skomaz

We've got business grey and when looking to buy a few weeks back found it appeared much better and less scratched than the other darker colours on the forecourts. SWMBO liked petrol blue but having struggled to find the spec we wanted ended up with the grey and in hindsight we're pleased with it.

And I ca successfully report that yes Carista works very well... enabled a variety of things so the Kodiaq is now a bit more like what I want...

Nice to see he supports the 'correct' Sheffield-based football team though!... and hope he's not too put out by this year's (poor) performance. My family is split between the two teams (and between England and Northern Ireland supporters) so it's always a source of amusement...

It certainly caused confusion when I bought my father in laws civic off him, brought it to the mainland and tried to MOT it... It was on a mainland plate but had been 'exported' and registered in NI so there were no DVLA records for it... the garage thought it was stolen...

DVLA don't even hold data for NI cars so I'd say yes...

It's a real shame if it's emergency services only - the Scout and 4x4 versions of the previous versions were very sought after and popular, even if total sales weren't huge...

Oh I get that... I just don't understand why you might need (or want) the coding you were talking about... although maybe that's just me (I suppose it's like me wanting an alarm 'beep' coding)

I certainly wouldn't be going near a new Octavia if I were replacing at the moment (just got a S/H Kodiaq and specifically avoided the Octy) as there are too many issues across the VW group with the tech (apart from the fact that the front of the new Octy is rather fugly)

That's really bad and I'd suggest is bound to leak at some point. Typical of Halfords half-arsed approach to fitting stuff though... If they've got it that far they'd have been better off leaving it 'inside' the car and popping it out from behind the headlining and up to the rear screen rather than the half in half out approach they've taken that comes out of the gaitor and then needs to squash between the hatch seal and hatch to get to the camera. I'd take it back to them and get them to do it properly (although beware of them breaking trim...

is this issue to do with the old issue of VW having reversed the permanent and switched live feeds to the radio so it doesn't match ISO wiring (I recall these need to be switched over if fitting an aftermarket headunit).

For info just checked this on our 1.4 TSI Kodiaq - no 'Mit Silikat' on the tank and no sign of a bag inside, even when shining a torch through the tank (tricky as it does seem to be double walled to avoid 'swirl' within the tank). Coolant nice and clear though...

Not sure if I'd go for any of those TBH - apart from maybe the last two which are potentially useful the others seem strange things to try and enable?

Just wondering if anyone else has experienced a tailgate leak? It looks to be either from the rear tailgate hatch not sealing properly, the inner rear light units on the tailgate not being properly sealed, or maybe the gas strut mounting points. Basically water is pooling on top of the tailgate seal near the boot latch and from closer inspection appears to be getting in behind the internal trim whilst the tailgate is shut. It then drips out onto the top of the tailgate seal, where it will either drip back into the wheel well or, if the tailgate is opened, can be drained outside the car. Opening the tailgate also seems to lead to any water still trapped behind the trim running back up the tailgate and out of the trim at the top of the rear window. Any thoughts before I / the dealer attack it?

You jest but that's exactly the direction some manufacturers are moving in with their 'mobility as a service' subscription approach, as opposed to 'ownership' approach... Volvo Cars Launches M Mobility brand | Volvo Car Group Mobilize, a Groupe Renault brand - Renault Group AMI, 100% electric mobility solution designed for everybody | Citroën UK (citroen.co.uk)

Old thread but checked this on our new to us SE last night and sure enough one reverse light on the wrong side... It's pretty bright but still... Very cheapskate in trying to differentiate between models. Checking online it looks like wiring plugs may be present so come darker weather I may be hitting eBay for a replacement LHS tailgate light!

What does the red light look like?

If the vibration is at a constant speed regardless of gear, engine speed or 2/4 cylinder mode its got to be something that rotates with the wheels at that speed, so tyre / wheel / brakes / driveshaft / CV joints. It can't be gearbox, clutch or engine related. Have you checked all tyres for any bulges or damage? Have you hit any big potholes that could have damaged them or a wheel? Also what make are the tyres as I have heard of certain makes having balance problems as they wear.

What's actually wrong with it? Can you give a better description or some pictures as that might help others help you...

I'd be amazed if that's OE... Especially if it was wrapped in with what looks to be the washer pipe as I'd have expected the two to be kept separate. To me it looks like a repair.

No issue like that with our Kodiaq but it's on 18" at 2.4 bar. Recommended pressure is 2.3 as stated earlier. Eco pressure is 2.7 bar all round IIRC and fully loaded is 2.6 front and 3.0 rear.

When it does it are you close to a slowing car in front or has there been a parked car you are approaching or something coming the other way close to the central white line. If so it's the autonomous braking system kicking in and normal.

I read the last point there as 'if this symbol does not flash when the trailer board is hitched then one of the trailer turn signals is defective'. ie it would normally flash if bulbs are working but doesn't flash if they are not.

Is there a definitive list of models, years and engines affected yet as that would be very useful for people to check

Hmmm... Strange! The chassis no should be visible in a 'window' in the black surround of the bottom right of the windscreen. That might get you the code but only if it is the original radio. I'd be trying to get the glovebox open to see what's in there...

I had this issue on our Octavia and found hard rubber blind wiring grommets work really well. Just slit them with a knife and push them on and they grip what's left of the rusted pin. https://www.toolstation.com/rubber-grommet/p79733