Hi,

I Own a 1996 Felicia 1.3 Glxi

since Monday, it started to shut off when it have to go idle, or instead it get too high.

I've tried to clean up the carburetor whit carbu-cleaner and tried to adjust the accelerator cable but it's been all helpless.

I've noticed that a little gate in the carburetor before was closed and now it persist to be open, I Moved to the close position and seem to work OK but (as said before) it persists to get open again....

What could it be?

sounds like the throttle body needs re-aligning with the diagnostics gear

Throttle body not a carb, your car is injection. But like Tom says needs alignment.

thanks for your (so Fast) answer,

any idea of how can I do It?

Ps.: it is not fuel injection. as long as I know

sounds like the throttle body needs re-aligning with the diagnostics gear

thanks Lummox,

however I don´t think it is fuel injection.

do you have any idea of how to align the TB?

Ps.: now (since the problem began) I hear a weird sound, like a whistling.

Throttle body not a carb, your car is injection. But like Tom says needs alignment.

It will be fuel injection, they dont as far as I know make a carbed Felicia, might be wrong could you take a picture? Being a 1996 car it would be running a cat and you cant run carbs and cats together.

It will be fuel injection, they dont as far as I know make a carbed Felicia, might be wrong could you take a picture? Being a 1996 car it would be running a cat and you cant run carbs and cats together.

I am currently eating a large helping of humble pie. Today I learned they did make a carbed Felicia.

If its racing way i'd say may have an air leak? Have you tried adjusting the idle screw at all?

Would I be right in saying your car is LHD? If so that might well explain it.

I don't understand!! I have never seen a carb felicia and how does it work with catalyst?

Has this had a transplant or is it an import or something?

If wikipedia - German version - is to be trusted, the earlier Fellies sold on the East European market had a 1.3 58 BHP carb engine.

And carbs and cats can go together - I should know, I drove a Nissan Micra K10 1992 for 15 years, it had a carb and a cat. There were some electronically controlled valves on the carb. though.

Cats came onto the US market already in 1975 and there were not many injection engines around then.

Well, you are all as surprised as I was when I bought it, but after seen another ones (many of them) I understood that they did it.

My surprise wasn't because of a knowledge of Felicia or Skoda Cars (this is my first car) but because I've seen cars all my life and I know that cars much older than mine are already fuel injection.

the only explanation i find is that is a cheap version. there are other details:

- door glasses are manual

- power steering is not hydraulic (is what they call Semi-hydraulic)

so first: Lummox what do you mean By LHD?

and : where should I find that "idle screw"? or better question : what should it look like? (thinking that in fact you have never seen a felicia carburetor before :()

Would I be right in saying your car is LHD? If so that might well explain it.

The flap you have the arrow pointing to in your photo , looks as if it is the choke flap ?

Do you have a manual choke in the car you have to pull out to start or is it automatic choke ?

You say the flap is open ? It should be when the car is at running temperature ?

It should be closed when the engine is cold and warming up ?

If you say that when you close the flap the car runs better , then all you are doing is making it run richer , which sounds like Lummox said that you must have an air leak.

Check all the pipes connected to the carb and worse case scenario could be a blocked jet or leaking inlet manifold gasket possibly ?

Not sure if this helps you at all ?

thanks for your answer,

the choke out to be automatic because there's no manual choke.

I'll check then all pipes or the "idle screw" (is there is such a thing)

but, after all, I'd like to get a service manual to be sure of what I'm doing.

were checking some on Ebay but they are all on UK and I'm not aware if they ship it here (Dominican Republic) or a Miami Address I could use (in the worse case)

The flap you have the arrow pointing to in your photo , looks as if it is the choke flap ?

Do you have a manual choke in the car you have to pull out to start or is it automatic choke ?

You say the flap is open ? It should be when the car is at running temperature ?

It should be closed when the engine is cold and warming up ?

If you say that when you close the flap the car runs better , then all you are doing is making it run richer , which sounds like Lummox said that you must have an air leak.

Check all the pipes connected to the carb and worse case scenario could be a blocked jet or leaking inlet manifold gasket possibly ?

Not sure if this helps you at all ?

On pic No. 3 I can see an electric wire and socket on the right side of the carb which makes me think that there is some kind of electronically controlled valve (connected to the lambda sensor?). Could be worth checking sockets/pins so that they are clean and the connection is good. Otherwise it may of course affect idling.

Air leak: you could try spray a little "Easy Start" or similar on tubes/rubber hoses connected to the carb. If you have an air leak the idling revs will go up.

Unless i'm much mistaken thats a wax choke on the left hand side with two coolant pipes going to it.

If that is you can bet your boll0cks to a barn dance thats seized up and holding the choke on.

Oh and LHD means Left Hand Drive, I only ask as the battery is on the other side to usual UK RHD vehicles.

Yes it is Left Handed, I live in Dominican Republic, The Caribbean, (an island in Central America) here we drive at the Right Side of the street and the driver goes to the left.

I, would like to do a deep clean of the whole engine, carburetor and all the pipes, and specially to that part you mention, because it have a little rust, and residues of coolant. but first of all it must be on Saturday afternoon or on Sunday (I have to work till then). And second, I would like to have in hand some service manual or a piece of it that describe mayor details about the carburetor, cables and pipes.

