Apart from the pads themselves and a wind back tool, is anything else needed to do the rear pads on an Octy II?

Looking at about £20 for a set of rear pads so it will save £80 worth of labour.

Do the discs usually last a couple of sets of pads or are they usually worn after one set and also where is the best point to jack the rear of the car with a trolly jack and to put the axle stands.

Thanks in advance.

The pads are the only things in need of replacing on the standard Octavia. You can hack it from behind, lifting from the suspension arms, if you have a long jack, or just in front of the real wheels with a standard one.

So no springs/screws etc?

Just wondering if they are held in by screw or spring clip and the size of any tools I'll need.

It was a while since when I changed mine, but I think there are just two regular hex bolts to undo in order to remove the calliper and the spent pads.

I changed both the front and rear while I was at it, and I remember either or both of the pad sets came with new bolts and locking pins. And only basic tools were used.

Excellent. Will have to have a look at a few things this evening.

Ta

Copperslip for the back of the pads and a freedom membership :P

Yes remember to copperslip them.Don,t want any squeelie pads after:thumbup:

If you use standard pads that have the sticky back on them DONT copperslip them.

15mm and 13mm spanners are required to change the rear pads and a piston wind back tool.

do you really need the piston wind back tool? a piece of wood acting as a lever would push the piston back in if need be.

It needs to be twisted as well as pushed back so yes.

Otherwise you fook it up.

do you really need the piston wind back tool? a piece of wood acting as a lever would push the piston back in if need be.

If you do that, you risk destroying the automatic adjuster in the brake caliper.

I didn't see anybody do anything to the new pads, and for the first 1k miles after the pad change I was embarrassed by how loud it could squeal under light braking. It even scared people off pedestrian crossings.

Kinda like having a 3rd horn.

Just remember that the handbrake may feel poor until the

pads are the same profile as the disc face

Hi, would this kit fit ?

https://www.portlandtools.co.uk/Automotive_tools/brakes/BRAKE_CALIPER_PISTON_REWIND_TOOLS_1734.html

Just remember that the handbrake may feel poor until the

pads are the same profile as the disc face

Also it will take a lot longer to bed them in that the front pads as the rears are subject to a lot less wear.

Mark, don't copperslip the bolts holding the calliper on though. If anything, these should really have Loctite or similar on them. They are not bolts you want to be working loose over time.

Thanks Guys, especially Ross for the spanner sizes

What has happened to the thanks button actually?:confused:

I have the winding tool and spanners and some threadlock so it doesn't sound like a hard one. The dealer has offered me an extremely good price on supply or supply & fit of pads so I'll be using the genuine pads

As for the freedom membership comment, if I had £12 spare I'd not even consider fitting myself as time and effort outweigh the small labour cost.

Is it worth putting a small amount of copper slip on the small parts of the pads where they locate on the slides or is this again not required on an Octy II.

I always used to rely on the shims on the rear and just put a small amount of slip on the slides after cleaning it all up on other cars.

Dont take it personally Cheeze, I was just messin

Can anyone point me in the right direction of where to buy a winding tool for the octy ii, many thanks.

Halfords or GSF or most motor factors will sell them.

I once saw that the VAG tool was cheaper but no idea if this is true.

The usual brand is Laser and it's about £10-15

thanks Monkhai

Any idea why the rears needs a windback tool but the fronts don't? Is it because rears are also the handbrake?

Any idea why the rears needs a windback tool but the fronts don't? Is it because rears are also the handbrake?

Yes! The rear pistons wind themselves out over time so that the travel in your handbrake (and therefore its efficacy) remains constant even when the pads are getting thinner.

Yes! The rear pistons wind themselves out over time so that the travel in your handbrake (and therefore its efficacy) remains constant even when the pads are getting thinner.

Gaff, the only cars that I know having hand braked fronts are Alfa's and SAAB's

Yes! The rear pistons wind themselves out over time so that the travel in your handbrake (and therefore its efficacy) remains constant even when the pads are getting thinner.

So what happens to the fronts? The gap gets wider as they wear, so you have to press the pedal further, or does the fluid sort this out.