Monkhai

ColinD already commented on the thread, so I will just point out that we won’t be carrying on an argument past that point. Just accept people have different views and speak to others as you would like to be spoken to yourself 👍

A bug in the driver assistance features would be considered by most potential buyers as pretty dangerous. I can understand why people might want to complain about it bearing in mind the poster is saying that it is a known bug without a fix. I know my emergency brake system on the mk3 had a few moments where it screams an alarm and brakes for no obvious reason, the high beam assist is rubbish too and that is left off. Doesn't mean it's a rubbish car, but critisism where it's due is fair. Just because a car is great in some ways doesn't mean it's without flaws, so I'm sure we can all get along and agree it's great in some ways and has problems in others.👍

There are two hydraulic cylinders on the clutch system. One is located at the clutch pedal end and the other is inside the gearbox. Neither are changed as part of a standard clutch replacement, but if either fails you get poor clutch performance and odd bite points. I would suggest in this order 1) get the cutch bled (It can be and trapped air causes problems) 2) change the clutch hydraulic cylinder behind the clutch pedal (This is cheaper to get to) 3) if this doesn't work, then it's a gearbox off time for a check of everything in the clutch is in to make sure it's in good condition and to replace the slave cylinder whilst it's off. There is no point not changing the slave cylinder unless it's 100% known good due to labour costs. TBH if you're in there, you might even want to do another clutch kit as the cost of the labour will be as much or more than the cost of the clutch and clutch slave cylinder. Further suggestion to add to point 3, would be have you had the DMF checked, as whilst it doesn't cause clutch issues directly, it can cause some other issues which can cause odd behaviour with clutch parts. You say you've changed the cylinders, but if you bleed it and then air gets in, either you have a faulty cylinder, an air leak in a hydraulic line or you've just not bled all the air out. New cylinders can be faulty as I've been there and had the t-shirt luckily under warranty.

This is a duplicate of another post which is already being discussed on the below thread, so I'm locking this to keep things simple. Please post replied in the below thread:

I think both sides of the argument have some validity. Perhaps an addition to the first post by the OP stating that you should backup the configs before doing anything, you should understand what the changes do before making them and that they are carried out at your own risk? Then I think we can say it's up to people if they want to mess around with their cars.

A polite reminder that people remember: 1) People have feelings and please post thinking how you would feel in receipt of a similar post. 2) Threads are supposed to be about a subject and obviously multiple subjects should have multiple threads. When things diverge, it's probably better to have a new thread rather than a very large single thread, as it makes it easier to find things. 3) It's not anyone's thread, it's a thread on the forum.

That should be a fine of 10% of the value of the vehicle when it was new. 10% for first offence, 20% second and so on. 11th is the value of the vehicle when new, and the vehicle is towed 12th is the value of the vehicle when new and the vehicle is towed and sold. That should make the rounds on your local social media, as with that personalised reg plate on a fairly old RR sport, it'll get around to people who know them fairly quickly I'd imagine.

They sell a harvi which allows wireless access to the CT clamp output and a hub which allows internet connectivity. I was going to buy the harvi and hub to monitor things, however found out this hub is just a wireless gateway to the net which doesn’t function without a zappi or eddi. I called to ask why it had gone from the website to be told it was now integrated into the zappi and eddi.

Just a useful update for anyone looking at Zappi or Eddi, the hub is now (for new deliveries) included in both the Eddi and Zappi so no longer required.

Will have a look, but I've just been quoted £1995 for a Zappi, Harvi and Eddi.... which seems quite high to me. Parts cost is about £1200 and if it's being done at the same time as other work, then I'd expect a labour discount. That's an installed price, inc VAT and obviously without the £350 "grant", but still.

Sounds like a what are these things for... My initial thoughts when I saw the thread title was that a child had posted french fries into the vents and help was needed on how to extract them without damage/large cost.

Smart (ish) charger recommendations, that can charge off excess solar only but have a timed boost off grid. Anderdon a2 and zappi seem top of my list with ohme on the sidelines. Anyone got any of those installed or have thoughts.

As you're only looking at variations on the superb, I've moved your thread to the superb section where you'll probably get more replies. 👍

You're still showing as a standard member, but I've highlighted it to an admin to see. Did you get an e-mail etc confirming your payment and freedom membership etc?

There’s already plenty of discussion on the linked thread, so it’s probably best continued there. 👍

I’ve moved this to the Octavia section, so you should hopefully get some more answers As a general rule, all posts to the forum should be in a English, although I can see your first post has been translated by another user. 👍

