Monkhai

Since you have the order number and details of the supplier would it perhaps be worth contacting them to see if the order number is indeed valid? Also as that picture was willingly posted and has a tracking number on it the courier tracking website might provide you with some details. Obviously it goes without saying neither can give you contact details for the buyer, but might be willing to give them to the police etc. If you do find out details and never get the goods/a reply, I’d be tempted to speak to an insurance body to make sure it was a declared mod and that it was sold on. If it wasn’t that would potentially introduce an element of fraud into the claim, which Insurance companies tend to take quite seriously these days. Also there is a thread showing the posters new car which appear to include a reg plate of the old and new car if you were to look out for their posts. Fingers crossed its gone quiet for another valid reason, as if someone was going to no ship you would expect them not to post identifiable information out there.

I can see why that would be infuriating…

What are the criteria for an auto? Car isn't moving and in neutral with the handbrake on? It can't just be a car in drive and not moving surely?

In manual cars it only cuts out when you are stopped, in neutral and with the clutch up. I don't see how on a manual car it could cause that. On an auto I guess it could be more annoying.

The article you link to just make me think is GB News a con? I think we all know the answer to that I'm counting down the months until we might finally see an EV to be honest.

So even if you have an exact replica of the correct tank built you need a cert? Sounds expensive 😞 Hopefully you can find a genuine tank in good condition 👍 This the set up you are supposed to have? http://www.t85q.com/urTfa/Subgroups/fuel.html

Is it possible to source the later revision tank or get one built for your car without spending eye watering amounts? I imagine the rollover protection valve would be a nice safety upgrade if you’re looking to fix it. Goodness knows why they welded that steel tank up. I do wonder if the back panel is straight and the fuel filler where is should be if they resorted to that sort of thing. I hate it when people bodge it because they CBA, but hopefully you can sort it at reasonable cost.

Steel tank? If so I assume rust hasn't set in and caused problems at the internal end of the vent pipe? Sadly it would mean a further opportunity to lighten your wallet. 😞 Looking at 14, it just appears they moved from the vent to atmosphere to vent to the tank input and I don't think that's going to be your issue myself. I mean if it's venting successfully to atmosphere, then bar the pollution/flamable vapour escape risk, the flow of air in isn't going to be any faster if you then force the vapour back down the filler pipe. Of course I could be wrong. It's not clear to me from the diagram why 12/13 connects up to pipe 30, except perhaps as a fuel supply and 28 being the return (or the other way around). If that's the case, then is the 8/11 pipe actually a vent, because if not then you would need pipe 14. All the joy of an older car hey I have to say though, I'm loving seeing rusty going around, it's an iconic car EDIT: I posted before I saw the last post with pictures. That looks like it's a plastic tank although I'm not sure the up hill filler would cause the sort of problems you are seeing. Interestingly the shape of your tank and their tank is different as you can see yours rises to a peak on the left, but their tank is far more flat on that side. I assume your tank has the vent pipe from the peak of the tank which is why the shape is different? Definately go for the custom baffled fuel tank in shiny/expensive material option 👍😂😂😂 One further, potentially very stupid thought... when it's on a go slow fill, have you tried opening the boot lid? I only ask as I can see you've had some painting done in there and I'm just wondering if somehow a boot vent flap or similar is blocked. I can't imagine for a second it would be that, because there is no way air should be being pulled in from that area, but then it's another stupid thing to rule out if it was fine at some point in the past.

That green stripe is the colour maxidot and the non-colour one doesn't even have the green stripe. It sounds to me like whilst the radio etc might sync, the maxi-dot currently isn't (and possibly isn't going to). I'd speak to the dealer that did the update for you.

Did you trace your fuel filling issues? I know on the TDI there was the vent pipe and a valve and whilst many people removed the valve to get more derv in, they could block up too. I'm wondering if some old crud in the tank that's made it's way up into the vent is a problem? As it's "only" the vent, I imagine it could be quite easily adapted to utilise one from a more modern VW group car if availability is an issue. Coming back to the painful fuel bill, at least your two discounts covered the pie

You can add another image in a new post, as you won't be able to add to your first post.

And if they're like that before they've got your money... I had the same and it's not just VW group, but it will backfire as people go online to buy cars and there is a need for fewer showrooms in the future. The showroom will be for the people who don't see a car as a functional consumer good.

