Zib

Thanks Graham, they're leather. They are latched properly. We had the same admittedly minor problem in our previous Yeti (also leather), but I do notice squeaks and rattles more than most. Any suggestions what lube to use, please? I'm reluctant to go slap-dash with any old grease, especially since the area is carpeted and it's not much fun getting grease out of carpet.

Has anyone a good solution to reducing the squeaking of the varioflex seating in their Yeti, please?

Not so much heavy car as light engine, 2WD, and when pointing up-hill, there is weight transfer to the rear axle further decreasing traction at the front wheels. In our 1.2 TSI DSG Yeti, it was very easy to spin the wheels. In our 170 TDI DSG Yeti, almost never. Drive to 4 wheels plus traction control does the business.

Most likely reason is that the car had it's engine running for a while during part of the service, not going anywhere, and/or it got an Italian tune-up. This reduces your recent average fuel consumption quite considerably, thus reducing your computed range. However, unless they got through a huge amount of fuel, providing you drive as normal, you should get nearly the same range out of the whole tank, and the computed range will go up. Many times I drive a 20 mile trip where the destination is 300 feet nearer sea level, and despite driving 20 miles, the range has gone up by 20 miles on arrival.

This is quite normal. Some drivers never get used to it, but most develop the skill to anticipate when they are going, and just put their foot down a bit earlier. You can speed it up slightly by two-foot driving.

If your commute has lots of roundabouts, your consumption will suffer since the Yeti is a heavy car to accelerate. You can compensate to a degree by coasting to a halt as much as is reasonable, rather than losing all that energy in braking. Have you reset 'average fuel consumption 2' since you had the car? If you do so, you will see what fuel consumption you are getting, as opposed to any previous owner.

I'd check quite carefully the following because they can be expensive/troublesome to fix or excluded from warranty: DSG - apart from a slight jerk on initial pull away, gear changes should be virtually undetectable unless under harsh acceleration Sunroof - check that this all operates smoothly. As noted above, these have been troublesome with drainage issues. Headlights - the L&K has bi-xenon - make sure they operate and do their start-up swivel-eyed dance. In Car Entertainment - check all this works properly Climate control - check the air conditioning blows chilled air Apart from that, just the normal things to look for. Also, make sure the rear seats tip and come out easily (and that you are happy lifting them - they're heavy).

I suspect that some of the good consumption figures you are seeing here are from gentle drivers (and no offence intended, we're gentle drivers too, most of the time). Best to look at the Real MPG figures honestjohn.co.uk or equivalent. The Yeti is a fantastic vehicle for compactness, flexibility, and it's good to drive, but great fuel consumption is not its strong point.

If you have a Bolero (the version without a CD player) then it is almost certainly just a setting on the head unit. We get the issue you describe quite often after we have had two phones connected via Bluetooth at the same time, one for the phone, one for streaming. From memory, what you need to do is connect the phone via Bluetooth, then select Media then Source. Do a long press on BT Audio, and you should get a list of recent phones (perhaps just up to the last two), with a tickbox option by the one you wish to stream from.

Classified on ebay, providing the car isn't worth too much (simply because people tend to buy more expensive cars from dealers where they can finance it through a variety of ways). I've done this several times without any problems. If the car is worth a fair bit, then trade in but negotiate very hard focusing on the cost to change.

Unless you have got exceptionally good hearing, that means the tracks have been over-compressed in conversion to mp3 or similar. Have you tried ripping a track at the highest possible bit rate and then comparing?

This went when the Yeti facelift was introduced. A high capacity SD card will take much more than the contents of 5 CDs, even with minimal compression.

Narrower? No. Yeti width including mirrors: 1956 mm XC60 width including mirrors: 2117 mm A Yeti fits in my garage. No way does either the old or the new XC60 fit. Enjoy the new car!

