Monkhai

Indeed and as somebody else said, I think sticking the ctek on the cars every 2-4 weeks has kept them alive and extended the life as otherwise they'd have died before the cold weather pushed them over the edge. It was holding 12.7V this morning (No load reading) and it started the car ok, but it still took a bit longer than an instant start and whilst it could still be ok, for less than £130 why take the chance. The battery is 6-7 years old and if it's still ok once swapped and charged/tested, then I can always repurpose it for a solar light for the shed etc FWIW I went for a Halfords battery (096 AGM) as it was in stock locally and as stated any issues and I can just take it back to store rather than having to post it back. That plus with postage delays due to COVID I couldn't guarantee it would be here before I need it fitted. The battery is definately a Yuassa (YB serial number matches their format, the warranty sticker is the same as you find on the branded batteries, the case is identical, as are the specs and weight - 20.5kg and not that you take it as gospel, but the shop manager also stated they were). I'm pretty certain the 096 AGM ones are YBX9000 series, so a bit of a bargain compared to most physical shops tbh. https://www.halfords.com/motoring/batteries/car-batteries/halfords--096agm-start%2Fstop-agm-12v-car-battery-5-year-guarantee-548638.html https://www.yuasa.co.uk/ybx9096.html Will fit it and recode it as soon as it stops raining so heavily

Just gone to check the state of charge and it’s on float /maintain charge state only 1.5 hours later 🙄🙄 Load test after it’s sat overnight I think, but pretty certain that’s way too fast so new battery time.

Got vcds and yes know to code it. Anyone know what Skoda charge for their easy life premium?

MXS 7 ctek 👍 I do agree getting on for 7 years isn’t bad and whilst it used to get a long daily drive COVID saw to that. Dont fancy getting to destination and not getting back until after a recover tow. Original battery is a skoda(varta) 096 AGM but only rated to 68/680 CCA vs 70/780 on the new one. If I can get the varta/Bosch in time I will. What are Tanya like on faulty batteries in the 5 year warranty? Do you have to post it back as if so that’s a big cost for a 20kg battery?

I’m 99% certain the Halfords is a Yuassa and a reasonable bit cheaper but not massively so. Looks identical, same specs and start count. If Tanya can get a varta/Bosch over in time I will go that way, if not Anyones experience would be good. ECP are having a laugh at 250 odd after a claimed 40% discount. Your thoughts were mine, but I was curious as stop start hasn’t stopped working, which I would have expected.

Two weeks since the car got a long journey and it really struggled with the cold start (10 seconds cranking). Second start it was ok and same for third. When I stuck the ctek on it stayed in bulk charging (2 of 4 LED) for quite a few hours and 6 hours later is up to 3 of 4 LED, so suffice to say it was drained by the starts/short journey. Its now 6.5-7 years old, so probably on it last legs, but do you agree as it seems to suffer with heavy loads or is it just a low state of charge? It’s been regularly on ctek every month tops, so not had a long period of nothing, but still. I believe it’s an 096AGM in there, so question I have is are the Halfords batteries (5 yr guarantee AGM) models any good. They used to be yuassa and very good. Halfords have them in stock and I get a good price. Other option is a carts/Bosch from Tanya. As I have a long journey to do in the next few days, I am not sure I fancy being a statistic by chancing it.

I usually do as you, although I will vary that up to a month either way based on what the general weather is like. This year they went on just before the end of november, because until then it was warm (above 10 degrees) and wet, so the all seasons that are currentlyon the summers were better. I have to say, cross climate plus are probably good enough most of the time, although they're definatly weaker on snow than full winters it's good enough as long as you drive sensibly. Ice on the other hand, not good, but then non-studded winters are not good, just less bad, so it's more a case of driving to the weather. If I didn't have the wheels/tyres already, with modern cars having huge wheels , which limits good (and sensibly priced) winter options, you do start to think all weather is probably fine unless you're regularly driving into areas where snow/ice are common.

Just go to the finance company and tell them they need to get involved and resolve it or take the car back as it's not acceptable/dangerous (depending on what the issue is). As so many functions are controlled by the touchscreen, it's certainly a problem so make sure you detail what doesn't work rather than "the radio" unless it really is just everything is fine but you can't pick up DAB. For skoda finance, go direct to skoda finance and don't let them or the dealer fob you off saying go to customer services. When you buy things on finance, the finance company and the dealer are equally liable if there are problems (Again check this before stating it, but Citizens advice etc should be able to help).

I assume the car isn't on finance (PCP/lease etc)?

In a German court case (and appeal) the court decided when using it the driver had the same responsibilities/liabilities as if using a mobile device. https://electrek.co/2020/08/04/tesla-wiper-controls-ruled-illegal-germany-crashed/ https://www.sbdautomotive.com/en/insight-touchscreen-distraction

Have you say in anID3/Golf mk8/Seat leon with the same system and seen if the bugs are there? I hate the system in all the cars I've tried it in, so I'll probably go out of group for the next car. If it's really that bad, then you have consumer rights, particularly within 6 months, so I'd look to use them. If it's on finance, then you have a few additional options with the finance company. TBH, if it doesn't work and affects the functionality of the car, then you might want to consider rejecting the car as not fit for purpose. I believe (but do check) that if within 6 months, the onus is upon them to prove the fault didn't exist at the time of sale, rather on you to prove it was.