Having done many installations of 5e, 6 and 6a, I'd say if you want an easy life stick to 6. 6a is a bugger to get right at the ends and has a much wider bend radius due to the very solid core. FYI Cat7 isn't a successor to Cat6, it's an alternative attempt to standardise copper 10GbE which didn't even use RJ45. I imagine people are making "Cat7" cable, but what it is is anyones guess as it's not an official standard for RJ45 copper ethernet. Essentially: - Cat 5e - Cat 6 = 55m feet limit for 10GbE - Cat 6a = full length for 10GbE - Cat 8 - successor to Cat 6a, 40GbE @ approx 20m, 25GbE@approx 30m, beyond 30m (100ft) it's the same as 6a, so save the money.

Yes, it is App Gallery It was released shortly before the US fell out with China and had enough to make the phones remain useful. There was a reasonable mapping software in there too. Be interesting to see how alternatives to ZapMap come along and how people get on with them, as I will need them in a few months.

OT but you have installed the Huawei App Store?

The farm services near Gloucester are nice too. Similarly I seem to remember them picking up EV early too.

I get the impression that the big motorway service groups like moto and welcome break should watch their backs. Give it a few years and there will be no need for traditional services if hubs take off.

Same idiots that are not disabled that park in disabled bays then 😕

I guess I'm not driving EV yet, but my logic was that garden centres etc are likely to have a 1 hour stay, hence a 50kW DC would fill most cars in 1-2 hours, which would be plenty for a normal stay. You are of course correct an en route charger would do just as well, bar you spending some money whilst charging. If you consider it to be say 3+ hours, then yes 22kW is plenty, although what I really think you need is a car park where at least 50% of the bays have chargers. Perhaps a singe supply that can do 3 phase 22/11 with 1 car (or if you're lucky 2@16Amp 3Ph) or 3 cars each at 7kW. It's a difficult one in my mind, because if every bay has it and there's a small risk of not being able to graze at the next stop, then lots of 7kW is better. As things stand though there are not that many bays, so a small number of 50kW will help more people. I think I said above, I'd like to see a small number of fast on each floor for a very short boost at higher cost and then most/all bays have 7kW which are included in the parking charge/cheap as chips.

For a destination charge, 22kW isn't bad, although 50Kw-100kW DC would be much better as most cars can't actually charge at 22kW and most are much slower.

I like that anaology. Having driven a few of those cars shown against it, including the Maclaren, they're all very quick and the Maclaren eyewateringly so. It's a damn fast car and from the standard AWD handles well.

Living nearby, we avoid the M5 like the plague when it's holiday season, but on the off chance you have to that always seems packed. In some respects I agree with you, it's just that the distance isn't far between there and Exeter. - Taunton Dean to Exeter Services = 30 miles - Bridgwater to Exeter Services = 40 miles - Sedgemoor to Exeter Services = 50 miles - Bristol to Sedgemoor = 33 miles - Bristol to Bridgewater = 40 miles - Bristol to Taunton Dean = 55 miles It's actually quite a tough one to be honest, as bridgwater is the half way house, taunton dean is busy and sedgemoor is a good break point if you're coming down the M5 from the midlands, can get past the M4/M5 junction then fill up. At the moment the stuff I see around Cribbs is tesla, slow or a customer only type thing, although I might not be seeing them all. Of course the farm services on the M5 are always a favourite of mine if you do need to stop and sit for a bit.

The Gridserve competition or indeed gridserv themselves need to put something big in around somerset, so not everyone is going for a charge at exeter. Whilst taunton dean has space and north/south or sedgemore a little further north could make sense, another good option could be bridgwater services. Bridgwater is on a roundabout serving both directions and close enough to hinkley point to get a fairly direct supply of large volumes of eletricity without long runs.

Not Far as it has the same battery and motors as the AWD GTL/GTL-S with a bigger inverter on the rear motor and some body stiffening/suspension and similar handling/stopping improvements. Since the GTL has the same battery, 19" wheels and a 316 official range, then I imagine turning the wick up and going from 19-21" wheels will drop it to around 275 official. The GTL-S has 20" wheels and is more like 300 miles, so the wheels definately have an effect. The AWD cars are getting 220-250 in winter conditions. then I'd say this is in the 200 mile real world (Without using all the performance, all the time) Still a beast and still a respectable range vs a tank in a supercar, but... Of course if they get it released soon and there are some available, then a trade in from a standard AWD to a GT could be a lot of fun.

Be interesting if you had the battery on the car, a battery on the caravan and one/both of solar/wind on the roof as you say. That way the car can do the V2L, but then when sun is out/wind is blowing the caravan can recharge itself and if so desired the car. Should cover the daily driving around the campsite if nothing else and would probably be pretty cheap too.