skomaz

I'd suggest that's normal 'wear and tear'... it's nothing like the Dunlop SP01 issue I had a few years back where cracking was within the circumferential grooves and deep enough for the carcass to start showing.

I asked about the Haldex service history on our 'new to us' Kodiaq... It's just over 3 years old and the service record showed an oil change earlier this year at just under 17,000 miles. I've asked the dealer that did and supplied the car whether the filter was cleaned at the same time given it can be a known issue (even though not acknowledged by VAG) and guess what... no reply! A diagnostic check using a VAG specific hand held reader shows no codes but I'm still thinking it needs to go to a good independent specialist to be done again properly...

I have a colleague in a similar position and he looked at various thigs, including seven seat SUV's like a Kodiaq, but eventually settled on a Touran. Other than that we borrowed a Peugeot 807 a few years back and found it was pretty good...

I used cross climates on our 'tweaked' 4x4 Estate TDI for a number of years, albeit in a slightly smaller size (205/55 R16 94V in both standard and XL ratings). I found they were excellent and never had a problem with them - they certainly weren't unpredictable (they were anything but in my experience) and were very grippy indeed. Tyre pressures did need to be a couple of psi higher than recommended though.

If its Bristol Street Chesterfield that's where we got our Kodiaq from and the sales guys were OK to deal with. We pushed hard and they moved to get us a deal. However we didn't take their extended warranty or wheel and tyre package, nor the service package as I've never yet scuffed an alloy, only ever had one puncture in over 30 years of driving and the service package didn't seem that competitive compared to a good Indy we've used before given the car was three years old. The extras are where they make their money which is why they push them. So overall sales were good IMHO. However, it did go back to them for a tailgate leak and the service manager tried to bull**** me it was normal and gave me some crap about the way the car drains which was a load of tosh. I've since fixed it myself but my impression is they didn't really want to know and a subsequent enquiry about whether they cleaned the haldex filter when they changed the oil has gone unanswered, so I get the impression the service dept don't really like dealing with people who have long standing skoda experience and know what they are talking about... As I said though we had no complaints re the sales guy we dealt with. Edit: Forgot to say... The car came very well prepared... Clean, polished with a couple of PDRs sorted, serviced and with four new tyres fitted and the sales guy took us through setting the infotainment up and has since provided a copy of the service record and been generally helpful.

"need to change it"...??? Why?... If you love it keep it.

And beurocratic / government decision making processes...

Could also be a bearing, track rod end or suspension bushes on the way out as well...

My understanding is that R1234yf isn't as good a refrigerant as R134a and is more prone to leaks and hence more is needed and more fuel is used to drive the system as well.??

Our Kodiaq came with Falken Azenis FK510, the SUV version obviously, and whilst I was dubious at first I have to admit to being impressed with them. They grip well, are quiet for a big tyre and seem to be getting good reviews.

I actually think those louvres look OK and suit the lines of the bonnet...

Nice - another one joins the Briskoda MX5 / Skoda sub-owners club! Mines the Mk1 below:

i had an engine steam cleaned a few years back - although I'd call it more of a hot pressure wash really - it didn't cause any long term issues but in the short term caused rough running and needed a fair few connections 'drying out' to resolve. I'm surprised they can't just trace the leak back up the block etc. On my old 4x4 any oil in the engine bay only came from two places - the first was a blown turbo to intercooler hose at the back of the engine and the second was from the cam cover gasket at the front after a cambelt change. The fuel pressure rail had to be moved to gain access and is held in place using the same fasteners as the cam cover, which hadn't been properly tightened afterwards (took me a while to find that one!)

Must be - they're probably the worst I've dealt with in 30 years of buying cars! Maybe they only respond when they know they have suitable stock available... I've phoned, dropped in and spoken directly to sales but no follow ups from them... although I have always been pretty specific about what I've been looking for. Hey ho never mind.

For the seatbelt warning just unplug the buckle wiring connector under the seat (a tiny two pin one with blue wires IIRC) and it stops.