Unless i'm much mistaken thats a wax choke on the left hand side with two coolant pipes going to it.

If that is you can bet your boll0cks to a barn dance thats seized up and holding the choke on.

Oh and LHD means Left Hand Drive, I only ask as the battery is on the other side to usual UK RHD vehicles.

:)The carb is a Jikov copy of the Pierburg 2E carb, which was fitted to many Vauxhalls, VW's ect. They are a pretty complicated carb, and suffer with a lot of auto choke problems. The vacuum operated choke pull down unit is a common cause of them. Also check the rubber mounting between carb and inlet manifolfd for leaks, and ensure the carb earth connection is sound.

Try googling Pierburg 2E and you'll find a lot of helpful advise.

Unless i'm much mistaken thats a wax choke on the left hand side with two coolant pipes going to it.

If that is you can bet your boll0cks to a barn dance thats seized up and holding the choke on.

Oh and LHD means Left Hand Drive, I only ask as the battery is on the other side to usual UK RHD vehicles.

If that's a copy of a pierburg carb as suggested, then either as you say, the waxstat or the 2-point/3-point unit is holding the throttle open. If it's intermittent it's the 3/2 point unit- the wires to it fracture with age. Very common on Mk2 Golf/Scirocco. I can't see it in the picture, but a 2e2 woulkd have one. It blsts the throttle open when starting, and controls overrun fuel cut-off.

Get a Haynes carb book.

Also, PM me your email address: I have some info on the 2e2.

Carbs with a cat are unusual, but also crop up on Minis and Ladas, and (IIRC) foreign-model Golfs. The 2e2 is indeed a complex beast, but set up properly, they work.

I also own 1998 1.3 43kw Felicia, it is LHD and has carb but no cat. Most of the Fellys which were sold here in Estonia are like mine.

I was thinking it looked like a Solex rather than a Pierburg, but either way, is there a Weber importer in Dominica? I had issues with a Solex (on an Opel Ascona), and the easiest and cheapest fix was a Weber replacement kit!

Hi all,

thanks for your answers and interest in this subject.

Well, yesterday I spend almost 7 hours working on this.

Unmounted the carburetor and washed it all over with gasoline, replaced some of the ground cables with new ones, pushed some air into the carburetor pipes and cleaned the rubber pipes.

I've noticed that one of the outlets down the carburetor had residues of something like oil (not oil properly but that usual mixture of oil and dust) while the other one was reasonably clean.

Found various adjustable screws, but I'm not sure what are they all for, the simple logic lead me to the one beside the accelerator's cable .

I got it all mounted back, and adjusted the "Idle Screw" and it's working pretty much better. It doesn't shut off when I leave the accelerator or when I clutch. In fact, I can now unplug the accelerator cable from the carb and it keeps running.

But there are still some Issues ::(

- I still hear that annoying whistling (I'm confused, cause I'm not sure if it was there before and now I noticed because of this problem).

- I've run it last night and today till now, and in some occasions the RPM keeps to high, I clutched, accelerated a little and then it goes back down.

- there is a plastic part that I think is supposed to be fixed to the carb, and in can freely move back and forward (but I have no idea of what it really is)

Unfortunately, I was too focussed on what I was doing, and didn't think about taking some pictures of it disarmed to post them here. but Ill post some of it already mounted later today.

If you can post the exact make and model of the carb, that will help us with exactly what can go wrong with it. A common fault with the Pierburgs back in the day was issues with the auto choke, and one popular solution (so popular you could buy kits for most common applications) was to convert the carb to manual choke.

Hello.I have a Favorit 135 LE.It is using the same type of carb.If you still need help,pls reply.

andreiu[/color]']Hello.I have a Favorit 135 LE.It is using the same type of carb.If you still need help,pls reply.

i have the same carburetor, but with a different problem

the idle adjustment screw; there is a whistling noise coming from the carburetor, and i have to turn the idle mix adjustment screw 6 to 7 turns (from totally close) to get decent idle, instead of the supposed 3 to 4 if i put a Q-tip on the air then i have to close the iddle mix adjustment screw and the whistling goes away so i'm guessing that is not ok

the load system; there is a vacuum that handle a diafram on the side of the carburetor (on top) that is now constant high vacuum, so the diafram is activated always i tested the port and it give me the same inches of mercury as the one in front that is used to activate the air conditioner (the one that accelerates the car when you turn on the AC) is this correct, how ca i check if its activating

the second throttle plate; is activated also by a vacuum, but it never opens, i check the vacuum port and i get a reading out of it no matter how much i accelerate the car i don't want to spray the port with carb cleaner to un-clog it in case there is a rubber diafram activating it on the inside linked to the load system.

The float; how do i check if its working, there is no window to check the level

i greatly apreciate the help since i'm new with the Jikov, and i want to get the torque and acceleration i expect from a 1.3 engine

my engine says 135 L, is it the 40, 43, or 45 kw version ? i get confused

Edited 20 January, 200917 yr by Cepheuz