Air return from turbo?

This is the difficult bit, as COVID has totally skewed the numbers. Would I drive more than 100 miles a day back to back, yes very regularly in the past, however now probably less, but when I do drive it tends to be a long drive then another long drive for a few days back to back. Clearly I'm going to need to think hard about how often this will happen and see what DC chargers are available locally, as £20 for a 10-80% after a long journey, then up to 100 overnight can also work. If it's only occasional it's a chaper option, if it's regular it gets very expensive very quick. Cost wide for the three phase connection and small additional charger cost, then you're looking at pay back in 3 years on just the extra power into the car in a 5 hour window, if you need it often enough. Thanks for the reminder on the solar excess too. We're now looking at the viabilities of the batteries of various sizes, to perhaps store some of the excess if it's not enough and then charge from the batteries. Another option vs 3 phase is to charge up a larger battery from solar during the day, top it up from cheap rate at night whilst charging the car, than adding that to the car if you need it outside of cheap rate, but before the sun comes up. It's amazing how complicate this all becomes when you start to (over) think about the options.

I think I’ve resolved a suitable charger purchased direct from an installer rather than tying myself to a companies product. Still on the fence on 1 vs 3 phase, partly on speed but also that you can put a lot more in during a discounted charging at 11/22kW. - 44-88kWh vs 28 in during a 4 hour @ 5p - 55-110kWh vs 33 in during a 5 hour @ 5.5p Question of course, is will I actually use more than 33 with any regularity. Yes then worth it, no then not. Does anyone use solar to charge up the cars as obviously if it’s viable, then money is best spent on more battery capacity. I imagine we wouldn’t get more than 5.5-6kWp of panels on the roof, so that’s a bit 50:50 too.

I’ve just got the enyaq left to drive the EV6 is lovely except for a few pieces of gash white trim/highlights on the dash. The standard stereo on the EV6 isn’t up to the standards of the standard in an octavia either. The fast charging however….

Having a dig a zappi seems a reasonably clever device, especially if coupled with other items from the range. Does anyone know which, if any, if the smart chargers can pause/lower the charge rate to keep the house below 100 amps total?

The connect to solar and active load management might be needed. Finally got a price for three phase, which on the face of it is very reasoanble. Next hurdle is oh no we don't do three phase smart meters currently, so you can't have a car tarrif Debating wether to just pay the capped rate and wait until three phase smart meters happen or just give up, stay single phaase and risk problems in a couple of years when the boiler is replaced with a heat pump.

I've started a thread on home charging options: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/499379-home-charger-options/

Speaking with the dealers it seems most have a deal with podpoint and BP Pulse for home charging points. Both offer 7kW 1Ph and 22kW 3Ph options. At present Podpoint is about £50 cheaper, but BP pulse offer free use of chargers and membership charging rates for 2 years from date of installation. (eg £50 gets you 2 years of cheaper charging rates, and maybe maybe some free slower chargers). Does anyone have any thoughts on which of these companies are best (or any other companies) and if there are any advantages of using the suppliers that the manufacturers have arrangements with or otherwise? General background of plans are below, so then it's a case of if any of the providers work better/worse or have issues with any of the below. Hoping to have a decision on 1/3Ph shortly (if I ever get a quote), so then it's just a case of working out who. I've been pricing up a solar array (probably without batteries at least initially) and we can get a maximum of a 5.5-6kWp array on an east/west split. Not getting a battery just yet as I'm guessing the car can soak up anything we don't use from the solar and the rest can go to hot water. Once we've got a year of real use, maybe add a battery of the appropriate size.

Does anyone know much about the BP Pulse charging or is this better off on a whole seperate thread?

The one that’s leading my search has a 7 year warranty on the battery, others have 5/10. I don’t know what vw group are offering. I don’t think it’s a problem for a lease/pcp and hand back. Besides, when fuel hits £2 a litre and ICE cars are banned from city centres you could claim their values will tank. Right now whichever way you go you run a risk.

I think the issue is it's not just the cost of the petrol/diesel, otherwise I might not bother either. You have the fuel, which is 30-50% more vs public charging and massively more vs home charging. You have the road tax, and a painful first year tax, plus another tax for anything over 40k. Then you have congestion charges, which don't always apply to EV. Then you have pollution taxes (ULEZ), which don't apply to EV Then you have some cities which ban diesels from the city centre all together. Yes EV charging away from home isn't simple... but neither is going into a lot of towns our way any more either.

Tbh… every company should provide a socket on every space even if only 50% can be used at full power at the same time. that solves the issue of charger hogging.

I genuinely hope not, because if they win this year, all the little tantrums, some alledgedly unsportsman like behaviour and a whole pile of excuses could be justified. I just think the behaviour is unbecoming a winning team (Any team).

Chill guys... Long and short it sounds like the ID3 at the dealer was a bad example as in something wasn't right with it. It makes little difference even then as the touchscreen to turn driver things off is just dangerous. If Gizmno can tell of a way to turn things off safely (single press ideally) whilst driving, such as the mental lane assist then that might change my opinions of course