Monkhai

So that doesn't require a certification then? Looks like a good job 👍 On the blower motor, I spy pine needles on the heater matrix. If so they used to kill blower motors, but mainly because they managed to get in and wrap themselves around the bearings or just stuck in a weird place. The motor might well be servicable if you're lucky and with a little cleaning or possibly disasembly you could have it back on your spares shelf

I would say on 12000 miles a year, if you're doing longer trips, let's say you can get there, but can't get back so 50% of the miles are at higher rates. So 6000 miles at 50p (Average of fast and rapid charging) and 6000 miles at 8p. For an EV doing 12000 miles @ 3.5 miles per kWh = £857 + £138 = £995 or 8.3p per mile If you drive a diesel reasonably but normally getting 12.5MPL (About 56MPG) then 12000 miles = £[email protected]/l or 15.2p per mile. Clear win for the EV on fuel alone. You then have the point around the higher cost of an EV is about £200 per month more on rental vs an fairly equivalent diesel, so £2400/12000=20p per mile. Diesel you have £165 tax, lets say an extra £100 on service a year and £35 being hit for a couple of trips into diesel hating towns (£300/12000=2.5p/mile) That's about 28p per mile vs 18 per mile for diesel, so actually it's not making the most sense, particularly if you already own a car... If you have solar, then the cost is about 7p per mile average. If you don't use rapid chargers more than once in a blue moon, but use 7/22kW destination chargers then the 50p can come down to 40p average for the 6000 high price miles and you're at 5.5p per mile... So 25p per mile vs 18p per mile... If you can get nearly all your miles on cheap/free electric (which is still worth 5p for SEG export money), then you're much closer, but even so... Long and short it comes mostly down to the cost of the EV vs the equivalent diesel.

Ouch... well rapid charging won't get used.

I've got a honeywell EvoHome system, which is (IMHO) fantastic and has really saved a lot of money. We do use smart TRV, such that each room is controllable, but the house is on a single circuit. If you can controll each radiator or each room without them, you must have one heck of a complicated zoning setup What sort of things are you interested in? Yes you can using basic TRV, but the better smart ones give you the advantages of a programmable thermostat (6 temperature changes each day) and allow you to set them by the room. You can also turn off the heating and drop it into frost mode whilst you're out, or change temperatures up/down without having to go down to a central stat or TRV. It's not always useful, but for us we had a single stat in the coldest room and a set of TRV that you set to what you'd want the room to be at when it was in use. The advantage of the smart system, was that we can now set the rooms to say 10 degrees when they're not in use and the appropriate temperature when they are. This means we are only heating the rooms you are using and this is automated, such that you don't need to adjust the TRV in the room when you go in. It could be achieved manually, but it's far easier without. Our system also has a stab at (but not true German style external stat) weather compensation, such that if a weather forcast says the house will heat up and the system thinks the house will gain heat quickly enough it won't heat. It can control the hot water temperature on 6 time times, not just on/off, which has additional savings. It's horses for courses, but we think it's taken about 30-40% off out gas consumption over the last couple of years.

Would be nice... just need a tax incentive to make normal petrol stations stock hydrogen in the same way they stock autogas.

Because voice control work so well 😂😂😂😂. Ive not once used a system where it hasn't been told to F off because it’s so useless. Shame most don’t even understand that.

Thread revival, but due to some potential issues with a car on order we had a look at some other options so we know where we are ahead of the outcome of an open question. We tried an Audi e-tron and it had a lower touchscreen with haptic feedback. A big improvement over a touchscreen without it, but still not a patch on a physical button. You had to look down and find it and look until your hand was in the right place. Honestly I think it's a huge mistake from a safety point of view to go to touchscreen for many of these controls.

The Ioniq5 is bigger than the q4

That’s funny as warm weather it’s fast as, but in winter if it doesn’t have the heater it’s terrible. I’m hoping to hear back on the winter heater mind.

The thing is when I'm looking to use the fast charger, I'll be going from 10-20% through to 80%. Otherwise it would just be on the slow charges. The charging locations are likely to be large hubs on these stops, hence the average of 100kW. Obviously if I'm topping up from 40/50%-80 then I know it's going to be slower most of the time. On an ionity 350kW charger however, when up to temperature the car should be able to pull 100kW too. My issue is not that I'm not going to get a flat 220kW, but more that if the car is doing say 30-40kW, it's 1.5hrs to 80% from 5% not 20-30 minutes. Other 400V/100kW cars will get more than 30-40kW in the winter surely? EDIT: Basically I need to know if the car has any battery heating or not. I ordered a heat pump, so it's hopeful, but not certain. With the heater it might be a software upgrade or at least it will get quicker as it heats and charges. Some of the Ioniq 5s (without the eco pack) appear to have no battery heater at all and the batteries seem to generate almost no heat when charging, such that the pack doesn't heat up enough to go faster until the SOC means the charge goes slower.

