Monkhai

I mean hard tap water will reduce the life of the coolant and may well increase deposits, but I doubt it would kill 3 belts in 5 years (Assuming belt is done at 4-5 years). I do agree VW group (any many other car manufacturers) seem to have some quality issues, where it apears to have been design, then cost reduced and then problem.... I would like to point out that VW have some issues in some areas, but every other car manufacturer I know of has similar issues, albeit usually in other areas.

Did I miss the 77 coming to the UK as if it did, that makes it very interesting again. I'm about to compare EV6 and Enyaq for a final time, but a 77 born, would throw that all into question. @john999boy have you driven the ID3 and the born? I ask as the ID3 was horrible due to floppy suspension and poor control of the throttle that made it like a switch. If the born fixes these two then things get a bit more interesting if the lease or finance prices are right.

I think you need 1.4kW to use the Zappi eco+ mode. The Eco mode I think it uses the solar and tops the grid up to meet mimum Then fast is just use it from wherever as long as it's fast

Looking at both of these for a final time tomorrow, before joining the 52 week lead time group.... After AWD and comparing GT Line AWD to an 80x (Sportline looks to be the only trim). The weather gets wet and the roads twisty around us a lot, so that much torque/power on the back only just doesn't feel right. At the moment I think the EV6 has it, by virtue of lower price on lease, seemingly less annoying controls and better range/charging. Anyone own/spent a reasonable amount of time that can give me an idea for what to look for that you might not normally notice in a test drive. Also anyone with an RWD EV... how are they in the ice/snow/heavy rain? If it fairly easy to put the back end out if you're not paying attention? I'm thinking the regen braking could make it a bit interesting in poor conditions too.

I think this thread is so far back from the dead, perhaps a new/different thread might be more useful 👍

Oddly with the VAT change I don’t think a car charger counts as energy saving equipment, but eddi/harvi/hub do… Now debating doing them separately to save the VAT…

They’d probably nick the conduit 😂😂

Wondering if anyone knows how to protect DC cables running behind dab walling between a solar inverter and the panels. Electrical/mechanical protection is what I’m asking about really.

Sorry I should have clarified, if we can't go from behind, then I'll be looking at the shortest visible run possible. The question I was asking was more do you think the SWA or the cable ina conduit is less attractive to them. Ta

Yes the Anderson does, but at least for now, we were thinking of doing the Zappi route. We are getting: - approx 6kWp - approx 10 kWh of battery - Eddi Solar diverter - Probably a Zappi as it can just work with the Eddi. The Zappi also seems to be better at doing solar only charging and quicker at fixing issues/working with manufacturers to identify them. Sadly we don't have a garage for the charger, so it will be by the front door/bin store etc As you say the Anderson is very discrete and the Zappi isn't fancy, but could probably be covered up with a suitable "post box" or similar. Yes I noticed many are super flashy, which seems totally pointless and as you say an advertisment to anyone wanting to "borrow" the cable on a permanent basis. When you say cut it and slide it out of the lock, I assume you mean regardless of tethered or untethered, live or off, they'd just use some insulated wirecutters. The socket locks would not really change much as they'll just leave you with a potentially live socket and as little copper as they can leave behind. You mean the SWA? I was debating if this should be from behind, in trunking or something else. If we can't go from behind (Which is TBC), would you suggest a short run of SWA or normal (6mm??) T+E in trunking?

The thing is with the LWB vans, there is loads of space for a good sized battery pack and even with the SWB I'm kind of surprised they couldn't fit say an 75-100kWh usable in there. I do think for things like lorries and longer distance vans rather than just round town last mile services you're going to have to look at hydrogen powered FCEV or something other than carrying around a couple of tonnes of battery. I suppose they could put a massive battery in the trailer that is charged whilst it's waiting and a cab with a smaller battery just picks up and drops off... but still you're towing tonnes of battery.

So basically, if they decide they are going to nick the cable, then they'll probably write off the charger either way 😕 The value of the copper in them alone suggests you're going to get at least £10-20 at a "specialist" scrap dealer and I have a feeling that things will take off shortly. I assume they don't do cables with suitable padlock points or suitably neat charger cover boxes? Basically it's a case of you're damned if you do or don't and it's really convienience of tethered vs adapatability/neatness of an untethered without the cable in use. Anything else I'm missing?

