Monkhai

If you wish to advertise on Briskoda, then I’m afraid you must be a freedom member to do so.

I was looking up parts for a petrol engine as I’d stupidly seen >2L and thought it was the vr6 engine. You are far more likely to be correct on the part number, but the part looks very similar to part 10, so I wonder if it’s a common part with different part numbers per brand. was 4b0 a Passat by any chance?

I've already moved the thread for you In terms of parts, I've linked to two suppliers in my second post just above this one. If you click the section that says reveal hidden contents you'll see two links

This the correct part? - Part number is 4B0422893A If so I've put a link to one I've found in the spoiler section below.

Would I be correct in thinking this is a MK1 skoda superb? If so it's essentially a stretched passat, so you may well find you can widen your search for parts if you're lucky. Somebody somewhere will make the part and even if they didn't you could almost certainly get a custom one made up for far less than it would cost to buy a banger at current second hand car prices. For now I'll move the thread to the MK1 Superb section, as you'll get a wider audience there.

Like you, car came with 18, but the winter 16" get better MPG, even when they're running winter tyres. Makes little sense in a world of increasing energy prices and targeting lower CO2 emissions. 205/55/R16 is a good tyre size for comfort and stability although I wouldn't object to a 17" for sportier versions. 15/16/17 used to be the choice and now we are at 19/20/21 are the choices. Perhaps substance ought to come above style a bit once again, but I doubt it will happen.

Understandable, possibly worth a poke as if the first post is genuine. A light digging suggests it may be: https://parcelsapp.com/en/tracking/cc1143725 leads to here: https://www.parcelforce.com/track-trace?trackNumber=CC1143725 and further details on the print proof of delivery button... Out of principle if it is not resolved, then I would inform the police. Even if they don't do anything further and only log it at least there is a record it's not a one off error should a theme develop down the line. Obviously I make no judgement about what has gone on, but as you say things happen, communication is key.

It's a confusing article, clearly as a pitch for their fuel and fuel cell. It's 80% less CO2 than a toyota mirai (hydrogen fuel cell) and it reduces CO2 emissions 80% vs a petrol car if you're burning their fuel. Interesting as the tech could be (and freely admit I don't know enough about it), the above pair of claims suggest someone somewhere between the marketing department and the journo has possibly either got confused or been a bit liberal with the facts.

Whilst it's nice to see the smaller EV, why are all EV coming with 19/20/21" wheels? Drop down to a 16" wheel size or even a 17" and the range would go up due to lower rolling resistance. Would also reduce tyre replacement costs and the cost per mile

Yes but mileage claim is supposed to cover wear and tear, costs of insurance, servicing as a true cost per mile, not a cost of just fuel per mile. TBH, I would suggest that the 4-5p per mile needs to become 10p before taxable (for electric) and the 45p needs to become 55-60 before being taxable. These amounts are not what you have to get paid, they are the amounts the company can pay you before it's taxable and where you can claim the tax difference to if paid less.

Since you have the order number and details of the supplier would it perhaps be worth contacting them to see if the order number is indeed valid? Also as that picture was willingly posted and has a tracking number on it the courier tracking website might provide you with some details. Obviously it goes without saying neither can give you contact details for the buyer, but might be willing to give them to the police etc. If you do find out details and never get the goods/a reply, I’d be tempted to speak to an insurance body to make sure it was a declared mod and that it was sold on. If it wasn’t that would potentially introduce an element of fraud into the claim, which Insurance companies tend to take quite seriously these days. Also there is a thread showing the posters new car which appear to include a reg plate of the old and new car if you were to look out for their posts. Fingers crossed its gone quiet for another valid reason, as if someone was going to no ship you would expect them not to post identifiable information out there.

I can see why that would be infuriating…

What are the criteria for an auto? Car isn't moving and in neutral with the handbrake on? It can't just be a car in drive and not moving surely?

In manual cars it only cuts out when you are stopped, in neutral and with the clutch up. I don't see how on a manual car it could cause that. On an auto I guess it could be more annoying.

The article you link to just make me think is GB News a con? I think we all know the answer to that I'm counting down the months until we might finally see an EV to be honest.

