15 (Losing big time). If the government want people to go electric and help hit the net zero targets then the price per mile for electric needs to be reviewed quarterly as the fuel is. Fuel is priced about right for just fuel and electric costs you about £30/300 miles or 10p per mile.

So I see the HMRC advisory mileage rates have adjusted for fuel, but that electric is still at 5p per mile. That assumes between 15-20p per kWh @ 3-4 miles/kWh. That's a pretty good reasons to avoid going electric if you only get paid the advisory rates.

As an FYI, this can be used with many ctek chargers: https://www.tayna.co.uk/battery-chargers/ctek-accessories/56-263/?msclkid=635f7d2386651f1adabb1e2ca4c566ca

@Subshah Please stop posting in text speak as it’s extremely hard for other to read and search for. This is an English Language forum, albeit with global users. Using text speak just makes it harder for those where English isn’t their first language ( and even those where it is)

I'm surprised as I was thinking along the line of cables. For example a cable to deal with 1000A is a lot lot cheaper to buy, handle and repair/replace sections that deal with 10,000A. I suppose you get around this with more local transformers and running things at higher voltages into the basement of the blocks of flats where it is then stepped down.

If you have a ctek that will charge via the cigarette lighter or any charger that will do 12V supply it'll open. Otherwise you need to bend the lever around the door. It's a stupid design feature of the RHD conversion sadly.

Worries me that the locksmith didn't ask any questions to be honest. They are suppossed to confirm identiy of the person before providing entry to anything locked.