I beg to differ, a tank of petrol which isn't perfectly sealed, will quite definely explode. Ditto for LPG and CNG (use in some cars) or gas cylinders for a BBQ/caravan. No loss on the caravan IMHO mind. Not saying NMC batteries are fantastic, but LFP are a fair bit less bad if they do go. They're both Lithium-Ion batteries not Lithium metal batteries mind. All batteries that are properly made have a battery management system. This is particularly so in cars and battery solar storage systems. A BMS does exactly that and stops the batteries from being over discharged or overcharged as it manages the charging process and monitors the cells too. The samsung node was actually due to the phone case not giving the battery enough room to expand/contract resulting in physical damage. I think the same might be true re the dreamliners. Physical/mechanical damage will cause problems in anything, although I will fully admit the batteries, particularly pouch ones are more vulnerable, particularly if badly designed. (Like say an old school petrol tank - they will improve/be replaced by new tech in time) I mean if you want to play that game... https://abcnews.go.com/Business/bmw-mystery-fires-abc-news-investigation/story?id=47335778 https://wsvn.com/news/local/miami-dade/car-catches-fire-inside-university-of-miami-parking-garage/ and

That too

Just as a side point, petrol cars used to run carbs and have rear fill fuel tanks which were in the boot. A few years later rear fill goes, then the tank goes under the rear seats to protect it and carbs go and are replaced with injectors with safety systems. I'm not suggesting batteries in their current state are good and certainly I'm not super happy with them. I'd like to see home storage coming from other safer systems and yes I'd like a fuel cell car. However we shouldn't forget that petrol cars were worse and now they're much safer. Generation 3 of EV might well learn a lot from Gen2, which learnt a lot from Gen1 and the protoypes. Wether it's battery, fuel cell or something completely different, new cars won't be powered by petrol or diesel from 2030 onwards.

Shipping a known good lithium ion battery is easy, but try shipping faulty ones back. I have experience of this over years in IT both trying to get faulty ones back from customers to test and sending them back. Problem is it’s the faulty packs that people don’t want to touch as it’s too unpredictable. I would imagine a dry powder/foam based system could be build into the battery trays in the future to keep oxygen out. Water on the other hand… no thanks 😂😂

Petrol fires are not easy but not hard to put out. Injection and fuel cut off etc has helped reduce numbers. Diesel is pretty safe really, but brake fluid on the other hand… Hydrogen will generally float away before it goes bang, although if it does go up it’ll certainly be noticeable. EV lithium batteries have the issue that they’re hard to put out and once out other cells damaged by the initial fire may go up at any time. If there is tech developed that will put out a lithium fire and keep it out great. Otherwise something will be needed to segregate batteries so only small parts get damaged. There will of course be some fake news in there but also some truth. As with ICE cars, standards and tests will need to be developed.

The supercharger network is a huge boon and the one this that keeps those cars going. I'd love to see a law where charging networks must be available to any CCS (Or whatever the accepted national standard is) equipped vehicle. Sure they'll have standard public rate and members rates, but something like that would force all charging points to be available to nearly all car owners.Yes it might not be cheap, but then neither is a motorway filling station. They both however allow you to continue (at a cost) if you're low on fuel. Something else I'd like to see if higher rates charged on the super fast chargers if you're only taking a small charge or slow charge rate. I see way too many hybrid cars parked up on DC chargers, most of which don't charge that fast or if they do don't take much charge. An idle charge can help, but why use a 150/300kW charger if you can't pull faster than 50 and there are 50/100's available.

Indeed, the thing I was talking about was a lower cost, due to the lack of oil change and less waste from filters etc. One car I looked at needed a bi-annual service/check a bit like the extended service of VW, a change of SOS battery every 4 years and a replacement of the battery coolant fluid at 5 years. When I priced up of paying for all the service vs a tyre free maintainance plan it was nowhere near close and on speaking to the dealer a new maintainance plan for EV is being created as the manufacturer realised it was a bit of a joke. The 2 yearly check is brake fluid, a visual check and a battery check and maintainance discharge/charge cycle if needed. Consumables such as pads/discs are chargeable on ICE or on EV and whilst the extra weight eats them quicker, the regenerative braking reduces the load on them. All a bit of a round about. As the video above shows, EV batteries come from a mix of fossil fuels and minerals that are extracted in less the equitable conditions. I still like the idea of hydrogen fuel cells, but in the short term it's going to be a major investment in solar panels/batteries and then have one ICE car and one EV car. They will have different purposes so rather than a replacement, it's a different tool for a different job. EV = daily short trips, fuel security (Ironically), reduced daily costs and entering towns/cities with charges or bans ICE = long range trips, which don't happen frequently and a second vehicle for when we both need a car at the same time. The EV becomes the day to day vehicle and the ICE a specialist one until either fuel cells and hydrogen come along, or a battery can do 10 year + life, with 450 miles and 10 minutes from 10%-80%.

So at current rates, it's around £2-£3 per day, subject to weather/temperature just to be sat on the drive and a couple of trips to the shops. I'm just looking at this as a whole picture: - Relatively high price of ownership - Cost of keeping the car eats into fuel/tax savings - Tax savings are going to be short lived (They're talking per mile/per weight taxes) - Large investment to keep costs down (Solar panels/battery) - Range anxiety until public charging is sorted out. Up sides: - Fuel Security (With Solar Panels) - Lower running costs (Particularly with Solar Panels/Battery) - Cleaner - In theory less to go wrong - In theory cheaper servicing

Just wondering if anyone has info/data on the electric cost of an EV doing no miles or local shopping miles over a few winter months?