Monkhai

The plastic panel provides access to the fuse panel on RHD cars. The seal look’s correctly placed to me, as does the panel. I’ve moved your post to the Octavia section, so you’ll hopefully get more replies now too.

Fair enough, when I used the two and others locally sway were cheaper and far more reliable. I found other local dealers charged much more and missed things. i don’t deal with either now, but sitting in the garden/lounge of the pub opposite for lunch was far better than the usual waiting area.

Having used both of those mentioned (albeit a long time ago) I had plenty of issues with one and almost none with the other. Do they have evidence this fault was long running? Also if one dealer is not EV approved can they even pick it up? I assume they can, but you know what they say about assumption. Not saying the fault wasn’t missed just that people perhaps need to take a step back before jumping on a dealer.

Locked as there is the same thread in the mk3 section.

I’d be looking at the condensation, removing the light and drying it, checking any breather holes are clear and seals are ok and putting it back to test myself.

Are you sure it’s diesel and if it is that it isn’t coming from the fuel filter above?

No point of sale is in the UK, so UK laws will apply. Including distance selling and other uk laws. There is no such thing as EU law, a requirement is agreed, the each member state sets its own interpretation of the requirement. If it’s the law of Lux it would need to state it in the contract and it still couldn’t apply in certain areas as you can’t bypass consumer protections. Many dealers are going to brands from Korea and China who don’t do this agency thing, so I would suggest these brands are writing their own death warrants.

A dealer software update reduced this for me. When I finally replaced the battery with a new AGM it never came back again.

Of course then your contract is with VW so contract law will apply. End customers can go after VW not the dealer. RRP = Go elsewhere for cheaper and often better cars. If they try this on EVs, they’re going to get slaughtered by the Chinese manufacturers.

That particular one was I believe a Tesla, but VW group have the same version of their touchscreen in ICE and EV, so it’s not just an EV problem. It’s a bean counter problem.

It is in Germany, a driver was found guilty, appealed they were adjusting wiper speed, lost and still guilty. The diesels in question were mk2 and mk3 octy with additional soundproofing added in boot and rear seat areas. The NVH isn’t bad, but all I am saying is I would want to take a second break, but don’t feel the need in the EV. Most weeks I do 250 mile round trips. The infrastructure does need to improve, but pick the right car and you’re fine. 600 miles at home rates is less than £13. 600 miles 50% at home rest at full is £60 600 miles at 11MPL (50mpg) @1.50 is £81 600 miles at 14MPL (63mpg) @1.50 is £65 Swings and roundabouts there too, but I will say I have heating and radio on and don’t try to save energy and more than I would in a diesel.

The car I chose has 800V battery so can charge at 230kW+ on the right DC chargers. 5-80% is 18 minutes, which is 200-275 miles. In the diesel I didn’t fill up with fuel, but I would take a loo break/food break of 20 minutes. Hence much of a muchness. What I will say is that the NVH from an ICE car meant I would typically want to take a second quick stop to stretch out which meant the journey might be longer.

One month into ownership I did a 300 mile each way trip so a total of 600 miles. Started full, 1 stop for 20 minutes to get to 80+%, use a loo, grab a coffee and a panini each way. Was lucky enough to find a destination charger and add 20% there, but it wasn’t needed. I used to do that same trip regularly in a diesel and actually the EV might have been a little quicker as I planned a stop rather than when I fancied. it’s much of a muchness IMHO

Yep, we avoided the thing like the plague after seeing the I initial images at a dealer. i think sales numbers will tank

I believe EuroNCAP are mandating physical buttons for certain features if you want a 5 star rating…. I’m all for hiding config option etc away, but disabling auto steering/lane following, wiper speed, cabin temperatures etc should not need someone to take their eyes off the road.

Hmm time for another battery;)

Fundamentally, lay the lot use only what you need. You’re doing it to future proof. Just laying 10mm Doncaster Inc cat 5 covers most of what you might want and adding and Ethernet everything. You may only is L1 + N + E to a commando socket, but you’re talking about charging a future vehicle. At that time who knows what the regs in France might be. My advice stands lay it once and it’s done. The charger I loosely talk about it the EV charge point and the AC DC inverter to converts to charge the battery is in the car. If you want absolute bare minimum, the armoured 6/10mm (subject to cable rules and french regs) Twin&Earth to a 32A commando socket with an interlock switch. As you would find at a caravan site for hook up, albeit you would want 32A not 16A.

Surely you’d use armoured cable and RCBO or if the device has an RCD built in an MCB or better still an RCBO with suitable delay? Edit: To be fair to the guy, I do seem to remember documentation saying something along the lines of built in so you should use an MCB some time back.

On new build estates many are 3Ph or have the three phases run right up to a break out only a few meter from the properties. I think there might be a plan to move properties to 3Ph 60A or 80A

Your assumption are correct. Addressing your questions, I suggest running that 3 x L cable and a cat6 because it covers all eventualities and if I live was damaged on a single phase install you have a spare. Lifting the floor is the expensive and messy but vs an extra few £/€ per M. (You could even connect a house battery or a solar inverter on the 2 spares with correct markings.) So 3 phase cable is more about never needing to dig it up again. CT - At lease one is required by many chargers so they can monitor the pull from the grid. Many won’t charge without this as it’s a safety feature. If you were to add a battery, solar or similar you’d need a clamp to measure those. Not saying you will, but we’re back to cost of cable vs work. Ethernet cable… it’s cheap and many chargers take software updates or you can set/monitor them to only charge In discount periods. WiFi is often unreliable in remote locations, so why chance it. Essentially if you run 3L+B+E with comms and an additional cat6 cable, no currently possible proposal would require you to dig it up and add to or replace it. I’m more a do it once, don’t have the cost/mess of redoing it mindset.

Please continue in the above thread.

Which Model/year of vRS? Some yes if the alignment is out, others no.

It’s all the extra A’s in Jaaaaaaag that add the width. @J.R. EV stuff is all over the place, but most chargers need 32A and some communication cables and CT clamps. https://www.toolstation.com/doncaster-cables-ev-ultra-ev-charger-cable/p44108 This stuff has 5 power cables (3xL+N+E) and a cat5 cable and comes in armoured too. That one is 10mm but for shorter runs it comes in 6mm and longer runs in 16mm. They also do a single phase one. For the small cost I would run the correct size of the 3PH to wherever you might want an EV charger and from a rotary isolator at the DP end into an empty box at the other. The right size would then allow you to connect 1 or 3 Ph @32A, use 2 pairs for 100Mbit eth and connect 2CT clamps to monitor grid and solar. If you can stick a stand alone cat6 length in there too that way all comms and up to 4 CT could be covered. Obviously you need to comply with all local electrical regs etc, but if I was doing work and wanted to be ready that’s what I’d get put in. Once in, don’t forget you can still run a suitable short run from the junction to the charger if it turns out to be on the wrong side, but a 5M type 2 cable will solve most issues.

I’m waiting for an estate … with 800v batteries.

“brilliantly take the thread off topic and heading for a ban” you mean? 😋 let’s not turn this into another thread with too many problems