So even if you have an exact replica of the correct tank built you need a cert? Sounds expensive 😞 Hopefully you can find a genuine tank in good condition 👍 This the set up you are supposed to have? http://www.t85q.com/urTfa/Subgroups/fuel.html

Is it possible to source the later revision tank or get one built for your car without spending eye watering amounts? I imagine the rollover protection valve would be a nice safety upgrade if you’re looking to fix it. Goodness knows why they welded that steel tank up. I do wonder if the back panel is straight and the fuel filler where is should be if they resorted to that sort of thing. I hate it when people bodge it because they CBA, but hopefully you can sort it at reasonable cost.

Steel tank? If so I assume rust hasn't set in and caused problems at the internal end of the vent pipe? Sadly it would mean a further opportunity to lighten your wallet. 😞 Looking at 14, it just appears they moved from the vent to atmosphere to vent to the tank input and I don't think that's going to be your issue myself. I mean if it's venting successfully to atmosphere, then bar the pollution/flamable vapour escape risk, the flow of air in isn't going to be any faster if you then force the vapour back down the filler pipe. Of course I could be wrong. It's not clear to me from the diagram why 12/13 connects up to pipe 30, except perhaps as a fuel supply and 28 being the return (or the other way around). If that's the case, then is the 8/11 pipe actually a vent, because if not then you would need pipe 14. All the joy of an older car hey I have to say though, I'm loving seeing rusty going around, it's an iconic car EDIT: I posted before I saw the last post with pictures. That looks like it's a plastic tank although I'm not sure the up hill filler would cause the sort of problems you are seeing. Interestingly the shape of your tank and their tank is different as you can see yours rises to a peak on the left, but their tank is far more flat on that side. I assume your tank has the vent pipe from the peak of the tank which is why the shape is different? Definately go for the custom baffled fuel tank in shiny/expensive material option 👍😂😂😂 One further, potentially very stupid thought... when it's on a go slow fill, have you tried opening the boot lid? I only ask as I can see you've had some painting done in there and I'm just wondering if somehow a boot vent flap or similar is blocked. I can't imagine for a second it would be that, because there is no way air should be being pulled in from that area, but then it's another stupid thing to rule out if it was fine at some point in the past.

That green stripe is the colour maxidot and the non-colour one doesn't even have the green stripe. It sounds to me like whilst the radio etc might sync, the maxi-dot currently isn't (and possibly isn't going to). I'd speak to the dealer that did the update for you.

Did you trace your fuel filling issues? I know on the TDI there was the vent pipe and a valve and whilst many people removed the valve to get more derv in, they could block up too. I'm wondering if some old crud in the tank that's made it's way up into the vent is a problem? As it's "only" the vent, I imagine it could be quite easily adapted to utilise one from a more modern VW group car if availability is an issue. Coming back to the painful fuel bill, at least your two discounts covered the pie

You can add another image in a new post, as you won't be able to add to your first post.

And if they're like that before they've got your money... I had the same and it's not just VW group, but it will backfire as people go online to buy cars and there is a need for fewer showrooms in the future. The showroom will be for the people who don't see a car as a functional consumer good.

Having done many installations of 5e, 6 and 6a, I'd say if you want an easy life stick to 6. 6a is a bugger to get right at the ends and has a much wider bend radius due to the very solid core. FYI Cat7 isn't a successor to Cat6, it's an alternative attempt to standardise copper 10GbE which didn't even use RJ45. I imagine people are making "Cat7" cable, but what it is is anyones guess as it's not an official standard for RJ45 copper ethernet. Essentially: - Cat 5e - Cat 6 = 55m feet limit for 10GbE - Cat 6a = full length for 10GbE - Cat 8 - successor to Cat 6a, 40GbE @ approx 20m, 25GbE@approx 30m, beyond 30m (100ft) it's the same as 6a, so save the money.

Yes, it is App Gallery It was released shortly before the US fell out with China and had enough to make the phones remain useful. There was a reasonable mapping software in there too. Be interesting to see how alternatives to ZapMap come along and how people get on with them, as I will need them in a few months.

OT but you have installed the Huawei App Store?