The issue I have is that in winter 6 hours of driving might not become 6 to 7, but more like 8+. That would be a killer. Also @lol-lol the Kia battery is 800V, so 200kW is not actually any worse than a much lower speed on a 400v architecture. TBH it’s not the 200 I need, but I need to know it can average around 100 even in winter.

The car ordered stated the feature already existed and made no mention at all of subject to conditions (which are almost impossible to achieve in UK) in the brochure. Less than 50% nearly always would be beyond poor. Cost to walk away, less than one month rental and probably nothing.

I also thought that and I'm waiting for confirmation in writing that the fast charging will come as an update or not. The car can in theory charge up to 200+ kW, but if the weather isn't right. I had a look at the polestar 2 and have to say it's poor, but also the only polestar dealer is nearly 200 miles away. The ioniq 6 looks interesting, but once bitten... Everything else I have looked at is at least £200 more per month and at least a 9 month, although many with a 12 month+ estimated lead time. The complication is that the diesel has a home to go to already, as a family member needs to replace their car. The usage isn't regular currently and at the moment it's more like 1 trip a week every few weeks, but that was regular and I imagine that it will return to 2-3 days of travel a week. Hoping to convince the office to go up to 32A chargers, but there's no certainty on that.

I have an opinion, but I wanted to get some others here. The EV6 appears to being built a lot earlier than expected, so would be a MY22, rather than MY23. Most of the changes are very minor and include: Optimised seats on the base spec (This doesn't affect us) A bit of carpet in the jumbo box equivalent to quieten it down (Easy to fix) Over the air updates ( I think only for NAV). Battery pre-conditioning when en-route to a rapid charger (Via in built NAV) So the OTA, I don't care about and I am pretty certain it will come via a dealer update to enable it anyway, as the hardware is there. The seat changes wouldn't effect our car and the carpet in the jumbo box is something trivial to add, potentially even by buying the OEM part and applying it. The battery pre-conditioning for rapid charging however is a bit of a bummer and by the looks of things can really make a huge difference to charging speeds for the first 15 minutes in the cold. At the moment online sources suggest there may be an update to enable this, as the car has a heater, but it's not a given and is showing as a new feature on the MY23. Without this, you have to turn off climate control, increase regen and hope the battery is warming up before you get to the charger, as otherwise the charging rate could start as low as 30kW and average 80-100kW. Once the battery is up to 25 degrees, then it can do the full 220kW, so the summer should be fine. Options are: 1) Walk away 2) Take the car and live with it 3) Cancel the order and order an MY23. If we do the latter, then there appears to be a significant price increase (£200 per month) Thought on how much you think it would affect your choices. Driving tends to be mostly short journeys or very long round trips (500-600 miles in a day) The latter depends on the job as to how frequent they are, but typically it's 2-3 days a week with no destination charging or a shorter 400 mile round trip with an office stop of 4-6 hours with destination charging at 3.6Kw for 3-5 daysa week All of these are doable on a single tank of diesel and a 20 minute bathroom break each way is no issue at all. 30 minutes is a push, but not a huge hardship, however even if you assume an average of 50kW charge, then you're looking at 60-80 minutes to get a 75% charge. Obviously this ignores charging will warm the battery so it might speed up, but it's a big concern. If the firmware update is real, then that's great, but if not then it's a vastly different car. What is anyone experience with charging rates in the real world on other cars?

I think I said before, but a small range extender engine, like a generator, with a 5L fuel tank or a LPG/CNG generator and 10KG capacity tank would be enough to get you where you need to be. Most hybrids are carrying a full engine, transmission and 40+ litre fuel tank, such that the engine can drive the wheels. If you're adding 50kg to a car, but saving 150+kg of batteries, meaning you can do 150 real miles easily, and RE up another 75-100 miles, then I've no issue with that. Sadly that' s not the direction most manufactuers are in and the octavia iV is adding nearly 300kg to the equivalent car.

Edit... I should have added, the CR140 is one of the engines affected by dieselgate (You'll have to check if it's all model of the engine), but as such I'd expect a large discount on these and personally I wouldn't touch one. Having run a PD140 for a lot of miles, I liked it a lot, but make sure the Dual Mass Flywheel is not noisy when you test drive them. If it is it's a decent bill to replace and you might as well do the clutch whilst it's all out. If it's a higher mile car at a decent price, that may not be an issue, but just something to be aware of.

I’d suggest a short subscription to ekta and printing out the parts list of areas you’re interested in for the 4x4 and the vrs. The differing part numbers will reveal all 👍 FWIW the 4x4 has higher suspension than a vrs and I think the vrs got upgraded brakes but the 4x4 didn’t.

I imagine some research around a series of layers which might slow a halo riding car but also have a suitable effect on a car on their tyres would be a good thing. Perhaps a first tyre wall close to the circuit and then gravel then a lattery tyre wall and strong last gasp fence. Either way, it's something that will need looking into by those with the equipment to do so.