Thanks 👍 Is the lock feature on all cars or just Tesla? Also do you know if the chargers can lock or is that now likely just to get more damage if targeted. Do you have a zappi or another untethered?

I think we will get a zappi charger as the Anderson hardware is good but the app was last updated 8 months ago 😕 The zappi also ties in well with the solar diverter and solar. Big question then is tethered or untethered? One thing I hear about but don’t know about is regards cable theft. Untethered is obviously harder to use and easier to steal in use. Tethered however is always there so a bigger window to nick it and I imagine thieves would probably damage the charger case nicking it or at least require an electrician to replace it. It’s it an issue in reality? Any other thoughts in favour of either appreciated 👍

I don’t really understand why electric cars don’t have an overdrive gear such that whilst cruising at say 55mph one or more motors is on a higher final drive to improve motorway efficiency.

Some cheap lease deals but it is very much a marmite look… I seem to remember the range was ok but not great for the battery size.

ColinD already commented on the thread, so I will just point out that we won’t be carrying on an argument past that point. Just accept people have different views and speak to others as you would like to be spoken to yourself 👍

A bug in the driver assistance features would be considered by most potential buyers as pretty dangerous. I can understand why people might want to complain about it bearing in mind the poster is saying that it is a known bug without a fix. I know my emergency brake system on the mk3 had a few moments where it screams an alarm and brakes for no obvious reason, the high beam assist is rubbish too and that is left off. Doesn't mean it's a rubbish car, but critisism where it's due is fair. Just because a car is great in some ways doesn't mean it's without flaws, so I'm sure we can all get along and agree it's great in some ways and has problems in others.👍

There are two hydraulic cylinders on the clutch system. One is located at the clutch pedal end and the other is inside the gearbox. Neither are changed as part of a standard clutch replacement, but if either fails you get poor clutch performance and odd bite points. I would suggest in this order 1) get the cutch bled (It can be and trapped air causes problems) 2) change the clutch hydraulic cylinder behind the clutch pedal (This is cheaper to get to) 3) if this doesn't work, then it's a gearbox off time for a check of everything in the clutch is in to make sure it's in good condition and to replace the slave cylinder whilst it's off. There is no point not changing the slave cylinder unless it's 100% known good due to labour costs. TBH if you're in there, you might even want to do another clutch kit as the cost of the labour will be as much or more than the cost of the clutch and clutch slave cylinder. Further suggestion to add to point 3, would be have you had the DMF checked, as whilst it doesn't cause clutch issues directly, it can cause some other issues which can cause odd behaviour with clutch parts. You say you've changed the cylinders, but if you bleed it and then air gets in, either you have a faulty cylinder, an air leak in a hydraulic line or you've just not bled all the air out. New cylinders can be faulty as I've been there and had the t-shirt luckily under warranty.

This is a duplicate of another post which is already being discussed on the below thread, so I'm locking this to keep things simple. Please post replied in the below thread:

I think both sides of the argument have some validity. Perhaps an addition to the first post by the OP stating that you should backup the configs before doing anything, you should understand what the changes do before making them and that they are carried out at your own risk? Then I think we can say it's up to people if they want to mess around with their cars.

A polite reminder that people remember: 1) People have feelings and please post thinking how you would feel in receipt of a similar post. 2) Threads are supposed to be about a subject and obviously multiple subjects should have multiple threads. When things diverge, it's probably better to have a new thread rather than a very large single thread, as it makes it easier to find things. 3) It's not anyone's thread, it's a thread on the forum.

That should be a fine of 10% of the value of the vehicle when it was new. 10% for first offence, 20% second and so on. 11th is the value of the vehicle when new, and the vehicle is towed 12th is the value of the vehicle when new and the vehicle is towed and sold. That should make the rounds on your local social media, as with that personalised reg plate on a fairly old RR sport, it'll get around to people who know them fairly quickly I'd imagine.

They sell a harvi which allows wireless access to the CT clamp output and a hub which allows internet connectivity. I was going to buy the harvi and hub to monitor things, however found out this hub is just a wireless gateway to the net which doesn’t function without a zappi or eddi. I called to ask why it had gone from the website to be told it was now integrated into the zappi and eddi.

Just a useful update for anyone looking at Zappi or Eddi, the hub is now (for new deliveries) included in both the Eddi and Zappi so no longer required.