Hope you enjoy it. I do find it strange how Rainworth Sheffield manage to sell cars though... I contacted them earlier this year about Kodiaqs and spoke to sales about what i was looking for but they never got back to me. They were the same years ago when I was looking for an Octavia, even though I knew they had exactly what I was looking for as one of the staff cars. I bought elsewhere on both occasions but, with the Octavia, when I took the one I'd bought elsewhere in a couple of weeks after picking it up for something to be checked under warranty they had the staff car up for sale. And many years prior to that I was trying to buy a new Fabia and the sales guy refused to give me a total cash price to change until I'd signed an order! Needless to say I walked away and bought elsewhere Service and parts seem to be OK but the sales team are rubbish in my opinion.

I investigated this briefly as I was concerned over only having on reverse light on our SE. It seems however that there are no LEDs in most of the nearside inner light - its effectively just the housing and decorative. A new inner light unit is about £100 so with that and the messing about to get the wiring in place I'll live with it for the time being... After all I don't see the rear lights from inside the car.

Hi George. We've tried the Pashley style ones previously on the Monsal Trail and she's found them too unstable, top heavy and easy to fall off, especially with a normal saddle. The advantage with the recumbents is they have a much lower centre of gravity so are inherently more stable and more difficult to overturn. Also, given they have a proper 'chair' type seat she can have a harness to hold her onto the seat and stop her and the bike parting company. It was a good suggestion though all the same. In terms of the side by side bottom picture we've also considered those and the occpational therapist has suggested trying them but figured a trike would give her a bit more feeling of independence, although one of us will always need to be cycling alongside just in case...

Looks to be a bracket for the boot trim area that allows the car to be fitted with the bag hooks that run on rails (see link below). luggage compartment trim SKODA KAROQ (ilcats.ru) If you have them it looks like they may not have been fitted properly...

Bear in mind that once on place the GRP bathtub will be surrounded BT concrete pokered into place and, should support the GRP ledge sufficiently. https://www.mech-mate.co.uk/installation

Thanks Pawel ... Just seems a strange thing to say on the update website if nav is not supported. Anyhow all now sorted with an update and a new phone so we have nav via smartlink and Android auto.👍

If it is EU4 it'll still pass an MOT no problem with a DPF delete and map (or should do! provided both have been done properly). Can you find out who did the work, when and what Stage the map was? If it was a Stage 1 from Shark in Mansfield before they stopped trading and Ben moved to RacingLine then it should be absolutely fine . The DPF is up at the back of the engine and covered by the metal sump guard / transfer case so is very difficult to see meaning any cut in the DPF is pretty much invisible. The only tell-tale would therefore be a dirty tailpipe and possibly some slight smoking but that will still pass an EU4 MOT.

Great! the outlet pipe is a rubber bend at the back of the engine against the bulkhead that runs from the turbo to a hardpipe to the intercooler: They have a tendency to develop a split on the outside of the bend (the none-visible side - probably due to heat / pressure) causing a loss of boost, a 'wooshing' noise that seems to be coming from the radio area and, eventually a loss of power and limp mode. Ours went every seven years so I replaced it twice (the last time just before Christmas 2020). It can be done DIY from the top after removing the air filter box and intake pipes but is a bit of a pain to get to. Oh and other things to check for thinking about it... windscreen and tailgate leaks around the glass. At that age the sealing may well have deteriorated slightly and need the screens resealing - no need to remove just seal over the top of the original in the gap between the glass and bodywork. Any white edges aren't an issue as it'll just be the screens starting to delaminate slightly which happens fairly quickly from new and isn't really an issue.

'Chipping' using an add-on 'box' may be making a bit of a come-back as it bypasses the newer ECU security and can generally be removed without trace.

It will definitely have a DPF unless it's been removed. All 2.0 PD BMM 4x4's, Scouts and Vrs did. Also the code for a DPF should be 7GG (not 0GG as above) - it'll be on a sticker to the rear of the footwell or in the 3 letter codes in the front of the service book. Things to look out for at that age - worn propshaft doughnuts giving vibration at around 2300rpm in higher gears, worn wheel bearings, worn engine / gearbox mounts and burst turbo outlet pipes in my experience. Plus the usual diamond cut alloy issues. Other than that they are a great solid car (we've only just traded in our 07 2.0 PD 4x4)