OzFabia

There are alloys available that have removable metal inserts, which you could paint the right shade of green.

Yes, it seems like the water pump going is a given. I also had the clutch pack replaced (although it seemed fine to me). Currently on 58,000 km, which is about 36,000 miles.

Is it still under warranty? Scratch that: it's been CTHE since 2013, hasn't it? You've done well to get them to come to the party.

OT, but has anyone had the surface of the OEM armrest start peeling? It's as if there is some clear plastic seal over the plastic lower part. Any ideas on how to fix or make it look better (not inclined to buy a new one for a basic cosmetic problem)?

I've had the odd strange reaction when I have been just pottering around (short journeys, no hard acceleration etc) for a while. If I then go for it, there's a slight delay, and then a big cloud of soot puffs out before the car flies as it should. It's as if the exhaust system is so full of soot, it's a bit choked until cleared in a hurry. Lesson for this: regular use of the car's potential is a must. :devil:

I suppose you could also let the car sit idling for a long time... :D

To be honest, I think you're the first person who has been able to find them to buy.... Wouldn't stickers have an obvious backing paper?

I thought CV joints were usually noticeable when turning...? I don't suppose it could be the supercharger engaging, and you're hearing it on the right side because that's the side you're on? I've started noticing the click more of late because it's hot, and I tend to drive with the RHS window open.

Big plans.... I would still keep an eye on the oil level - the fixes are not always 100%. It's not unusual for these cars to use a little oil, even when they are good ones - especially if you do lots of short trips.

Something might have got bent. It was VERY hard to remove in the first place.

I'll put this in here to save starting a new topic... I'm having trouble with the low beam bulb staying in the holder next to the battery (furthest to the left of the car). By this, I mean the bulb is properly connected to the bit that holds the wires, but won't stay inside the headlight fitting of the car. Either there's a problem with the fitting, or because of the restricted room I can't get the insertion correct ( ). What ends up happening is the bulb works its way out of the hole and rolls around as the car hits bumps - the beam tends to point downward more than it should, except that when I hit a bump the beam "bounces". Either way, it's obviously not shining where it should. I've had numerous goes at getting the bulb in place, but it eventually comes loose again, and maybe all of the attempts to screw it back in again is worsening the situation. So, my question: does anyone have any ideas on a solution? Obviously I can't do something too permanent, as I will want to get it out to change the bulb at some stage. I was thinking something like a bit of electrical tape around the plastic part of the connector, to make it a little bigger and less likely to shift?

I would agree the Quantum Lomg Life stuff is useless, especially if you do shorter trips. In fact, it's ironic that they call it "long life" as you have no chance of most of it getting old, because you are constantly topping it up...

I've had to top up since. Looks like I'm back to around 1L/5000km. I'm not sure if it's the hot weather, but the car always seems to start using a little more oil after the oil is a few thousand kilometres old. It might try George's 5W/40 spec next time, just for comparison.

It's about 650ml from top to bottom of the cross-hatched section of the dipstick - at least, on mine it is. The science of dipstick reading is one of the many mysteries these motors have, and probably not the biggest of those mysteries.

Is this what you mean by "smooth grill trims"? http://www.superskoda.com/Skoda/FABIA-II/Fabia-II-10-12-Facelift-winter-grille-cover-kit-UP-DOWN-special-price

I had a slight, high pitched sound - only noticeable when very familiar with the engine.

I've got the Whiteline on mine, mainly because it's cheaper than the H&R here (Australian company). It's adjustable, but it does creak a bit when flexing, especially since the Bilstein shocks went in. Not sure if I should go firmer or looser, as it's currently in the middle setting. I believe the H&R is not adjustable, but comes with a thicker bar as standard. Then again, the independent VW mechanic who serviced my car last didn't like the Whiteline design because of the way it loops - I suppose it's intended for the older platform Polo originally. There you go: I've probably talked you into the H&R! To be honest, they will both do a similar job, and make an amazing difference in these cars. Choose the one that best fits your budget.

It's German, and yes 5W/30.http://www.liqui-moly.com/liquimoly/produktdb.nsf/id/en_3706.html?OpenDocument&land=GB

I tried Liqui Moly TopTec 4200 (504/507) at my last service, and after 2300km I haven't had to put any top ups in. Prior to that the consumption had increased to 1L/2000km after initially showing great promise straight after the new jets were installed. I believe that Quantum Long Life was installed at the previous service, however, and George may be onto something in not rating it very highly.

Been looking into this, since I haven't been driving the car for a few months until recently. There seems to be a much rougher idle when the temperature gauge reads between 10 and 19 degrees Celsius. 9.5 no problem; 20 degrees no problem. I've seen the fuel use sitting over 3L/hour momentarily when first starting up when it's 10-19 degrees. Can't think of any good reason why, but it seems this is the case with mine, especially now that winter is in the rear view mirror...

The answer was 3 hours in this case....

Looks like my water pump is gone. Coolant disappearing, sort of faint rhythmical whooshing sound, that strange ticking mentioned above... Any idea how long it takes to replace, and how much the part might be? I have an hourly rate, and I know how to multiply by two to get the Australian rip-off markup...

There's the grille surround info: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/203496-monte-carlo-grill-mod-fitted/ . The top part is easy to remove; the bottom part is very difficult - it might be easier to get a new one than try to reuse the existing one. As for the lights, I can't help you other than to suggest you use paint that can take the heat.

I believe the B12 kit is B8 shocks with Eibach springs.

Might have to try this. I've had the jets and breather mod (mark 2) done, and the oil use went right down to something like 1L per 8000km (from 1L per 3500km). Now it's gone up again, though I notice it's been higher since last year's service, when apparently the dealer put in Quantum Long Life oil. My wife managed to use 0.8L in 450km over a few months when I wasn't able to drive the car, mostly in short trips, though!! I've found an independent VW mechanic who says he uses LiquiMoly where possible, so I might him and that oil a try. What are you defining as "thrashed it stupid", George?