You could probably postpone the brake fluid change and get it done with the MOT at 3 years. Brake fluid servicing is primarily time dependent. However, the Haldex is distance dependent so would be sensible to do assuming the distance recommended for yours is 40k. If you only run your air-conditioning intermittently, it might be worth getting that recharged, especially if you noticed being less effective in the summer.

My view on this is slightly controversial, but unless there is auxiliary heating of the coolant, the quickest way to get the cabin to a desired warm temperature in cold weather is to turn the system right off until the engine coolant temperature is nearly up to the operating 90 deg or so, then turn it back on. It then has enough capacity to blast out heat. However, the quickest way of getting warmth (as opposed to a desired temperature) is to keep the system off until there is movement in the coolant temperature gauge. There is no point turning the climate control dials up to a high temperature then down again - the system will only stop putting out maximum heat as the set-point (i.e., the temperature set on the dial) is reached.

If you are keen to source from the UK, then maybe best to call or email one of the dealerships that supplies parts such as skodaparts.com?

If that's all you want to do, you could buy and OBD device and make the changes yourself using the Carista app. It worked for me with a Bluetooth OBD device and Carista on an Android phone. For Apple devices, if I recall correctly, you need a WiFi OBD device.

If I have understood correctly, Michelin Cross Climates are made from a summer tyre compound with a tread that can deal with snow, hence qualifying for the snowflake symbol Goodyear Vector 4Seasons are made from an 'all-weather' compound, so in theory could be marginally better at lower temperatures. Manufacturer's descriptions are not directly comparable, and even independent comparative tests may not be particularly helpful unless for your precise make, model and type, since there are so many factors at play.

Yes, the change was mid 2015 when they introduced the Euro 6 diesels at the same time if I remember correctly. Confusingly, this was a little after the facelift model was introduced, so you can find both Elegance and SE L face lifted models.

SE L replaced Elegance. They've virtually identical.

We are taking the unusual approach of running summers in summer, and Cross Climates in winter. Why? Our previous full winter tyres were coming to the end of their useful life, but where we live, snow happens every 2-3 years, when summer tyres become scarily useless on our untreated minor roads. Much more likely in winter months are frosty or wet conditions with a journey to work at -3 to +5 degrees C, but a journey home at +5 to +12 degrees C. Cross Climates just seemed to make more sense for these conditions. However, our summer tyres still have years of tread left in them, barring punctures, so we use them in the warmer months.

I used to experience this problem on occasion when I had a 1.2 TSI DSG. It's caused by a combination of the relatively little low down torque of the petrol turbo in combination with the gearbox being in the 'wrong' gear for what you are about to do (usually accelerating after coasting to low speed but not actually stopping, hence the box has not dropped into first gear). It happened reasonably predictably (i.e., at the same roundabouts) and my solution was simply to pop it into sports mode just before the roundabout, and back into normal drive shortly after. This made no discernable difference to economy. To those with TDI DSG's, the same effect is there but hardly noticeable because of the much greater torque of the diesel.

When we had a 1.2 TSI DSG, the wheels would spin quite easily if much steering lock was applied, even on a dry road. This was with the factory supplied tyres. In a straight line, it was much harder to get them to spin. Over several cars with DSG boxes (6 and 7 speed), I have always found that they reward delicate footwork on the accelerator with a high level of predictability: a gentle press until the clutch has engaged, then a slightly deeper press for the required level of acceleration. Without that first gentle press, it seems the gearbox engages the clutch more aggressively, and the wheel-spin situation is much more likely.

I changed from 3 to 4 using Carista. Had to factory reset the whole MFD, but it worked thereafter.

I think it's an interesting comparison, though. Why should we be restricted to staying in exactly the same "class" or "price bracket"? Some of us don't buy cars like that. For instance, when I bought my first Yeti, I test drove it against an Audi A1, since they both happened to meet my criteria of "something interesting that fits in my garage". And it was worth it for the expression on the Audi saleswoman's face.