skomaz

That sounds like the Canbus is cutting power to the bulbs following it detecting a 'fault' - as indicated by the yellow warning on the dash. I'd check the bulbs and wattage are correct and also the connectors as a starting point. Also have you made any changes to the dipped beams? I only ask as I had a 50w HID kit fitted in the dipped beam at one time and it would throw a fault code if the main beams were used, even though all lights continued to function. As soon as the 50w kit was swapped out for a 35w kit the issue went away.

Been looking at these today for a Client wanting some swept path work carrying out on the assumption he has these as his fleet vehicles... blimey they are expensive Standard Sprinter Progressive's start at £31k so the eSprinter is double!

Those with green tag pates round us seem to be the one trying to keep up with next door... you know the sort all designer labels and 'must-have's. I find it rather ironic / interesting that they'll proclaim their green credentials and yet still overpay a fortune for stuff they don't need and only use once or twice that has been hypocritically shipped half way round the world... But each to their own, I'm sure there are some of them that are truly green ... Oh and the article lol-lol quoted and linked to was, I believe, just related to vehicles provided by Zenith and not for all UK leased vehciles...

We have one of those in our Kodiaq... Very worthwhile.

The limitation will be to do with the location of the battery for the hybrid system - it's under the passenger seat so the mats for that side will need to be different to suit.

Our Octavia 4x4 that we've just traded in was a 2007 model with that climatronic system and it was still on its original compressor and working fine after a single top up a number of years ago. I'd suggest the OP press the 'auto' button and actually set a low temperature to double check first as that picture is showing 'off at the moment... 'Econ' doesn't use the ac compressor to cool the air coming in... It merely uses the outside air at whatever temperature to try and meet the internal target temperature. If its hot outside you get hot air inside. The other thing I'd try is resetting the control flaps... So press and hold the econ button and then press the bottom left airflow direction button at the same time (or it might be the bottom right I can never remember). The system will then reset all the flaps.

In theory you shouldn't need the AA app in Android 11 as it's built in to the OS. But if it's Android Go it won't work full stop. We discovered the latter recently and ended up getting a new phone for my wife as a result Otherwise try checking the data transfer settings to see if they are allowing data transfer and aren't set to charge only

Lots of members move in and out of Skoda's but remember Briskoda is about more than just Skoda's...

No... It will need to be removed and gutted of its internals and then mapped out.

It will fail if it is not present or has been noticeably tampered with but it is a visual check only at present so if a dpf cannister is present and is not visibly cut and welded, for example, it should pass. There are examples on here of this being the case very recently with older vrs and 4x4s or Scouts

An 08 vrs should be EU4 so if its done properly it should pass an MOT OK...

Yes unless it has a dpf delete

As someone who deals with accident data on a regular basis I'd love to see the evidence for what safety improvements speed limiters will achieve. My gut feeling is that it will be based on a 'best case' for accident savings and severity split and some dubious maths... A bit like the air pollution causes x deaths per year one that was shown to be mathematically flawed. Might mean I'll be keeping our current cars even longer now though

Our old Octavia did that a few times... It was a sticking climatronic flap but a flap reset sorted it. Not sure how you do that on a superb though...

We had a 1.9TDi in a Fabia Estate and they are generally pretty bullet-proof. We moved it on at 130k miles but it went on to do nearly 200k with other owners which gives you an idea. The cambelt change interval was amended and I 'think' it was changed to 60k and 4 years but I'm sure others will confirm. Either way ours went to 80k without issue. Having said that the only caveat might be age - at 2008 without a change that belt will be 13 years old so I'd definitely factor in a change, with the water pump as well, ASAP just to be on the safe side.

Check where the gas struts fit the hatch. The studs can occasionally work loose and watervget in. A bit of silicon and tightening them up can usually sort it.

Don't think so - they seem to be backing BEV's with only Mercedes, Honda, Hyundai and Toyota actively looking at Hydrogen fuel cells (Toyota have just launched the new Mirai)

That's not a sumpguard, it's an undertray. A sumpguard would be a much more substantial steel plate / casting.

I'm getting mid to late 30's (so 35 - 38mpg ish) from a 1.4 tsi 4x4, so I'd expect a 1.5 to be similar if not more if its FWD.

I think on an L&K you simply need to set 'travel mode' via the infotainment

Noted and I'll keep a look out in SW Sheffield...

Afternoon all, Just done quick scan of the Kodiaq with Carista before my subscription ran out and it flagged the following codes. None are anything to be too concerned about as far as I can tell as everything seems to be functioning fine but figured I’d ask on here just in case as there seems to be limited info on the web re some of them. The first are from the Central Electrics and the second from the Infotainment. I'm wondering if they may have popped up as I've done a few tweaks using Carista (eg alarm chirp, fogs for CH/LH, cornering fogs / rear lights on when boot open etc. and have updated the Bolero software. Cheers

I third the built chamber auto-qd. Its good stuff and easy to use diluted but still gives a good finish. In fact all ofnthier stuff is spot on really.

Does that have a Merv engine like some of the other older Chryslers? My brother in law has an old 2.2 diesel PT Cruiser that does and it seems pretty bomb proof

That reminds me - I've the same job to do on my MX5 as the leather gaitor is cracking and I probably needs to replace the rubber shift boots below it again as well (last done in the early 00's)...