Good advice to avoid the plonkers has already been given. Just remember no test drive ever has any obligation to then buy the car, becuase you might not like it. Time wise my general thoughts are to decide what you're predominantly use the car for, town/country or motorway. If you're unsure on the car you want and doing initial looks, then do your research and sit in the cars in a showroom and narrow it down to maybe 5-10 you like the cabin/room etc of. Once you have a list of say 5-10 cars then a 30 minute test drive is totally reasonable. When you're down to 2-3 cars then you work out how long it would take you to get to your required road type (town, country or motorway), factor that into the time and add 30 minutes on to the time to get to it. Typically an hour. If you are serious then few companies will refuse you a good length test drive when you can name the 2 or 3 other cars you are thinking of. Of course there is always the exception, such as an certain dealer that refused to let me drive a car because I clearly couldnt' afford it. (I'd come in wearing jeans and a t-shirt)

The outlander was the worst but the data was from the whole fleet and included a number of hybrids. At the end of the day they looked at their data and as the company was paying for fuel made their choices.

If you’d seen the bill for batteries…. Also don’t forget there have been years of fuel card data for hybrids and PHEV, so it’s clear to them the increased fuel spends per mile drive vs pure ice.

The outlander was the vehicle that had them banned from fleet. No range, terrible MPG and charges to replace never charged battery on return. They got VAT relief at a higher rate I believe and hybrids no longer qualify.

kia EV6 GT is not so heavy for an SUV, but definitely not light either. 0-60 of 3.something seconds and beats most super cars in a drag (a Mclaren came back the others didn’t). That did it with the same motors and battery as an AWD ev6 and a few handling upgrades plus a motor inverter upgrade Bently will be fine, because frankly EV are so quick anyway. I imagine they way they will get to 1.5s would be to strip weight as 300-400hp per tonne is already here. I guess time will tell 👍

In a 2 car household I completely understand one EV and one ICE. The issue with the hybrid is the poor MPG vs an equivalent ice on longer journeys. I totally get your point about range anxiety though so yes it’s an issue that needs better infrastructure. On the chargers, few destinations have rapids and a PHEV can be full on even a 7kW very quickly so don’t need to take up the EV dedicated bays all day. Also a good number of rapids have a 22/50kW AC port and I’ve seen plenty of hybrids in the bay sat there for a long time. There are 7kW free next door. Again it comes down to education and a combination of penalties such as idle charging. I’d quite like to see a charge for cars charging at 7kW or less on anything in a dedicated rapid bay. On a phev plus side, they’re far less annoying than an EV/phev/self charging car parked in EV bays and not plugged in 😡

Hybrids are bad, because they tow around a lot of weight when for many journeys they are not taking advantage of the weight. 300kg extra on batteries that affects range from power, on ICE it affects range/MPG on both it affects performance. Charging wise, they are bad when they are sat at a charger bay for hours, idle. A 15 minute charge, or plugging them in when every parking bay has a 10-32Amp charge point is a different matter. Right now they are harming EV adoption, because the infrastructure isn't there and the stuff that is around is very often blocked off by them. The second point is more related to the fact that they shouldn't be sat idle or in charging bays for hours and hours, which they often are here. That is a bonus and the plan here, but not being able to get home, because you can't charge your EV because a hybrid has blocked the charger bay (Even though they were full in less than an hour). Again it's really down to poor infrastructure for electrification. I think the price of batteries may change the course of electrification, but current hybrids are just ICE cars with a load of weight and parts to get a little distance on electric, which as mentioned elsewhere isn't always green. I can respect a 1.5 choice, I can respect somebody going EV, the hybrid route makes no sense to me. At least the plugin hybrids have some plus points, the self charging ones are a joke. I understand it and I've not got a problem with it. I think hearing how great a PHEV is reminds me very much of when I worked with somebody who owned one of the early prius. They were all sanctamonius about how great his MPG was and how the car was amazing. The talk was about how they could get 45-50MPG on a good run, whilst at the same time we were all seeing way over that in the diesels even on a bad run. Fundamentally the advantage of a PHEV is really with the car manufacturer. They charge more, use a smaller engine and a battery, which gives a lower official (But rarely real world) emissions figure. This helps them avoid EU fines and allows them to get higher performance from a smaller engine. It's good, but it's not green. Nothing is zero emissions. My argument is that if people are doing low enough PHEV miles to always be on battery, they should have just gone EV and hired ICE when they needed to go over 250-300 miles. If they're regularly doing longer journeys, then the weight penalty is always there and after the first 20-30 miles your MPG suffers for it. At which point a TDI or TSI is a better bet. The hybrid might be a nice idea, but in reality having both engine and transmission as well as battery and motor is a huge weight penalty. In reality you would better off doing a range extender (i3 Rx) so the engine never drives the wheels, which would save loads of weight in transmission and a smaller engine as a generator only. You could also swap petrol for CNG or Autogas etc and have a less heavy generator. Really as above, I think the current and previous generation of PHEV, bar a small number (i3 Rx) are greenwashing. The choice is fine, but the PHEV shouldn't receive tax breaks for being green.